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Kenmore 11092826101 gas dryer

Kenmore 11092826101 gas dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 11092826101 gas dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 11092826101 Gas Dryer

  • (338471) (alt.) for Kenmore 11092826101 - Part N/P

    Pedestal diagram

    (338471) (alt.)

    Part #N/P

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Dryer Door Handle Screw Hole Plug (graphite) for Kenmore 11092826101 - Part 8519373

    Door diagram

    Dryer Door Handle Screw Hole Plug (graphite)

    Part #8519373

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Parts List for Kenmore 11092826101 - Part LIT8530168

    Top and console diagram

    Parts List

    Part #LIT8530168

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Dryer Door Outer Frame (black) for Kenmore 11092826101 - Part 8519327

    Door diagram

    Dryer Door Outer Frame (black)

    Part #8519327

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Kenmore Gas Dryer 11092826101 FAQs

On Kenmore gas dryer model 11092826101, a blown thermal fuse commonly shows up as a dryer that will not run at all, or a dryer that runs but has heat problems after an airflow restriction. The sure way to know is a continuity test on the fuse with the dryer unplugged (no continuity means the fuse is blown). See the 11092826101 owner’s manual for access and safety notes.

Quick symptoms to look for

  • Dryer will not start (no motor run) even though power is present
  • Dryer starts but shuts off unexpectedly during a cycle
  • Long dry times and very hot cabinet (often points to restricted venting)
  • Burning smell or unusually hot exhaust (stop using the dryer and inspect venting)
  • Recent vent kink, crushed duct, or clogged outside hood (common root cause)

How we test the thermal fuse (basic steps)

  1. Unplug the dryer from the grounded outlet.
  2. Access the blower housing area where the thermal fuse is typically mounted.
  3. Remove at least one wire from the fuse terminal.
  4. Set a multimeter to continuity or lowest ohms.
  5. Test across the fuse terminals.

Expected meter result

Test result What it means What to do next
Beep or near 0 ohms Fuse is good Keep troubleshooting (venting, thermostats, motor circuit)
No beep or OL/infinite Fuse is blown Replace the fuse and correct the airflow problem

If you need the correct replacement for this model, use the dryer thermal fuse WP3390719.

Why it matters (and what usually causes it)

The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device. When airflow is restricted, heat builds up and the fuse opens to stop operation and reduce overheating risk. The manual also calls out checking for a crushed or kinked vent and verifying strong airflow at the outside exhaust hood.

After replacement: prevent it from blowing again

  • Clean the lint screen every load; wash it periodically to remove residue
  • Inspect and clean the entire vent run to the outside hood
  • Replace plastic or thin foil venting with heavy metal or flexible metal vent
  • Confirm the vent is not crushed behind the dryer and the dryer is level

Last updated: February 2026

On Kenmore model 11092826101 dryers, an F26 code points to a door switch or door switch circuit problem. Most often the door is not fully closed, the door strike is misaligned, or the door switch wiring or switch has failed.

What to check first (fast, no tools)

  • Open and firmly re-close the door; listen for a solid latch click.
  • Check for laundry caught between the door and front panel.
  • Inspect the latch area for looseness or misalignment.
  • Unplug the dryer for 1 minute, then restore power and try a cycle again.

Parts that commonly cause an F26-style door switch error

If the door is closing but the code returns, the latch components are a common place to start.

  • Door strike/latch alignment: a worn or shifted strike can prevent the switch from proving the door is closed.
  • Door switch wiring: loose connectors or a damaged harness can interrupt the door-closed signal.

Helpful model-matched part examples:

Quick troubleshooting guide

Symptom Most likely cause What we recommend
Code appears immediately when you press Start Door not fully latched, strike misaligned Re-seat door, inspect strike and latch alignment
Door feels closed but code comes back intermittently Loose wiring at door switch, failing switch Check connections; replace switch if connections are tight
Dryer runs only if you push on the door Worn strike or latch not engaging Replace strike and verify door closes squarely

Why it matters

The door switch is a safety device; the dryer uses it to confirm the door is closed before it will run. If the control does not see a steady door-closed signal, it stops the cycle and posts a fault like F26 to prevent unsafe operation.

