Kenmore 79572039111 refrigerator Parts

To tell what model Kenmore refrigerator you have, find the model and serial tag on the cabinet (not on a removable drawer). On Kenmore model 79572039111 bottom-mount refrigerators, it is typically inside the fresh food section on a side wall or ceiling, or inside the freezer on an inner wall; confirm the exact location in the 79572039111 owner's manual.

Where to look for the model number tag

Check these common spots first (use a flashlight and look for a sticker or metal plate):

• Inside the refrigerator compartment on the left or right side wall
• On the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment near the light housing
• Inside the freezer compartment on a side wall or back wall
• Behind the lower kick plate (toe grille) at the front bottom
• On the cabinet frame near a door hinge area (with the door open)

What to write down (and why)

Record the full model number and serial number exactly as shown. Kenmore model numbers often include a long string of digits; one missing digit can lead to the wrong parts (water filter, door switch, ice maker) or the wrong service instructions.

Label item	What it’s used for	Example format
Model number	Matching parts and diagrams	79572039111
Serial number	Production date and revisions	Letters + numbers
Brand	Cross-referencing manuals	Kenmore

Tips to avoid common mistakes

• Use the number from the refrigerator cabinet tag, not a number printed on a drawer or shelf
• Include every digit; do not shorten the model number
• If the tag is worn, take a photo and zoom in to confirm characters
• If you are shopping for a filter, match the model number first, then the filter part (for example, genuine Kenmore refrigerator water filter 9690 AGF80300801)

Why it matters

Kenmore refrigerators share similar styling across many series, but parts like the electronic control board, door switch, and water inlet valve can vary by model. Using the exact model number prevents ordering the wrong replacement part.

Last updated: February 2026

The exact cubic feet (total capacity) for Kenmore refrigerator model 79572039111 is listed on the model’s rating label and in the 79572039111 owner's manual. Most Kenmore 795 (LG-built) bottom-mount refrigerators are commonly in the 20 to 22 cu. ft. range.

How to find the exact cubic feet for model 79572039111

Check these two places first; they are the most reliable for your specific unit:

• Owner’s manual: Look for “Specifications” or “Capacity” in the 79572039111 owner's manual.
• Rating label: Usually inside the fresh food compartment on a side wall, near the crisper area, or near the door opening.
• Product data sheet (if included with paperwork): Often lists “Total capacity” and sometimes “Refrigerator” and “Freezer” capacities separately.
• Model tag vs. serial tag: Use the tag that shows the full model number 79572039111.

What “cubic feet” means (and why numbers can look different)

Capacity is the total internal storage volume. Some documents list:

• Total capacity (refrigerator + freezer)
• Refrigerator capacity only
• Freezer capacity only

Capacity listing	What it includes	Where you’ll see it
Total capacity	Fresh food + freezer	Manual/spec sheet, rating label
Refrigerator capacity	Upper compartment only	Manual/spec sheet
Freezer capacity	Bottom drawer only	Manual/spec sheet

Why it matters

Knowing the correct cubic feet helps when comparing replacement refrigerators, choosing storage accessories, and confirming you are using the right parts and filters for your exact configuration.

Last updated: February 2026

Kenmore model numbers read left to right: the first 3 digits are the manufacturer prefix, and the remaining digits identify the exact design and revision. For Kenmore refrigerator model 79572039111, the 795 prefix is the key code we use to match the correct parts and service information.

Where to find the model number on a refrigerator

Look for the rating label in one of these common spots:

• Inside the fresh food compartment on a side wall
• On the door frame when you open the refrigerator door
• Behind the crisper drawers on a side wall
• On the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment near the lights
• On the back exterior panel (less common)

For label-location notes and model-specific details, check the 79572039111 owner's manual.

How to break down a Kenmore model number

Most Kenmore model numbers follow this practical structure for parts lookup:

• Prefix (first 3 digits): manufacturer code (most important)
• Middle digits: platform or base design series
• Ending digits: feature set, color, or production revision

Example using your model

Section	Example	Meaning
Manufacturer prefix	795	Identifies the manufacturing source used for parts matching
Model identifier	72039111	Narrows to the exact bottom-mount refrigerator configuration

Why it matters when ordering parts

Using the full model number prevents fit and wiring mismatches, especially on water and ice components.

• Water filters and housings vary by design
• Ice maker assemblies can differ by revision
• Control boards must match the exact configuration
• Door bins, rails, and drawers are often model-specific

If you are working on the water system, the how to replace the water filter in a Kenmore refrigerator guide helps you identify the filter style and install it correctly.

Last updated: February 2026

On Kenmore model 79572039111, a bad compressor usually shows up as poor or no cooling even though the refrigerator seems to be running, repeated clicking or buzzing from the compressor area, or the unit running almost nonstop without reaching temperature. Confirm the basics first, then move to compressor-specific checks.

