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Kenmore 10689599100 ice cube maker

Kenmore 10689599100 ice cube maker Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 10689599100 ice cube maker, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 10689599100 Ice Cube Maker

  • Ice Maker Water Tubing for Kenmore 10689599100 - Part WPW10217922

    Evaporator, grid, and water parts diagram

    Tube

    Part #W10218065

    Replaced by #WPW10217922

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  • Refrigerator Door Insulation, 2-piece for Kenmore 10689599100 - Part 876370

    Optional parts (not included) diagram

    Refrigerator Door Insulation, 2-piece

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  • Refrigerator Compressor Overload And Start Relay Cover for Kenmore 10689599100 - Part WP2162358

    Unit parts diagram

    Terminal Cover

    Part #W10364944

    Replaced by #WP2162358

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  • Refrigerator Door Insulation, 2-piece for Kenmore 10689599100 - Part 876370

    Optional parts (not included) diagram

    Insulation

    Part #978941

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  • Dishwasher Leveling Leg Kit for Kenmore 10689599100 - Part 8193716

    Cabinet, door and liner parts diagram

    Lever Leg

    Part #3374849

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  • Refrigerator Screw for Kenmore 10689599100 - Part WP488163

    Evaporator, grid, and water parts diagram

    Screw

    Part #488208

    Replaced by #WP488163

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  • Refrigerator Screw for Kenmore 10689599100 - Part WP8281196

    Unit parts diagram

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #8281196

    Replaced by #WP8281196

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  • Refrigerator Hose for Kenmore 10689599100 - Part W11033204

    Evaporator, grid, and water parts diagram

    Water Slide Tube

    Part #W10635836

    Replaced by #W11033204

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  • Ice Maker Compressor Start Relay for Kenmore 10689599100 - Part W11098401

    Unit parts diagram

    Relay-starti

    Part #W10482495

    Replaced by #W11098401

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  • Refrigerator Door Insulation, 2-piece for Kenmore 10689599100 - Part 876370

    Optional parts (not included) diagram

    Insul - 16pk

    Part #876305

    Replaced by #876370

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Kenmore Ice Cube Maker 10689599100 FAQs

For Kenmore model 10689599100 (a freestanding ice maker), the most reliable reset is a simple power reset: turn the unit off with the ON/OFF button, then unplug it for 5 to 10 minutes and plug it back in. Use the 10689599100 owner's manual for the exact control steps.

Quick reset steps (safe, no tools)
  • Press ON/OFF to stop ice maker operation (this does not remove power from the unit).
  • Unplug the ice maker from the grounded outlet.
  • Wait 5 to 10 minutes.
  • Plug the unit back in.
  • Press ON/OFF to restart ice production.
  • Allow up to 24 hours for the first full batch; discard the first 2 batches.
If it still will not run after the reset

These checks solve most “won’t operate” complaints after a reset:

  • Confirm the unit is plugged into a grounded 3-prong outlet.
  • Check the home breaker or fuse.
  • Make sure the control is turned on (ON/OFF).
  • Verify room temperature is above 55°F; colder rooms can stop production.
  • If your unit has a drain pump and there is water in the bin, check the drain hose for kinks or pinches.
What to expect after a reset
Situation What you’ll see What it means
First start or restart Slower output at first Normal; production stabilizes over time
Warm room or warm water Less ice in 24 hours Higher temps reduce production
Bin gets full Unit shuts off automatically Normal; restarts when ice is needed
Why it matters

A power reset clears minor control glitches and restarts the normal freeze, release, and cut cycle (ice sheet releases onto the cutter grid, minerals drain, then fresh water refills). If ice is thin or stops, issues like a loose drain cap, restricted water flow, or a failing component can mimic a “needs reset” symptom.

If you suspect restricted water flow or off-tasting ice, replacing the water filter F2WC9I1 is a common first fix.

Last updated: February 2026

For Kenmore model 10689599100, plan on up to 24 hours to produce the first batch of ice after startup; the unit also runs an initial rinsing cycle of about 5 minutes before it begins making ice. For best taste, discard the first 2 batches. See the 10689599100 owner's manual.

What to expect after you turn it on
  • The water pan fills and the ice maker rinses itself first (about 5 minutes).
  • Initial ice production is slower while the system stabilizes.
  • The ice level sensor in the bin monitors ice level and stops and restarts production as needed.
  • Room temperature and incoming water temperature directly affect how fast ice is produced.
  • The storage bin is not refrigerated, so some melting is normal.
Typical timing guide
Situation What you will see Typical time
First startup after install or long shutdown Rinse, then first ice cycles begin Up to 24 hours for first batch
Bin is low or empty Normal cycling at preset temperatures Varies with conditions
High demand Faster production using feature Up to 24 hours of boosted output
Speeding up ice production (the right way)
  • Turn on Acceler-Ice when you need more ice in the next day.
  • Keep the door closed; the door ajar alarm sounds after 5 minutes open.
  • Make sure the water supply valve is fully open and the supply line is not kinked.
  • Replace the water filter when indicated; a restricted filter can reduce fill and production (example: water filter F2WC9I1).
  • Clean the ice maker when the “Cleaning Needed” light comes on or about every 9 months.
Why it matters

Startup timing is different from day-to-day production. Knowing the 24-hour first-batch window helps prevent unnecessary part replacements (like the recirculation pump or control board) when the unit is actually operating normally.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Kenmore ice maker model 10689599100 runs but makes no ice, the most common causes are the control being turned off, the water supply being shut off or restricted, or a drain issue that empties the water pan (loose drain cap, clogged drain tube, or kinked drain line). See the 10689599100 owner's manual for the model-specific checks.

