Kenmore 79576202901 refrigerator Parts

Your Kenmore refrigerator’s model number is printed on the appliance’s ID tag, usually inside the fresh food compartment or freezer. For a bottom-mount like model 79576202901, the tag is commonly on an inside wall, near the crisper area, or behind the lower kickplate; confirm the exact tag location in the 79576202901 owner’s manual.

Where to look for the model number tag

Check these spots in this order (most common first):

• Inside the refrigerator compartment on a side wall (often upper right or upper left)
• On the wall behind or beside the lower crisper drawers
• Inside the freezer compartment on a side wall or rear wall
• Along the door frame (open the door and look around the perimeter)
• Behind the lower front kickplate or toe grille (near the floor)

What the model number looks like (and what to write down)

We recommend recording the full model number exactly as shown, including any extra digits.

What to capture	Example	Why it matters
Model number	79576202901	Matches the correct parts list and diagrams
Serial number	(varies)	Helps date the unit and confirm production run
Brand	Kenmore	Confirms the correct service literature

Tips to avoid common mix-ups

• Use the model number, not the marketing name (like “Elite” or “bottom freezer”).
• Copy every digit; 79576202901 is different from similar 795-series numbers.
• If the tag is hard to read, take a clear photo and zoom in.

Why it matters

The model number is how we match your refrigerator to the correct Kenmore parts, such as the ice maker kit AEQ72909603 or the refrigerator water inlet valve assembly AJU55759303. Using the exact model number prevents ordering a part that fits a different 795-series design.

Last updated: February 2026

Kenmore refrigerator model 79576202901 is a bottom-mount (bottom freezer) refrigerator; its exact cubic-foot capacity is listed on the model’s specification section in the 79576202901 owner's manual. Most Kenmore 795 (LG-built) bottom-mount refrigerators are commonly in the 20 to 22 cu. ft. range.

How to find the exact capacity for 79576202901

• Check the specifications or product information pages in the 79576202901 owner's manual.
• Look for wording like “Total capacity”, “Total volume”, or “Capacity (cu. ft.)”.
• If the manual lists separate sections, add refrigerator and freezer volumes only if it explicitly says to.
• If you have the rating label inside the fresh food compartment, it sometimes lists capacity or a code you can match to the manual.

Typical capacity range (what to expect)

Refrigerator type	Common capacity range	Notes
Bottom-mount (bottom freezer) like 79576202901	20 to 22 cu. ft.	Most common for Kenmore 795 series
Larger bottom-mount models	23 to 25+ cu. ft.	Often wider or deeper cabinets

Why it matters

Capacity helps you compare replacement shelves, drawers, and storage layout expectations. It also helps when planning kitchen fit and airflow clearance, especially if you are troubleshooting cooling performance or loading habits.

Last updated: February 2026

A bad compressor in your Kenmore refrigerator model 79576202901 usually shows up as poor or no cooling even though the unit has power, often with repeated clicking (trying to start) or a compressor that runs but never brings temperatures down. Confirm basics first using the 79576202901 owner's manual.

Quick symptoms checklist

• Fridge and freezer are warm; interior lights work
• Compressor area is unusually hot, or you hear a click every few minutes
• You hear the condenser fan, but cooling does not improve
• Frost pattern looks abnormal (little to no frost on the evaporator cover area)
• Breaker is not tripping, but the refrigerator seems to run constantly

Rule out common look-alikes before blaming the compressor

Many “bad compressor” complaints are caused by airflow, defrost, or start-device problems.

1. Condenser airflow: Clean dust from the condenser coils and confirm the condenser fan runs.
2. Evaporator airflow: If the freezer fan is not moving air, cooling will be weak. Use how to fix your evaporator cooling fan for checks.
3. Defrost system: Heavy frost buildup behind the freezer rear panel points to a defrost failure, not a compressor. A common suspect is the refrigerator defrost sensor assembly 6615JB2005C.
4. Start components: A clicking compressor that will not start can be a start relay/overload issue. (If the compressor starts and runs smoothly, the relay is less likely.)

What you can safely check at home

• Listen and feel: A compressor that is silent all the time, or clicks repeatedly without running, is a strong failure indicator.
• Temperature trend: After 4 to 6 hours of running, the freezer should be trending colder; if it is not, suspect a sealed-system or compressor issue.
• Power reset: Unplug for 5 minutes, plug back in, and listen for a normal start (steady hum) versus click-stop cycles.

Symptom-to-cause guide

What you notice	Most likely cause	What to check next
Click every few minutes, no cooling	Start device or compressor locked	Start relay/overload, wiring, compressor start
Runs constantly, still warm	Sealed system or weak compressor	Coil cleanliness, fans, then sealed-system diagnosis
Heavy frost blanket in freezer	Defrost failure	Defrost sensor/heater, airflow

Why it matters

Replacing a compressor is a sealed-system repair; it is one of the highest-cost refrigerator fixes. Ruling out fans, defrost issues, and airflow problems first prevents unnecessary parts and downtime.