Quick symptoms that point to the compressor

• Fresh food and freezer both warm (not just one section)
• Compressor tries to start, then clicks off (often every few minutes)
• Compressor is very hot to the touch after repeated start attempts
• You hear a hum, then a click (start attempt fails)
• No compressor sound at all while interior lights and fans still work

Rule out common look-alikes first (fast checks)

Before blaming the compressor, we check these because they cause the same “not cooling” complaint:

• Make sure the condenser area is not packed with dust and pet hair
• Verify the condenser fan runs when the compressor is running
• Listen for the evaporator fan in the freezer; no airflow can mimic a sealed-system issue
• Check door gaskets for gaps and heavy frost buildup inside
• Confirm temperature settings and allow 24 hours after changes

What to check next (in order)

What you observe	Most likely cause	What we do next
Clicks every few minutes, little or no cooling	Compressor start device or overload	Inspect/replace the overload device if applicable; then retest
Compressor runs, fans run, still not cold	Sealed system problem (compressor weak, refrigerant issue, restriction)	Technician diagnosis with pressures and temperatures
No compressor sound, control panel works	Control or wiring issue	Verify power to compressor circuit and control outputs

Compressor-specific confirmation (best practice)

A technician confirms compressor condition with electrical and sealed-system tests:

• Measure compressor amperage draw during start and run
• Check winding continuity and insulation to ground
• Verify start components are working correctly
• Evaluate frost pattern and system pressures (sealed system)

If the compressor is confirmed failed, the replacement for this model is the refrigerator compressor TCA38091801. For model-specific operating details and normal sounds, use the 79572039111 owner's manual.

Why it matters

Replacing a compressor is a major repair. Ruling out airflow problems, a failed fan motor, or a start/overload issue prevents unnecessary parts costs and gets cooling restored faster.

Last updated: February 2026

Yes, replacing the compressor on a Kenmore refrigerator model 79572039111 is worth it when the refrigerator is in otherwise good condition and the total repair cost is clearly less than replacing the unit. If the refrigerator is older and has multiple issues, replacement is usually the better value.

Quick decision checklist

We use these practical factors to decide whether a compressor job makes sense:

• Age of the refrigerator: under ~8 years usually favors repair; over ~10 years usually favors replacement
• Total repair cost vs. replacement cost: if repair is over ~50% of a comparable new refrigerator, replacement is typically smarter
• Overall condition: worn door gaskets, cracked liners, noisy fans, or recurring cooling problems push toward replacement
• Warranty/coverage: any parts or labor coverage can swing the decision toward repair
• Food protection and downtime: compressor replacement can take time; plan for food storage

For model-specific safety, access, and service notes, follow the 79572039111 owner's manual.

Typical costs and what they include

A compressor replacement is a sealed-system repair; it is labor-intensive and requires specialized tools.

Item	What it covers	Why it matters
Compressor part	The compressor itself	Main component cost (often the biggest line item)
Labor	Recovering refrigerant, brazing, evacuation, recharge	Skilled work drives total price
Related parts	Filter drier, process tube, sometimes start device	Helps prevent repeat failures

If you are pricing the part for this model, the refrigerator compressor TCA38091801 is the listed compressor assembly.

When we recommend replacing the compressor

Compressor replacement is usually the right call when:

• The refrigerator is cooling well historically and the failure is sudden
• The cabinet, doors, and drawers are in good shape
• You have no signs of a refrigerant leak (oil residue, repeated loss of cooling after prior sealed-system work)
• You want to keep the same fit and finish (built-in space constraints)

When we recommend replacing the refrigerator instead

Replacement is usually the better value when:

• The refrigerator is 10+ years old
• You have other expensive symptoms (warm freezer, frost issues, fan noise, control problems)
• The repair quote is close to the cost of a new unit
• You have had prior sealed-system repairs

Why it matters

A compressor is the heart of the cooling system. Replacing it can restore normal temperatures and prevent food spoilage, but it is one of the highest-cost refrigerator repairs, so comparing age, condition, and total cost protects your budget.

Last updated: February 2026

Most Kenmore refrigerators, including bottom-mount models like 79572039111, last 10 to 15 years with normal use. With consistent maintenance (airflow, clean coils, good door seals), it’s common to reach the upper end of that range before major repairs become more frequent.

Typical lifespan ranges (what we see most often)

Appliance type	Typical lifespan	What usually ends it first
Kenmore refrigerator (most styles)	10 to 15 years	Sealed system wear, control issues, cooling fan failures
Bottom-mount refrigerator	10 to 15 years	Evaporator fan, defrost/drain problems, compressor strain

What helps your refrigerator reach 15 years

• Vacuum or brush the condenser area regularly so the compressor runs cooler.
• Keep door gaskets clean and sealing tightly to prevent constant run time.
• Set stable temps (about 37°F fresh food and 0°F freezer) and avoid frequent changes.
• Don’t overpack; good airflow prevents warm spots and frost buildup.
• Replace water filters on schedule to protect the water system and ice maker.

For model-specific care and cleaning intervals, follow the 79572039111 owner's manual.

