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Kenmore 11076002010 dryer

Kenmore 11076002010 dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 11076002010 dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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  • Dryer Burner for Kenmore 11076002010 - Part WP693140

    8576353 burner assembly diagram

    Shutter

    Part #688617

    Replaced by #WP693140

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  • Dryer Exhaust Duct for Kenmore 11076002010 - Part WP8563749

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Dryer Exhaust Duct

    Part #8563749

    Replaced by #WP8563749

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Valve Coil Kit for Kenmore 11076002010 - Part 279834

    8576353 burner assembly diagram

    Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit

    Part #694539

    Replaced by #279834

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  • Dryer Door Hinge for Kenmore 11076002010 - Part WP3387560

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Dryer Door Hinge

    Part #3387560

    Replaced by #WP3387560

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  • Screw for Kenmore 11076002010 - Part W10891954

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Screw

    Part #8281212

    Replaced by #W10891954

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  • Dryer User Interface for Kenmore 11076002010 - Part WPW10351990

    Top and console parts diagram

    Electronic Control

    Part #W10272631

    Replaced by #WPW10351990

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  • Appliance Screw, 10-16 X 1/2-in for Kenmore 11076002010 - Part WP681414

    Screw

    Part #343641

    Replaced by #WP681414

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  • Whirlpool Appliance Screw for Kenmore 11076002010 - Part WP488729

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Screw

    Part #487909

    Replaced by #WP488729

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  • Dryer Gas Pressure Regulator Spring for Kenmore 11076002010 - Part WP694422

    8576353 burner assembly diagram

    Dryer Gas Pressure Regulator Spring

    Part #694422

    Replaced by #WP694422

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  • Screw for Kenmore 11076002010 - Part WP693995

    8576353 burner assembly diagram

    Screw (white)

    Part #3387057

    Replaced by #WP693995

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Kenmore Dryer 11076002010 FAQs

If you have a Kenmore dryer, the fastest way to identify the exact model is to read the model/serial rating plate on the dryer. For Kenmore model 11076002010, the rating plate is typically in the door opening (door well), and that full number is what we use to match the correct parts and instructions.

Where to find the model number

Check these common locations on Kenmore dryers:

  • In the door opening (door well) on the cabinet frame (most common)
  • On the back panel of the dryer cabinet
  • On the inside of the door
  • Near the lint screen housing (varies by design)

If you see 11076002010 on the label, that confirms your exact Kenmore dryer model.

What to write down (and why)

Record both numbers exactly as shown:

  • Model number (example: 11076002010)
  • Serial number (unique to your unit)
  • Gas type info listed on the rating plate (important for gas dryers)

Why it matters

The model number locks in the correct fit for parts like the dryer door switch, idler pulley, and drum support roller, and it also ensures you follow the right safety and installation requirements.

Quick ID checklist

Use this to confirm you have the right information before ordering parts:

What you found What it tells us What to do next
Model number starts with 110 Common Kenmore platform identifier Use the full model number for parts lookup
Rating plate in the door well Normal location for this style Copy model and serial exactly
Gas type listed (Natural/LP) Fuel compatibility Follow the installation guide for gas requirements

Helpful next steps for model 11076002010

  • Use the model number to pull diagrams and part lists
  • Match symptoms to common wear items (rollers, belt, idler)
  • If the dryer will not start, check the door switch circuit first

For reference, a common start-related part on this model is the dryer door switch WP3406107.

Last updated: February 2026

A blown thermal fuse in your Kenmore dryer model 11076002010 typically shows up as a dryer that will not start (most common) or runs but won’t heat on some designs. The sure way to confirm is a continuity test with a multimeter after unplugging the dryer.

Quick symptoms to look for

  • Dryer won’t start even though the door is closed
  • Motor won’t run and the drum won’t tumble
  • Timer or controls may light up, but nothing happens when you press Start
  • Dryer runs but has no heat (less common, depends on how the fuse is wired)
  • Problem started after a long cycle, restricted venting, or a very hot load

How we test the thermal fuse (safe, reliable method)

  1. Unplug the dryer (or switch off the breaker).
  2. Access the thermal fuse (commonly on the blower housing or exhaust duct area).
  3. Pull the wire connectors off the fuse terminals (grab the connector, not the wire).
  4. Set your multimeter to continuity or the lowest ohms setting.
  5. Touch a probe to each terminal.

Results:

Meter result What it means What to do next
Beep or near 0 Ω Fuse is good Keep troubleshooting (door switch, motor circuit, control)
No beep or OL/infinite Fuse is blown Replace the fuse and correct the overheating cause

Why it matters (and what usually causes it)

A thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that opens when the dryer overheats. If you replace the fuse without fixing the airflow problem, the new fuse often blows again.