Last updated: February 2026

Kenmore Elite refrigerators (including Kenmore model 79576202901) most often have cooling problems, ice maker and water supply issues, defrost-related frost buildup, and door sealing or alignment problems. Many of these are fixed with cleaning, airflow checks, or replacing a failed fan, sensor, heater, or water inlet valve.

Most common symptoms and what usually causes them

• Not cooling or warm fridge section: dirty condenser coils, failed evaporator fan motor, weak compressor start components, or a sealed-system/compressor issue
• Freezer cold but fridge warm: blocked air vents, iced-over evaporator (defrost problem), or a damper/airflow issue
• Frost buildup on back wall or heavy ice: failed defrost heater, defrost sensor, or airflow restriction
• Ice maker not making ice: water supply shutoff, frozen fill path, bad inlet valve, or ice maker assembly failure
• Water leaking or puddles: clogged/iced drain path or a drain tube issue
• Light stays on or door alarm issues: failed door switch or door not closing squarely

Quick checks we recommend before buying parts

1. Confirm temperatures: fridge about 37°F, freezer about 0°F.
2. Clean condenser coils and make sure the condenser fan area is clear.
3. Check airflow: do not block vents with food packages; listen for the evaporator fan.
4. Inspect door seals: look for gaps, rips, or areas not contacting the cabinet.
5. Look for frost patterns: heavy frost often points to a defrost system problem.

Parts that commonly fix these problems on model 79576202901

Problem area	Common fix	Example part for this model
Ice maker not working	Replace ice maker assembly	Ice maker kit AEQ72909603
No water to ice maker/dispenser	Replace inlet valve	Refrigerator water inlet valve assembly AJU55759303
Frost buildup/defrost failure	Replace defrost components	Refrigerator defrost heater 5300JB1100J, refrigerator defrost sensor assembly 6615JB2005C
Door not sensing closed	Replace door switch	Lg refrigerator door switch 6600JB1010A
Leaks inside/freezer floor ice	Clear/repair drain path	Refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D

Error codes and model-specific guidance

If your display shows an error code, use our Kenmore 795 model bottom freezer refrigerator error codes reference along with the 79576202901 owner's manual to match the code to the most likely failed component.

Why it matters

Cooling, defrost, and airflow problems can look the same from the outside, but the fix is very different. A quick temperature check plus a frost and airflow inspection helps you avoid replacing the wrong part and protects food from unsafe temperatures.

Last updated: February 2026

On a Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator like model 79576202901, the “bottom part” is usually called the base grille (or kickplate) on the outside, and the machine compartment underneath or behind it, where key cooling components like the compressor and condenser area are located. See the 79576202901 owner's manual for the exact component names used for your unit.

Common names you might hear (and what they mean)

• Base grille / kickplate: The removable lower front cover near the floor.
• Machine compartment: The service area that houses cooling-system components.
• Compressor compartment: A common way to refer to the machine compartment because the compressor sits there.
• Drain pan area: The spot where defrost water evaporates (often near the compressor).
• Bottom freezer section: On bottom-mount models, the lower drawer is the freezer storage area.

Quick guide: outside vs. inside

If you mean...	It’s commonly called...	What you’ll find there
The lower front cover	Base grille (kickplate)	Airflow opening, access to cleaning/service area
The area behind/under that cover	Machine compartment	Compressor, condenser fan, drain pan
The lowest storage area	Bottom freezer drawer	Frozen food storage, slide rails, bins

Why it matters

Using the right term helps you get the right instructions and parts. For example, cooling or “warm fridge” issues often point to the machine compartment (airflow, fan, condenser), while door-alarm or light issues relate to the door area.

Parts that are often involved with “bottom area” issues

If you are troubleshooting noise, heat, or airflow at the bottom, these model-matched parts are commonly involved:

• Refrigerator compressor TCA35931726 (drives the cooling cycle)
• Refrigerator condenser fan motor EAU61644105 (moves air across the condenser)
• Refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D (helps route defrost water)

Last updated: February 2026

Most Kenmore refrigerators, including bottom-mount models like 79576202901, typically last 10 to 15 years. With steady maintenance (clean coils, good door seals, correct temperatures), it is common to reach the high end of that range and beyond; day-to-day use and environment drive the outcome.

