Kenmore 10689553102 freestanding ice maker Parts

For Kenmore model 10689553102 (a freestanding ice maker), the most reliable “reset” is a power reset: turn the unit off, disconnect power for a few minutes, then restore power and let it restart its ice-making cycle. Use the steps and control locations shown in the 10689553102 owner's manual.

Quick reset steps (power reset)

• Turn the ice maker OFF using the power switch or control (if equipped).
• Unplug the ice maker (or switch the dedicated breaker OFF).
• Wait 3 to 5 minutes.
• Restore power and turn the unit ON.
• Allow 15 to 30 minutes to begin normal operation; a full harvest cycle can take longer.

If it still will not restart

These checks solve most “needs a reset” complaints on freestanding ice makers.

• Confirm the unit is getting power (outlet, breaker, cord fit).
• Make sure the water supply valve is fully open and the water line is not kinked.
• Replace a restricted water filter if your unit uses one (see water filter F2WC9I1).
• Clean dust from the condenser area so the compressor can cool properly.
• If you hear water movement issues or see poor circulation, inspect the ice maker recirculation pump W11542867.

What to expect after a reset

What you see	What it usually means	What to do
Unit powers on but no ice yet	Normal startup and cooling time	Wait; keep door closed as much as possible
Ice is small or hollow	Water flow restriction	Check filter, supply valve, inlet line
Unit runs but never harvests	Control or circulation issue	Check pump, then control diagnostics in the manual

Why it matters

A power reset clears minor control glitches and forces the ice maker to reinitialize its cooling and water-fill sequence. If the underlying issue is low water flow, a clogged filter, or a weak pump, the “reset” will only help briefly until the root cause is corrected.

Last updated: January 2026

If your Kenmore freestanding ice maker model 10689553102 runs but does not make ice, the most common causes are no water getting into the reservoir, weak water circulation over the evaporator plate, or a drain issue that prevents a proper freeze cycle. Use the checks below, then confirm model-specific steps in the 10689553102 owner's manual.

Quick checks we recommend first

• Make sure the unit is powered on and the ice-making mode is enabled.
• Confirm the water supply valve is fully open and the supply line is not kinked.
• Check that the water reservoir actually fills (not just the inlet line).
• Look for slow or no water movement over the evaporator plate (points to circulation problems).
• Verify the bin is seated correctly and not holding the unit in a “bin full” condition.

What the symptoms usually mean

What you see	What it points to	What to check next
Reservoir is empty	Water supply problem	Shutoff valve, inlet line, filter restriction
Reservoir is full but evaporator plate stays dry	No recirculation	Ice maker recirculation pump W11542867 and related tubing
Water is present but ice never releases or cycle seems off	Control or sensing issue	Ice maker electronic control board W11034363, wiring connections
Water enters but unit keeps draining or won’t hold water	Drain problem	Ice maker drain pump W11542868 and drain hose routing

Parts that commonly fix “runs but no ice”

• Ice maker recirculation pump W11542867: moves water from the reservoir across the evaporator plate.
• Water filter F2WC9I1: a restricted filter can reduce flow enough to stop ice production.
• Ice maker drain pump W11542868: if it runs when it should not, the reservoir may not stay filled.

Why it matters

This ice maker depends on steady water flow across the evaporator plate. If the reservoir is not filling, or the recirculation pump is not moving water, the plate stays dry and the unit cannot freeze a slab of ice to cut and harvest.

Last updated: January 2026

Yes, replacing the ice-making components is worth it when your Kenmore freestanding ice maker model 10689553102 still powers on, circulates water, and the cabinet is in good shape; targeted part replacement restores ice production for far less than replacing the whole unit.

Quick decision checklist (for a freestanding ice maker)

• The unit powers on and the interior fan or pump runs.
• The bin fills with water but ice production is slow or stopped.
• You see a single failed function (drain, recirculation, cutting, or control).
• There is no major sealed-system issue (no cooling at all, constant overheating).
• You can follow the diagnostic steps in the 10689553102 owner's manual.

What to check before you buy parts

Many “bad ice maker” symptoms come from water flow, drainage, or controls, not the entire machine.

• Replace a restricted filter if your unit uses one; low flow causes small cubes or no ice (see water filter F2WC9I1).
• Confirm the water supply valve is fully open and the inlet line is not kinked.
• If water is not recirculating over the evaporator plate, suspect the recirculation pump.
• If water will not drain during harvest, suspect the drain pump or a blocked drain path.
• If the unit has power but behaves erratically, suspect the electronic control board.

Common symptoms and the most likely repair path

Symptom	Most likely area	Typical next step
No water movement during freeze	Recirculation system	Inspect/replace recirculation pump
Standing water, won’t drain	Drain system	Clear drain, then test drain pump
Ice forms but won’t release/cut	Cutter grid or control	Inspect grid, then verify control outputs
Dead display or random operation	Controls/power	Check power, then control board and wiring

Why it matters

Freestanding ice makers are modular; replacing a single failed pump, grid, or control often fixes the problem quickly and avoids the cost and downtime of replacing the entire appliance.

Last updated: January 2026