Where to find model-specific access and test steps

Use the wiring diagram, component locations, and disassembly steps in the 11092826101 owner's manual to safely access the door switch area and confirm the correct procedure for your exact Kenmore gas dryer configuration.

Last updated: February 2026

For a Kenmore dryer, replacing a heating element typically costs $20 to $100+ for the part and about $100 to $350 total if you hire service (part plus labor). On your Kenmore gas dryer model 11092826101, “no heat” is often caused by gas-heat components, not an electric heating element, so diagnosis matters.

Typical cost breakdown

  • Part only (DIY): $20 to $100+ (more if it’s a complete heater housing/assembly)
  • Service call/labor: commonly $80 to $250 depending on area and access
  • Total installed: commonly $100 to $350
Repair approach What you pay for Typical total
DIY replacement Part only $20 to $100+
Pro repair Part + labor $100 to $350
Pro diagnosis only Trip/diagnostic fee $80 to $150

Why your model being a gas dryer changes the “heating element” answer

Model 11092826101 is a gas dryer, so heat is produced by a burner system (igniter, gas valve coils, radiant sensor, thermostats, fuses) rather than a traditional electric heater coil. If the drum tumbles but there’s no heat, these parts are the most common cost drivers.

Common “no heat” parts to check on 11092826101

What we recommend before you buy parts

  1. Confirm the cycle and heat setting in the 11092826101 owner’s manual.
  2. Check airflow: a crushed vent or clogged lint path can cause overheating and blown fuses.
  3. If the dryer heats briefly then stops, suspect gas valve coils.
  4. If the igniter never glows, suspect the igniter or thermal fuse.

Why it matters

Buying a “heating element” for a gas dryer often leads to the wrong part and extra downtime. A quick symptom check (igniter glow, flame, airflow) usually points to the correct repair and keeps costs closer to the low end.

Last updated: February 2026

Your Kenmore dryer’s model number is printed on the model and serial number label. For Kenmore model 11092826101, the manual specifies the label is located at the top inside the dryer door well; the model number typically begins with 110. (plus additional digits).

Where to look for the model number

Check these common Kenmore dryer label locations (start with the door opening):

  • Top inside the dryer door well (most common on Kenmore 110-series dryers)
  • Inside the door opening on the cabinet frame
  • On the back panel of the dryer cabinet
  • Near the lint screen housing (varies by design)

Use the exact model number to match parts like the dryer thermal fuse WP3390719 and to pull the correct 11092826101 owner's manual.

How to read the Kenmore model number

Kenmore model numbers often start with a 3-digit prefix that helps identify the manufacturing source.

Example prefix What it usually indicates Why it helps
110. Whirlpool-built Kenmore dryer Improves parts and diagram matching
417. / 796. Other manufacturer families Helps you choose the right error code list and parts

Why it matters

Using the full model number (not just “Kenmore gas dryer”) prevents ordering the wrong drum support roller, igniter, or thermostat. It also helps us match the correct wiring diagram, cycle features, and service procedures for your exact dryer.

Quick tips before you order parts

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your dryers

Choose a symptom to see related dryer repairs.

Main causes: bad gas valve coils, broken heating element, tripped safety thermostat or fuse, bad operating thermostat, c…

Main causes: clogged exhaust system, heating system failure, deposits on moisture sensor, control system failure…

Main causes: clogged exhaust vent, bad motor relay, loose dryer door catch, bad door switch, control system failure, fau…

Main causes: door switch failure, lack of power, broken belt, blown thermal fuse, bad drive motor, control system failur…

Main causes: damaged door strike, worn door catch…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, blown thermal fuse, bad door s…

Main causes: bad timer or electronic control board, door switch failure…

Main causes: bad drum support roller, damaged idler pulley, broken blower fan blade, worn drum glide bearing, bad drive …

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