Typical lifespan ranges (what we see most often)

• 10 to 15 years: common service life for most modern refrigerators
• 15+ years: achievable with good airflow, clean condenser area, and stable power
• Under 10 years: more likely with poor ventilation, dirty coils, frequent door openings, or recurring ice maker and water issues

Refrigerator style	Typical lifespan	Notes
Top freezer	12 to 18 years	Fewer features, often fewer repairs
Bottom-mount (like 79576202901)	10 to 15 years	More moving parts (drawers, fans, defrost system)
French door	9 to 14 years	More doors and features can mean more wear

What shortens or extends lifespan

• Condenser coil and fan cleanliness (dust buildup raises compressor workload)
• Door gasket condition (air leaks cause longer run times)
• Correct temperature settings (fresh food about 37°F, freezer about 0°F)
• Ice maker and water system health (clogs and leaks create secondary damage)
• Airflow around the cabinet (tight enclosures trap heat)

Parts that commonly affect “how long it lasts”

These parts do not set the lifespan by themselves, but failures here often drive major repairs:

• Refrigerator compressor TCA35931726
• Refrigerator compressor start relay EBG32606502
• Refrigerator defrost heater 5300JB1100J
• Refrigerator defrost sensor assembly 6615JB2005C

Why it matters

A refrigerator that runs longer and harder than it should (from dirty coils, air leaks, or defrost problems) puts extra stress on the sealed system and compressor. Preventive care reduces energy use, protects food temperatures, and helps your Kenmore 79576202901 reach its expected service life.

For model-specific care and cleaning intervals, follow the 79576202901 owner’s manual.

Last updated: February 2026

Ice on the bottom of the freezer in Kenmore model 79576202901 almost always happens when defrost water cannot drain away; it pools under the evaporator, runs to the freezer floor, and freezes into a sheet. The most common cause is a clogged or frozen defrost drain tube.

Quick checks we recommend first

• Unplug the refrigerator before removing panels or using a hair dryer.
• Look for a solid ice slab on the freezer floor or under the lower drawer.
• Check for water dripping from the rear freezer wall during/after a defrost cycle.
• Inspect the drain opening (usually below the evaporator cover) for ice or debris.
• Confirm the door closes tightly and the gasket is sealing all the way around.

Most common causes and what to do

Likely cause	What you’ll notice	What usually fixes it
Frozen or clogged defrost drain	Ice sheet on freezer bottom; water in drawer track area	Thaw the drain, flush with hot water, clear debris
Drain tube restricted or misrouted	Water returns after a few days	Clean/replace the drain tube and confirm proper routing
Door not sealing well	Frost buildup plus ice at bottom	Clean/reshape gasket, level unit, reduce door gaps

If you find the drain is blocked, replacing the drain tube is a common long-term fix; for this model, see the refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D.

Step-by-step: thaw and clear the drain (typical method)

1. Remove food and the freezer drawer/bins.
2. Melt the ice on the freezer floor with warm towels or gentle heat.
3. Access the drain opening at the bottom of the rear freezer panel.
4. Flush the drain with hot water (a turkey baster works well) until it flows freely.
5. Pull the unit out and confirm water drains into the pan underneath.

For panel removal details and drain access points specific to your layout, follow the 79576202901 owner’s manual.

Why it matters

When defrost water cannot drain, it refreezes and can block airflow, cause temperature swings, and create recurring leaks that damage drawer tracks and stored food.

Last updated: February 2026

Water leaking from the bottom of your Kenmore refrigerator model 79576202901 is usually caused by a clogged or frozen defrost drain, a cracked or mispositioned drain tube, or a water supply leak feeding the ice maker. Start by checking for ice or debris in the drain path and for drips at the inlet valve.

Quick checks we recommend first

• Look for a sheet of ice on the freezer floor or water under the crisper drawers (classic defrost drain backup).
• Inspect the rear lower area for dripping at the water line connection and valve.
• Check the drain pan for cracks, overflow, or being out of position.
• Confirm the doors close fully and the gasket seals; warm air can create excess frost that overwhelms the drain.
• If the leak happens only during ice maker fill, focus on the fill tube and inlet valve.

Most common causes and what to do

What you see	Most likely cause	What to do next
Water inside, then puddle at front	Defrost drain clogged or frozen	Thaw the drain area with warm water; clear the drain hole and tube
Puddle near back/bottom	Drain tube loose, split, or blocked	Inspect and clean or replace the tube
Drips only when ice maker runs	Inlet valve seeping or fill path leaking	Check fittings; test/replace the valve if it weeps
Water after door is open a lot	Poor door seal causing heavy frost	Clean gasket, level unit, correct alignment

Parts that commonly solve bottom leaks on this model

If your troubleshooting points to a failed component, these model-matched parts are common fixes:

• Refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D (clears or replaces a restricted drain path)
• Refrigerator water inlet valve assembly AJU55759303 (fixes seeping valve or leaking fittings)
• Refrigerator door gasket assembly ADX73350925 (reduces frost buildup that can refreeze the drain)

Why it matters

A slow leak can lead to ice buildup, warm temperatures, and floor damage. Fixing the drain or water supply leak early also helps the evaporator and fan system maintain steady airflow and defrost performance.

Model-specific reference

Use the 79576202901 owner’s manual for the exact drain location, drain pan access, and any model-specific defrost drain cleaning steps.

Last updated: February 2026