Signs your Kenmore is nearing end-of-life

• Compressor runs almost constantly but temperatures still drift warm.
• Repeated frost buildup or water leaks from defrost drain icing.
• Loud fan noise or intermittent cooling (often tied to the evaporator fan).
• Multiple repairs needed within a short period (for example, ice maker plus cooling issues).

Why it matters

Knowing the expected lifespan helps you decide whether to repair or replace. On a 10 to 15 year old refrigerator, a lower-cost fix (like a door switch or water filter) often makes sense, while high-cost sealed system repairs can be harder to justify.

Last updated: February 2026

On Kenmore refrigerator model 79572039111, water leaking underneath is usually caused by a defrost drain that is clogged or frozen, or by water overflowing the drain pan. Start by clearing the drain path and checking for cracked drain components; then inspect the water supply parts if the leak continues.

Quick checks that fix most leaks

• Unplug the refrigerator before inspecting or clearing ice.
• Look for a sheet of ice on the freezer floor or water under the crisper drawers (common with a blocked defrost drain).
• Flush the defrost drain with warm water (a turkey baster works well) until it flows freely.
• Check the drain pan underneath for cracks, misalignment, or overflow.
• Inspect the water filter area for drips after dispensing water.
• Verify the refrigerator is level front-to-back and side-to-side; poor leveling can cause water to miss the drain pan.

Common leak sources and what you will see

Leak source	Typical symptom	What to do first
Defrost drain clogged/frozen	Water under drawers; ice in bottom of freezer	Thaw and flush the drain; clear debris
Drain tube restricted	Water returns after a day or two	Inspect/replace the refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D
Water filter not seated	Drips near filter housing	Reseat filter; replace if damaged
Water line or fitting leaking	Puddle near back/bottom	Inspect tubing and connections

Parts that commonly solve “leaking underneath”

If you find the leak is coming from the drain or water system, these model-matched parts are common fixes:

• Refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D if the drain line is split, kinked, or won’t stay clear
• Refrigerator water tubing MJU62070602 if a supply line or internal tube is cracked or rubbing
• Lg refrigerator water inlet valve AJU72992601 if the valve seeps or drips even when not dispensing
• Refrigerator water filter bypass ABN73019101 for testing (bypass the filter housing to isolate a filter-related leak)

Why it matters

Water under the refrigerator can damage flooring and also lead to ice buildup that blocks airflow in the freezer. Fixing the drain path early helps the defrost system work correctly and prevents repeat puddles.

Model-specific help

Use the 79572039111 owner's manual to locate the defrost drain access points, drain pan location, and any cleaning steps recommended for your exact Kenmore bottom-mount design.

Last updated: February 2026

When a Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator like model 79572039111 is warm at the bottom, the most common causes are restricted airflow or poor heat removal, often from dirty condenser coils, a weak fan, or frost and ice buildup. Start with cleaning and airflow checks before replacing parts.

Quick checks we recommend first

• Set fresh food to about 37°F and freezer to about 0°F, then wait 24 hours to judge results.
• Make sure vents inside the refrigerator are not blocked by food packages.
• Clean dust and pet hair from the condenser area (unplug first).
• Confirm the doors close fully and the gaskets seal all the way around.
• Listen for fans: you should typically hear a fan running when the compressor is running.

Most likely causes (and what to do)

Dirty condenser coils or blocked condenser airflow

Dust on the condenser makes it hard to dump heat, so the refrigerator section can warm up.

• Vacuum coils and the grille area.
• If the condenser fan is not running (on models that use one), cooling performance drops.

Evaporator fan not moving cold air

If the evaporator fan is weak or stopped, cold air does not circulate well to the refrigerator compartment.

• If you hear rattling, squealing, or no fan sound with the compressor running, inspect the fan.
• Consider the refrigerator evaporator fan motor 4681JB1027C if diagnostics point to a failed fan motor.

Frost or ice blocking airflow (defrost issue)

A heavy frost layer on the evaporator can block airflow to the bottom of the refrigerator.

• Check for frost buildup on the freezer back wall.
• A full manual defrost (unplug, doors open, towels down) can restore airflow temporarily.

Symptom-to-cause guide

What you notice	Most common cause	Best next step
Freezer cold, fridge bottom warm	Airflow restriction or evaporator fan issue	Clear vents; check fan operation
Both sections warm	Condenser coils, condenser fan, or sealed system	Clean coils; verify fans; service if needed
Water/ice buildup, warm spots	Defrost drain or defrost problem	Inspect for frost; clear drain path

Why it matters

Bottom-area warming usually means cold air is not circulating correctly or the system cannot shed heat efficiently. Fixing airflow and coil cleanliness often restores normal temperatures and reduces compressor run time.

Helpful references

• Use the 79572039111 owner's manual for temperature settings, vent locations, and cleaning guidance.
• For fan troubleshooting steps, follow how to fix your evaporator cooling fan.

Last updated: February 2026