Quick checks we recommend first
  • Confirm the unit is ON (ON/OFF button); the button does not disconnect power.
  • Allow 24 hours for the first batch after startup; discard the first 2 batches.
  • Verify the water supply valve is fully open and the supply line is not kinked.
  • Tighten the drain cap if you see thin ice or no ice.
  • Clean the drain tube and make sure the drain line is not kinked.
  • If room temperature is high, expect reduced production (the bin is not refrigerated, so some melting is normal).
Water supply and filtration issues

Low flow or poor water quality can stop or slow ice production.

What you notice Likely cause What to do
No ice at all Water supply off or not connected Turn on water, confirm connection
Thin ice or no ice Drain cap loose, water pan emptying Tighten drain cap, check for leaks
Slow production Warm room or warm incoming water Improve ventilation, lower room temp
Off-taste, scale, clumping Mineral content, scale buildup Clean the system; consider filtration

If your unit uses a replaceable filter and you have low flow or heavy scale, replacing the water filter F2WC9I1 can help restore consistent water delivery.

When it points to a component problem

If water supply and drain checks are good but you still get no ice, focus on the ice-making system steps: water fill, freezing on the evaporator, release, and cutting on the grid.

  • No fill or inconsistent fill: check the water fill system and sensor
  • Ice sheet forms but does not cut: inspect the cutter grid
  • Unit runs but cycles incorrectly: suspect the electronic control

Model-matched parts commonly involved include the ice maker electronic control board W11034363 and the cutter grid W10919199.

Why it matters

This model drains mineral-heavy water after each freeze cycle and refills with fresh water. If the drain system is restricted or the water pan is being emptied unintentionally, the machine can run normally but never keep enough water in the system to make a full ice sheet.

Last updated: February 2026

Kenmore model 10689599100 is a freestanding ice maker, not a refrigerator ice maker module. To remove it (move it out for service or replacement), we shut the unit off, disconnect power and water, drain the water pan, then disconnect the water line so the cabinet can be moved safely. See the step-by-step procedure in the 10689599100 owner's manual.

Safety steps before you move the unit
  • Press the ON/OFF button or set the selector switch to OFF.
  • Unplug the ice maker (or disconnect power at the breaker).
  • Shut off the water supply to the ice maker.
  • Wait 5 to 10 minutes for ice to drop into the bin; remove all ice.
  • Unscrew the drain cap in the bottom of the water pan (inside the bin) and drain completely.
  • Reinstall the drain cap securely.
How to disconnect and remove the freestanding ice maker
  1. Pull the ice maker forward enough to access the rear connections.
  2. Disconnect the water supply line at the ice maker connection (use two wrenches to protect the tubing and fitting).
  3. If you need access to the water valve area, remove the lower access panel screws and pull the panel forward.
  4. Move the unit out for service.
Tools and supplies we typically use
  • Two adjustable wrenches (or two open-end wrenches)
  • Towel or shallow pan (for water from the line and drain)
  • Work gloves
  • Flashlight
Quick checklist
What to disconnect Where Why it matters
Power Plug or breaker Prevents electrical shock
Water supply Shutoff valve Prevents leaks and flooding
Drain cap Water pan inside bin Prevents spills when moving
Water supply line Rear connection Lets you move the unit safely
Why it matters

Draining the water pan and disconnecting the water line prevents leaks, protects the compression fitting and tubing, and helps avoid thin ice or no-ice problems after reassembly if the drain cap is left loose.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your freestanding ice makers

Choose a symptom to see related ice maker repairs.

Main causes: water supply problems, control board failure, weak recirculation pump, clogged water distributer, faulty cu…

Main causes: dirty evaporator plate, untreated water supply, food items being stored in ice storage bin…

Main causes: wiring failure, broken cutting grid, faulty electronic control board…

Main causes: bad bin thermistor, condenser fan failure, faulty control board…

Main causes: failing compressor, bad condenser fan motor, faulty drain pump, bad recirculation pump, water supply proble…

Main causes: cracked water supply line, leaky drain line, broken drain pump, cracked water reservoir, leaky ice bin…

Main causes: bad electronic control board, water supply problems, faulty recirculation pump, sealed system failure, brok…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, faulty bin thermistor, bad eva…

Most common repair guides to help fix your freestanding ice makers

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your ice maker.

How to replace a freestanding ice maker cutter grid

How to replace a freestanding ice maker cutter grid

When the cutting grid is broken, ice cubes don’t drop into the ice bin. Use the steps in this repair guide to replace a…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to replace a freestanding ice maker recirculation pump

How to replace a freestanding ice maker recirculation pump

If your ice maker isn’t making ice, the pump could be the problem. Here’s how to replace it. …

Repair time and Difficulty

 45 minutes or less
How to replace a freestanding ice maker electronic control board

How to replace a freestanding ice maker electronic control board

When the electronic control board won’t activate the ice maker components, follow these steps to install a new one.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 45 minutes or less

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Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your ice maker.

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