July 20, 2013

How to replace a freestanding ice maker electronic control board

By Lyle Weischwill
How to replace a freestanding ice maker electronic control board

This DIY repair guide explains how to replace the electronic control board in a freestanding ice maker. The electronic control board is the "brains" of the ice maker, activating components such as the compressor, water inlet valve and pumps as needed to make ice. When the electronic control board stops working, the ice maker won't recirculate water or make ice.

Because problems with parts other than the electronic control board can have the same symptoms, have a service technician test the electronic control board to confirm that it's the cause. If the control board isn't working, replace it with the manufacturer-approved replacement part.

This repair procedure works to replace the electronic control board in Kenmore, KitchenAid, Whirlpool, JennAir, GE and Maytag freestanding ice makers.

Quick links
Tools required
Phillips screwdriver
Stubby Phillips screwdriver
Socket wrench set or nut drivers
Work gloves
Shop rag or cloth
Repair difficulty
Time required
45 minutes or less
Repair difficulty
Time required
45 minutes or less

Instructions

  1. 01.

    Disconnect power

    Remove any ice that is in the storage bin of the ice maker and store it in a separate container during this repair.

    Cover the drain hole at the bottom of the ice storage bin with a cloth to prevent hardware from falling inside.

    Unplug the ice maker or shut off the house circuit breaker to disconnect electrical power.

  2. 02.

    Remove the cutter grid cover

    Open the ice maker and remove the screws from the bottom of the cutter grid cover.

    Pull the cutter grid cover out and set it aside.

    Remove the cutter grid cover screws.

    Remove the cutter grid cover screws.

    Remove the cutter grid cover.

    Remove the cutter grid cover.

  3. 03.

    Remove the cutter grid

    Remove the hex-head mounting screws from both sides of the cutter grid.

    Pull the cutter grid down slightly to access the cutter grid wire harness connection.

    Disconnect the cutter grid wire harness connector from the bottom of the control housing.

    Pull the cutter grid out of the ice maker.

    Remove the cutter grid mounting screws.

    Remove the cutter grid mounting screws.

    Unplug the cutter grid wire harness.

    Unplug the cutter grid wire harness.

    Remove the cutter grid.

    Remove the cutter grid.

  4. 04.

    Release the control housing

    Remove the 1/4-inch, hex-head mounting screws from the corners of the control housing.

    Lower the control housing, leaving the wires attached to the control components in the housing.

    Remove the screw from the control board housing.

    Remove the screw from the control board housing.

    Lower the control board housing.

    Lower the control board housing.

  5. 05.

    Remove the electronic control board

    Take a digital photo of the wires connected to the electronic control board so you can reconnect them correctly.

    Disconnect the wires from the electronic control board.

    Remove the mounting screws that secure the electronic control board in the control housing and remove the electronic control board.

    Take a digital photo of the control board wiring.

    Take a digital photo of the control board wiring.

    Disconnect the control board wires.

    Disconnect the control board wires.

    Remove the control board.

    Remove the control board.

  6. 06.

    Install the new electronic control board

    Position the new electronic control board in the housing and secure it with the mounting screws.

    Using your digital photo as a guide, reconnect the wires on the electronic control board.

  7. 07.

    Reinstall the control housing

    Position the control housing correctly in the ice bin and secure it with the mounting screws.

    Reinstall the control board housing.

    Reinstall the control board housing.

  8. 08.

    Reinstall the cutter grid and cutter grid cover

    Push the cutter grid into the ice maker and plug the cutter grid wire harness into the connector in the bottom of the control housing.

    Line up the mounting screw holes and reinstall the hex-head mounting screws that secure the cutting grid to the side walls inside the ice maker.

    Position the cutter grid cover in front of the cutter grid and secure it with the mounting screws.

    Push the cutter grid back in.

    Push the cutter grid back in.

    Plug in the cutter grid wire harness.

    Plug in the cutter grid wire harness.

    Reinstall the cutter grid mounting screws.

    Reinstall the cutter grid mounting screws.

    Reinstall the cutter grid cover.

    Reinstall the cutter grid cover.

  9. 09.

    Restore power

    Plug the ice maker back into the wall outlet or reset the house circuit breaker to restore power.

  10. 10.

    Fill the ice storage bin

    Remove the cloth that was used to cover the drain hole in the ice storage bin.

    Fill the ice bin with ice that was stored in a separate container during this repair.

Warning: Undertaking repairs to appliances can be hazardous. Use the proper tools and safety equipment noted in the guide and follow all instructions. Do not proceed until you are confident that you understand all of the steps and are capable of completing the repair. Some repairs should only be performed by a qualified technician.

Symptoms common to all freestanding ice makers

Choose a symptom to see related ice maker repairs.

Main causes: failing compressor, bad condenser fan motor, faulty drain pump, bad recirculation pump, water supply problems, bad water valve
Main causes: dirty evaporator plate, untreated water supply, food items being stored in ice storage bin
Main causes: water supply problems, control board failure, weak recirculation pump, clogged water distributer, faulty cutting grid
Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, faulty bin thermistor, bad evaporator thermistor
Main causes: bad bin thermistor, condenser fan failure, faulty control board
Main causes: wiring failure, broken cutting grid, faulty electronic control board
Main causes: bad electronic control board, water supply problems, faulty recirculation pump, sealed system failure, broken cutting grid
Main causes: cracked water supply line, leaky drain line, broken drain pump, cracked water reservoir, leaky ice bin

Repair guides common to all freestanding ice makers

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your ice maker.

How to replace a freestanding ice maker cutter grid

When the cutting grid is broken, ice cubes don’t drop into the ice bin. Use the steps in this repair guide to replace a broken cutter grid.

Repair difficulty
Time required
 15 minutes or less
How to replace a freestanding ice maker electronic control board

When the electronic control board won’t activate the ice maker components, follow these steps to install a new one.

Repair difficulty
Time required
 45 minutes or less
How to replace a freestanding ice maker recirculation pump

If your ice maker isn’t making ice, the pump could be the problem. Here’s how to replace it.

Repair difficulty
Time required
 45 minutes or less

Articles and videos common to all freestanding ice makers

Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your ice maker.

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