Owner’s manual
Error Codes
What is the bottom part of a refrigerator called?
On a Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator model 79578402801, the “bottom part” is most commonly the machine compartment area behind the base grille; it houses cooling-system components and airflow openings. Many owners also use “base grille” to describe the visible lower front cover.
- Base grille: the snap-on lower front grille you can remove for access and cleaning.
- Machine compartment: the space behind the base grille where key cooling components sit.
- Bottom panel / toe grille: informal terms for the base grille area.
- Drain pan area: the underside zone where defrost water can evaporate.
The exact layout varies by refrigerator design, but the lower section commonly relates to:
- Compressor and condenser heat-rejection area
- Condenser fan airflow path (on many models)
- Wiring and service access points
- Defrost drain routing toward a drain pan
| Term | What it refers to | What you can do with it |
|---|---|---|
| Base grille | The removable lower front cover | Remove it to access/clean and inspect |
| Machine compartment | Space behind the base grille | Service access for cooling components |
| Drain pan area | Under the cabinet near the bottom | Check for water, odors, or overflow |
We follow the steps shown in the 79578402801 owner’s manual:
- Grasp the grille with both hands
- Pull the grille toward yourself to remove
- To reinstall, align the clips and push until it snaps into place
Knowing the correct name helps you find the right instructions and parts, especially when you are cleaning, checking airflow, or troubleshooting issues like warm temperatures or water puddles.
Last updated: January 2026
Why is my Kenmore refrigerator leaking underneath?
Water under your Kenmore 79578402801 bottom-mount refrigerator is usually caused by defrost water not draining correctly into the drain pan, or by a water line connection that is seeping. We focus first on the defrost drain path and drain pan, then check the icemaker water line and tubing connections.
- Unplug the refrigerator and pull it out so you can inspect underneath.
- Look for water in or around the drain pan; during defrost, it is normal for water to run into the pan.
- Check for ice buildup on the freezer floor or water trails from the back wall; this often points to a restricted defrost drain.
- If the unit has an icemaker, confirm the water supply line and fittings are dry.
- Make sure the tubing is secured so it is not rubbing or vibrating against the cabinet.
| What you see | Most likely cause | Where to inspect first |
|---|---|---|
| Water appears after a defrost cycle, no obvious drip at the back | Defrost drain restriction or drain pan overflow | Drain pan and drain path |
| Slow drip at the rear lower area, especially near the water hookup | Water line or fitting seep | Water line connection and tubing |
| Ice on freezer bottom, then water later | Drain backed up and refreezing | Freezer drain opening and drain tube |
If you find the leak is coming from the drain path or water supply routing, these model-matched parts are often involved:
- Refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D (cracked, loose, or misrouted drain outlet)
- Refrigerator tubing MJU62070602 (pinholes, kinks, or a loose connection)
- Refrigerator clamp 4930JA3034A (tubing not secured, leading to rubbing or vibration)
Leaks underneath can lead to floor damage and can also indicate airflow or defrost-water management issues that affect cooling performance. Fixing the drain path or a small seep early prevents repeat puddles and ice buildup.
For model-specific access points and care steps, follow the 79578402801 owner's manual.
Last updated: January 2026
How to tell if a Kenmore refrigerator compressor is bad?
If your Kenmore refrigerator model 79578402801 is not cooling and you hear abnormal compressor-related noises or the unit runs constantly without reaching temperature, the compressor may be failing. First rule out normal “high-efficiency” run time and airflow issues using the 79578402801 owner's manual.
- Confirm the refrigerator has power and the controls are set correctly.
- Listen for the condenser fan and evaporator fan running; a failed fan can mimic compressor trouble.
- Clean dust from condenser coils and ensure airflow around the cabinet.
- Check that doors close fully and gaskets seal; warm air leaks can cause long run times.
- After a power interruption, allow time for temperatures to stabilize before diagnosing.
Some sounds and longer run times are normal on this model, but these symptoms are stronger indicators of compressor trouble:
- Refrigerator and freezer stay warm even though the unit runs for hours.
- Compressor is running but you do not feel normal cooling improvement over 12 to 24 hours.
- Repeated clicking (start attempts) followed by the compressor stopping.
- Circuit breaker trips when the compressor tries to start.
- Loud grinding or knocking from the compressor area (not normal fan noise).
| What you notice | Often normal | More likely a problem |
|---|---|---|
| Long run times | Warm room, frequent door openings, large food load | Runs nearly nonstop and never cools |
| Sounds | Clicking, gurgling, popping, high-pitched/pulsing | Repeated start-clicks, grinding/knocking |
| Cooling | Slow recovery after loading groceries | No recovery after 12 to 24 hours |
- Unplug the refrigerator for 5 minutes, then plug it back in to reset the control.
- Verify airflow: clear vents inside, clean coils, and confirm fans run.
- If cooling does not improve, have a technician test the compressor start components and sealed system.
- If the compressor is confirmed failed, the replacement for this model is the refrigerator compressor TCA37091209.
A weak compressor can look like a simple “not cold enough” complaint, but it is part of the sealed system. Confirming airflow, door sealing, and normal operating sounds first prevents unnecessary parts replacement and gets you to the right repair faster.
Last updated: January 2026
