What is a bottom mount refrigerator?
A bottom-mount refrigerator (also called a bottom freezer refrigerator) keeps the fresh-food section on top at eye level and puts the freezer compartment on the bottom. Your Kenmore 79577316600 is a bottom freezer design, which makes everyday refrigerated items easier to reach.
In a bottom-mount refrigerator, the compartments are arranged for convenience and airflow:
- Fresh foods (milk, produce, leftovers) are stored in the upper refrigerator section
- Frozen foods are stored in the lower freezer drawer/compartment
- Cold air circulates between sections to maintain set temperatures
- Many models use multi-airflow vents to move cold air through both compartments
For model-specific features and controls, use the 79577316600 owner's manual.
Bottom-mount units are popular because they reduce bending for the items you use most.
| Feature | Bottom-mount refrigerator | Top-freezer refrigerator |
|---|---|---|
| Fresh-food access | Higher, easier reach | Lower, more bending |
| Freezer access | Lower drawer | Upper door |
| Best for | Frequent fresh-food use | Frequent freezer use |
Because air must circulate between the freezer and refrigerator sections, blocked vents or poor door sealing can affect temperatures in both compartments. On the Kenmore 79577316600, proper airflow is a key part of keeping cooling consistent.
- Keep vents clear of food packages
- Avoid overpacking shelves and freezer bins
- Make sure doors close fully and seal all the way around
- Allow time for temperatures to stabilize after loading groceries
If you ever see an error code on the display, our Kenmore 795 model bottom freezer refrigerator error codes guide helps you match the code to likely causes and next steps.
Last updated: February 2026
What is the cubic foot of my Kenmore refrigerator model 79577316600?
The exact cubic-foot capacity for Kenmore model 795.77316600 is listed on the model’s specification information in the owner's manual. This manual covers the 795.7730 and 795.7731 series and is the right place to confirm the precise capacity for your specific color and configuration.
Use these steps to locate the cubic-foot rating for your 795.77316600:
- Open the owner's manual.
- Check the specifications section (often near the back) for “Capacity” or “Total capacity”.
- If the manual lists multiple versions (795.7730 vs 795.7731), match the one that aligns with your exact model label.
- Confirm your full model number from the ID label inside the fresh food compartment (commonly on the right-hand side).
- If you see separate values, note both refrigerator and freezer capacity and the total.
Kenmore 795-series bottom-mount refrigerators commonly fall into a mid-to-large capacity range. Use this as a planning estimate until you confirm the exact spec in the manual:
- Typical total capacity: about 20 to 25 cu. ft.
- Best for: family grocery loads, wider shelves, and a pull-out freezer drawer
- Space planning: allow extra room for door swing and airflow clearance
| What you need | Where to find it | Why it helps |
|---|---|---|
| Total capacity (cu. ft.) | Owner's manual specs | Confirms storage size for shopping and organization |
| Exact model from ID label | Inside refrigerator compartment | Ensures you match the correct spec line |
| Refrigerator vs freezer split | Manual specs | Helps plan bins, drawers, and frozen storage |
Cubic-foot capacity is the number you want when comparing storage space, choosing organizers, and estimating how much food the refrigerator can hold. It also helps when comparing similar Kenmore bottom-freezer models.
Last updated: February 2026
How to tell what model Kenmore refrigerator?
To tell what model Kenmore refrigerator you have, look for the model and serial number on the identification label inside the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment. For Kenmore model 79577316600, the label is located on the right-hand side of the refrigerator compartment (see the owner's manual).
Check these common label locations first (use a flashlight and look for a white or silver sticker/plate):
- Right-hand side wall inside the refrigerator compartment (most common for this model family)
- Side wall near the crisper drawers
- Ceiling area inside the fresh food compartment
- Behind or beside the crisper drawer cover
- Along the door frame when the refrigerator door is open
Kenmore model numbers are usually a series of numbers, sometimes with a period in the middle (example: 795.7731). The exact model number is what we use to match the correct parts, diagrams, and troubleshooting info for your refrigerator.
Using the correct model number helps you:
- Order the right replacement parts the first time
- Find the correct door, shelf, and drawer configurations
- Match electrical parts (control boards, sensors, switches) correctly
- Use the right troubleshooting steps for your exact design
Write down the information exactly as shown on the label:
- Model number (example: 79577316600)
- Serial number
- Date of purchase (if listed on your paperwork)
| Item | What to copy | Example format |
|---|---|---|
| Model number | Full model identifier | 79577316600 (or 795.7731) |
| Serial number | Full serial as printed | Letters and numbers |
| Product type | Refrigerator style | Bottom-mount / bottom freezer |
If the sticker is worn or smeared, gently wipe it with a damp cloth and dry it. Taking a close-up photo and zooming in often makes faint characters easier to read.