Common overheating causes:

  • Crushed, kinked, or excessively long vent run
  • Lint buildup in the vent duct or blower housing
  • Blocked exterior vent hood
  • Restricted airflow from a damaged blower wheel

The installation checklist for this Kenmore dryer emphasizes verifying power, a closed door, and proper vent routing (not crushed or kinked). Use the steps and safety notes in the installation guide before disassembly.

If the dryer won’t start, also confirm:

  • Plug is fully seated in a grounded outlet
  • House fuse is intact or breaker is not tripped
  • Door closes firmly; a failed door switch can mimic a blown fuse (see dryer door switch WP3406107)

Last updated: February 2026

Replacing a heating element in a Kenmore dryer typically costs $30 to $120 for the part and $150 to $350 total when you include professional labor. For Kenmore model 11076002010, confirm the exact heating system and access steps in the 11076002010 installation guide before ordering parts.

Typical cost breakdown

Costs vary by whether you replace only the element coil or a complete heater assembly, plus service call and labor time.

  • Heating element part: $30 to $120 (most common range)
  • Service call / diagnostic: $75 to $125
  • Labor: $75 to $200 (often 1 to 2 hours)
  • Total installed cost: $150 to $350
Scenario What you pay for Typical total
DIY replacement Part only (plus basic supplies) $30 to $120
Pro replacement Part + labor + service call $150 to $350
“No-heat” but not the element Diagnosis + different part $100 to $350

What changes the price the most

  • Dryer type: Electric dryers use a heating element; gas dryers heat with an igniter and gas valve system.
  • Assembly vs. element-only: Some models use a complete heater housing that costs more.
  • Vent restriction: Poor airflow can overheat and shorten heater life, increasing repeat repairs.
  • Access time: Some dryers require more disassembly to reach the heater.

Before you buy a heating element (quick checks)

If the dryer runs but does not heat, we recommend these basics first:

  • Verify the cycle and temperature settings are correct.
  • Check the household breaker/fuse (electric dryers can run on 120V but not heat without full 240V).
  • Confirm strong airflow at the outside vent and clean lint buildup.
  • For gas models, confirm the gas shutoff valve is open and the dryer heats during a short test run.

If your 11076002010 is a gas dryer

Many “no heat” gas-dryer repairs are not a heating element at all. Common fixes include the dryer valve coil kit 279834 or the igniter 279311, depending on symptoms.

Why it matters

Replacing the wrong heating component wastes time and money. A fast airflow and power/fuel check helps you target the correct part the first time and prevents repeat overheating failures.

Last updated: February 2026

The Kenmore dryer model 11076002010 is a 27-inch wide dryer. For planning space, most 27-inch Kenmore dryers are roughly about 38 inches tall and about 28 to 30 inches deep, plus extra room for venting and the door swing; confirm the exact measurements in the 11076002010 installation guide.

Key dimensions and space you should plan for

  • Width: 27 inches (cabinet width)
  • Depth: typically about 28 to 30 inches (varies by door style and vent hookup)
  • Height: typically about 38 inches to the top of the cabinet
  • Rear clearance for venting: plan for at least 5 1/2 inches behind the dryer in many installs
  • Door clearance: allow enough room for the door to open fully

Quick planning table

What you are measuring What to expect for Kenmore 11076002010 What to include in your plan
Cabinet width 27 in. Nothing extra unless in a tight alcove
Overall depth About 28 to 30 in. Add vent elbow space and wall clearance
Overall height About 38 in. Add leveling feet adjustment if needed
Install clearance Rear clearance often 5 1/2 in. minimum Helps prevent crushed venting and poor airflow

Why it matters

Correct sizing prevents a crushed exhaust vent (long dry times, overheating risk), avoids door-interference issues, and helps the automatic cycles work properly when the dryer is level and has proper airflow.

Where to find the exact measurements for your unit

Use the dimension diagram and spacing notes in the 11076002010 installation guide. If you are measuring for a replacement, also compare your cutout width and the vent location (rear, side, or bottom) before ordering.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your dryers

Choose a symptom to see related dryer repairs.

Main causes: bad gas valve coils, broken heating element, tripped safety thermostat or fuse, bad operating thermostat, c…

Main causes: clogged exhaust system, heating system failure, deposits on moisture sensor, control system failure…

Main causes: clogged exhaust vent, bad motor relay, loose dryer door catch, bad door switch, control system failure, fau…

Main causes: door switch failure, lack of power, broken belt, blown thermal fuse, bad drive motor, control system failur…

Main causes: damaged door strike, worn door catch…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, blown thermal fuse, bad door s…

Main causes: bad timer or electronic control board, door switch failure…

Main causes: bad drum support roller, damaged idler pulley, broken blower fan blade, worn drum glide bearing, bad drive …

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These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your dryer.

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