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Maytag MAV3855AWW washer/dryer

Maytag MAV3855AWW washer/dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Maytag MAV3855AWW washer/dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for MAV3855AWW Washer/Dryer

  • Washer Power Cord for Maytag MAV3855AWW - Part 21001592

    Supplemental information diagram

    Washer Power Cord

    Part #21001592

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Lid Switch for Maytag MAV3855AWW - Part 21001148

    Control panel & top diagram

    Lid Switch

    Part #21001148

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Washer Cabinet Top (white) for Maytag MAV3855AWW - Part 21001602

    Control panel & top diagram

    Washer Cabinet Top (white)

    Part #21001602

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Washer Base for Maytag MAV3855AWW - Part 21001893

    Base & motor diagram

    Washer Base

    Part #21001893

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Energy Label for Maytag MAV3855AWW - Part 21002200

    Supplemental information diagram

    Energy Label

    Part #21002200

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Timer Skirt for Maytag MAV3855AWW - Part 21001984

    Control panel & top diagram

    Timer Skirt

    Part #21001984

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Washer Tub Top Seal for Maytag MAV3855AWW - Part 35-2328

    Inner - outer tub diagram

    Washer Tub Top Seal

    Part #35-2328

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Seal Hub for Maytag MAV3855AWW - Part 21001868

    Transmission diagram

    Seal Hub

    Part #21001868

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Bumper for Maytag MAV3855AWW - Part 35-0581

    Control panel & top diagram

    Bumper

    Part #35-0581

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Stabilizer for Maytag MAV3855AWW - Part 21002221

    Base & motor diagram

    Stabilizer

    Part #21002221

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Maytag Washer/Dryer MAV3855AWW FAQs

On the Maytag MAV3855AWW, there is no electronic “lid lock reset” sequence like on newer lid-lock models. This washer simply will not agitate or spin with the lid open; the practical reset is to stop the cycle, close the lid fully, then restart the cycle using the control dial as described in the owner's manual.

Quick reset steps (what works on this model)

  • Push the control dial in to turn the washer off.
  • Wait 30 seconds.
  • Close the lid completely (do not slam it).
  • Turn the dial clockwise to the desired cycle.
  • Pull the dial out (or press the cycle selector, depending on your control style) to restart.

If the washer still will not spin or agitate

These checks address the most common “lid lock” symptoms on the MAV3855AWW.

  • Confirm the lid is fully closed and aligned on the hinges.
  • If the washer stopped mid-spin, redistribute the load, close the lid, and restart.
  • Check power: verify the outlet works and reset the breaker if needed.
  • If it fills but will not agitate/spin, restart the cycle with the lid closed.
  • If the cycle pauses briefly, wait; short pauses are normal.

What not to do

The timer/control dial on this washer is not designed for counterclockwise “reset” tricks.

  • Do not turn the control dial counterclockwise.
  • Do not force the lid or lid strike.
  • Do not bypass the lid safety function.

Parts that can cause “lid won’t run” symptoms

If the lid is closed but the washer still will not run, a mechanical lid switch or actuator issue is a common cause on top-load designs. This model’s parts list includes a related actuator component: washer lid switch actuator.

Symptom Most likely area to check What you can do first
Won’t agitate or spin Lid closure and lid switch/actuator Close lid firmly, restart cycle
Stops during spin Uneven load Redistribute load, restart
Advances through “Off” oddly Timer/control dial use Push dial in before changing settings

Why it matters

The lid-closed safety design prevents the basket from spinning with the lid open. When the washer senses the lid is not fully closed (or the switch/actuator is not responding), it will stop agitation and spin to protect you.

Last updated: February 2026

The Maytag MAV3855AWW is a classic top-load washer, and washers in this design class typically run about 2.5 to 3.5 cu. ft. of capacity. For the exact rated capacity for your specific MAV3855AWW version, we recommend confirming it in the MAV3855AWW owner's manual.

How to confirm capacity for MAV3855AWW

Capacity is usually listed in the specifications section of the Use and Care Guide, or on the model tag.

  • Check the specifications section in the MAV3855AWW owner's manual
  • Look for the model and serial tag (commonly under the lid or on the rim of the washer opening)
  • Match the exact model number (MAV3855AWW) and any suffix information on the tag
  • If you are comparing to another washer, compare tub size and basket diameter, not just “cu. ft.” claims

Typical capacity ranges (helpful for comparisons)

Washer type Typical capacity range What it means for loads
Traditional top-load (agitator) 2.5 to 3.5 cu. ft. Best for small to medium loads
High-efficiency top-load 4.0 to 5.5+ cu. ft. Handles larger, bulkier loads

Why it matters

Capacity affects how much you can wash per load and how well the washer circulates water and detergent. Overloading a smaller-capacity top-load washer can lead to poor cleaning, out-of-balance spinning, and extra wear on drive components.

Last updated: February 2026

On the Maytag MAV3855AWW, beeping with flashing lights is usually the washer signaling a cycle interruption or a safety condition (commonly lid opened during spin, an out-of-balance load, or a control reset need). Start by resetting power, then check lid operation and load balance using the steps in the owner's manual.

Quick checks that fix most beeping and flashing

  • Unplug the washer for 10 minutes, then plug it back in and try a cycle again.
  • Make sure the lid is fully closed; the washer should stop if the lid is opened during spin and resume when closed.
  • Redistribute the load (especially bulky items) and run Spin Only to finish extracting water.
  • If the tub fills and drains at the same time, verify the standpipe height and drain setup per the installation guide.
  • Check that the water supply valves are fully open and inlet hoses are not kinked.

What the washer is “telling” you (common causes)

The MAV3855AWW uses indicator lights and beeps to draw attention to conditions that stop or disrupt the cycle.

Symptom you notice Most likely cause What to do next
Beeps during spin, stops immediately Lid opened during spin (safety stop) Close lid; confirm it resumes normally
Ends cycle but clothes are very wet Out-of-balance load completed cycle Redistribute load; run Spin Only
Won’t fill or fills slowly Restricted inlet screens or valve issue Inspect screens; consider valve replacement
Fills and drains at same time Drain hose/standpipe setup issue Correct drain height and hose placement

Parts that commonly relate to fill and flashing issues

If the washer will not fill correctly after you confirm the hoses and screens are clear, the inlet valve can be the next likely part.

Why it matters

Beeping and flashing are the washer’s way of preventing unsafe operation (like spinning with the lid open) and protecting performance (like completing an unbalanced load but leaving extra moisture). Fixing the root cause prevents repeat interruptions and reduces strain on the drive system.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your washers

Choose a symptom to see related washer repairs.

Main causes: clogged drain hose, house drain clogged, bad drain pump, water-level pressure switch failure, bad control b…

Main causes: broken lid switch or lid lock, bad pressure switch, broken shifter assembly, faulty control system…

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Main causes: lack of electrical power, wiring failure, bad power cord, electronic control board failure, bad user interf…

Main causes: no water supply, bad water valves, water-level pressure switch failure, control system failure, bad door lo…

Main causes: unbalanced load, loose spanner nut, worn drive block, broken shock absorber or suspension spring, debris in…

Main causes: leaky water inlet valve, faulty water-level pressure switch, bad electronic control board…

Main causes: bad lid switch or door lock, bad timer or electronic control board, wiring failure, bad water inlet valve a…

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