Last updated: February 2026
How to tell if a Kenmore refrigerator compressor is bad?
On your Kenmore 79577316600 bottom-mount refrigerator, a “bad compressor” usually shows up as warm temperatures with the compressor repeatedly clicking on and off, running unusually long without cooling, or making abnormal loud buzzing or knocking. Before condemning the compressor, rule out airflow, dirty condenser coils, and control or start-device issues using the owner's manual.
Unplug the refrigerator before inspecting parts.
- Confirm the unit has power and the controls are not set to OFF.
- Listen: a single click at start, then silence, then another click every few minutes often points to a start problem.
- Check condenser coils for heavy dust; dirty coils make the compressor work harder and run longer.
- Verify doors close and seal; warm air leaks can mimic compressor failure.
- Give it time after a power interruption or first plug-in; cooling can take up to 24 hours.
The manual notes that modern, high-efficiency compressors can run longer and may sound different than older refrigerators.
| What you notice | Often normal | Often a problem |
|---|---|---|
| Longer run times in warm rooms | Yes | No |
| Pulsating or high-pitched hum while running | Yes | No |
| Repeated clicking every few minutes with little or no cooling | No | Yes |
| Loud knocking, grinding, or overheating shutdown | No | Yes |
A compressor can be fine but unable to start or cool due to related components.
- Start device/relay (common cause of clicking and no start)
- Temperature sensing issues (example: refrigerator sensor 6500JB2001B)
- Defrost system problems causing heavy frost and poor airflow (example: refrigerator defrost sensor assembly 6615JB2005C or refrigerator defrost heater 5300JB1100J)
- Airflow control problems between compartments (example: refrigerator air damper motor 4681JB1027N)
Replacing a compressor is a major repair; confirming basics like condenser cleanliness, door sealing, and defrost airflow prevents unnecessary parts replacement and gets cooling restored faster.
Last updated: February 2026
What are the common problems with Kenmore 79577316600 Elite refrigerators?
Common problems we see with the Kenmore 79577316600 bottom-mount refrigerator are warm temperatures (fresh food or freezer), slow ice production, doors that do not seal or close correctly, water leaks that create puddles, and unusual noises. Many of these start with airflow restrictions, dirty condenser coils, or a defrost or temperature-sensing issue; the troubleshooting steps in the owner's manual help you narrow it down fast.
- Refrigerator or freezer too warm: blocked air vents, frequent door openings, large warm food loads, dirty condenser coils, or a temperature control setting that needs adjustment.
- Ice maker slow or cubes small: freezer not cold enough yet (especially after hookup), door left ajar, or a water supply restriction.
- Doors will not close completely: refrigerator not level, bins or shelves out of position, food packages blocking the door, or sticky/dirty door gaskets.
- Water on the floor (puddles): a clogged or misrouted drain path is common; the refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D is a frequent fix when the drain tube is damaged.
- Noisy operation: fan noise from ice buildup, airflow blockage, or a component starting to fail.
- Confirm doors close firmly and nothing is holding them open.
- Check that interior air vents are not blocked by food containers.
- Clean condenser coils (dirty coils reduce heat transfer and can cause poor cooling).
- Adjust temperature controls one step, then wait 24 hours and re-check temperatures.
- If doors are hard to open right after closing, wait about 5 minutes for pressure to equalize.
| Symptom | Part that often relates | What it affects |
|---|---|---|
| Light stays on, warm temps, door not “recognized” as closed | Refrigerator door push-button switch 6600JB1010A | Door-closed signal and interior light behavior |
| Temps fluctuate or seem inaccurate | Refrigerator sensor 6500JB2001B | Temperature feedback to the control system |
| Frost buildup, warming, defrost issues | Refrigerator defrost heater 5300JB1100J or refrigerator defrost sensor assembly 6615JB2005C | Automatic defrost performance |
| Water leaks/puddles | Refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D | Defrost drain routing to the drain pan |
Cooling and ice-making problems often get worse when airflow is restricted or the doors do not seal. Fixing the basics (leveling, gasket cleaning, coil cleaning, vent clearance) can restore normal temperatures and prevent food spoilage and repeat icing or leaking.
Last updated: February 2026





