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Kenmore 11061202013 electric dryer

Kenmore 11061202013 electric dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 11061202013 electric dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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  • Dryer Door Latch Kit for Kenmore 11061202013 - Part 279570

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Strike

    Part #696144

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  • Dryer Thermal Fuse for Kenmore 11061202013 - Part WP3392519

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Dryer Thermal Fuse

    Part #3392519

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Motor Pulley for Kenmore 11061202013 - Part WP8066184

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Dryer Motor Pulley

    Part #8066184

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Timer for Kenmore 11061202013 - Part WPW10186032

    Top and console parts diagram

    Dryer Timer

    Part #W10186032

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  • Dryer Drum Light Bulb for Kenmore 11061202013 - Part WP22002263

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    Light Bulb

    Part #3406124

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  • Lint Screen for Kenmore 11061202013 - Part W11778253

    Top and console parts diagram

    Dryer Lint Screen

    Part #8559787

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drum Front Bearing for Kenmore 11061202013 - Part 279441

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Bearing Ring

    Part #692526

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  • Dryer Tri-ring Retainer for Kenmore 11061202013 - Part WPW10512946

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Dryer Support Roller Tri-ring Washer

    Part #W10512946

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drum Support Roller Shaft for Kenmore 11061202013 - Part WPW10359270

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Dryer Drum Support Roller Shaft

    Part #W10359270

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  • Dryer Lint Duct Housing Seal for Kenmore 11061202013 - Part WP339956

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Dryer Lint Screen Housing Foam Seal

    Part #339956

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Kenmore Electric Dryer 11061202013 FAQs

On Kenmore electric dryer model 11061202013, a blown thermal fuse (or thermal cut-off) typically shows up as a dryer that will not run at all, or runs but produces no heat. The most reliable way to know is to unplug the dryer and test the fuse for continuity with a multimeter using the wiring and access steps in the 11061202013 installation guide.

Quick symptoms to look for

  • Dryer will not start even with the door closed and Start pressed firmly
  • Drum does not tumble (no motor sound)
  • Dryer runs but there is no heat (some failures affect heat only)
  • Problem appears after restricted airflow (clogged lint screen or crushed vent)

How we test it (continuity check)

  1. Disconnect power: Unplug the dryer or switch off both dryer breakers.
  2. Access the thermal device: Remove the appropriate panel to reach the heater housing or blower housing (location varies by design).
  3. Remove one wire from the fuse terminal so you do not read back through the circuit.
  4. Set your multimeter to continuity (or lowest ohms).
  5. Touch a probe to each terminal.

What the meter reading means

Meter result What it indicates What to do next
Beep or near 0 ohms Fuse is good Check airflow, thermostats, heater circuit
No beep or OL/infinite Fuse is blown Replace the thermal fuse or thermal cut-off kit

Parts that are commonly involved

On this Kenmore dryer platform, overheating and no-heat issues are often tied to the thermal safety parts and heater circuit. If you are replacing the thermal cut-off, we typically replace the matched kit to restore safe operation.

Why it matters

A thermal fuse or thermal cut-off opens to prevent overheating. If you replace it without fixing the airflow restriction (lint screen, vent duct, outside hood), the new fuse can blow again quickly.

Last updated: February 2026

Your Kenmore dryer “series” is identified from the full model number on the appliance ID tag; for Kenmore 110 models like 11061202013, the first three digits (110) indicate the series/family. On most Kenmore dryers, you’ll find the model and serial tag in the door opening area.

Where to find the model number (fastest checks)

  • Open the dryer door and look around the door opening (cabinet frame) for the ID tag.
  • Check the back panel if you don’t see a tag in the door area.
  • Write down the model number and serial number exactly as shown.
  • Record the purchase and installation dates for your records (the install guide includes a notes section).
  • Use the full model number when ordering parts or looking up diagrams.

How Kenmore “series” works (what the numbers mean)

Kenmore model numbers are typically grouped by a prefix that points to the product family and original manufacturer. For this model:

What you’re looking at Example What it tells you
Series/family prefix 110 Kenmore 110 series dryer family
Full model number 11061202013 Exact configuration for parts and service
Serial number (varies) Production run details (useful for service)

Why it matters

Using the full model number prevents wrong-part orders. Even within the Kenmore 110 series, items like the heating circuit, timer, door switch, and drum support parts can vary by exact model.

Helpful next step

Use the model number to match documentation and specs in the 11061202013 installation guide.

Last updated: February 2026

To reset your Kenmore 11061202013 electric dryer, we recommend doing a simple power reset: turn the dryer off, disconnect power for 1 minute, then restore power and try a timed dry cycle. This clears many control glitches and “won’t start” conditions.

Quick reset steps (safe and effective)

  • Turn the cycle selector to Off.
  • Unplug the dryer (or switch both dryer breakers off).
  • Wait 1 full minute.
  • Restore power.
  • Close the door firmly, then select Timed dry and press Start.

If you are using the installation start-up check, follow the start procedure in the 11061202013 installation guide.

If it still will not start after a reset

The installation instructions list common “no start” checks. Work through these in order:

  • Confirm controls are set to a running/On position and Start is pressed firmly.
  • Verify the dryer is plugged in and the electrical supply is on.
  • Check the door is fully closed; a failed door switch can prevent starting.
  • Check household fuses or breakers; many electric dryers use two fuses or a 2-pole breaker.
  • If the drum light works but the motor will not run, inspect the belt and motor system.

Parts that commonly affect starting

Symptom Most common cause Example part for model 11061202013
No response when pressing Start Door not sensed closed Dryer door switch WP3406107
Hums but drum does not turn Broken belt or seized roller/idler Belt 341241
Runs but shuts off quickly Overheating from restricted venting Lint screen and venting (maintenance)

Why it matters

A reset is fast, but repeated “no start” issues usually point to a door-switch problem, a power supply issue (one leg of 240V missing), or a drive problem like a broken belt. Fixing the root cause prevents overheating, nuisance shutdowns, and longer dry times.

Last updated: February 2026

Kenmore “500 series” dryers come in multiple sizes, so cubic feet depends on the exact model. For your Kenmore 11061202013 electric dryer, the installation instructions confirm it is a 29-inch wide dryer; most 29-inch Kenmore/Whirlpool-built dryers are typically 6.5 to 7.0 cu. ft. Check the capacity listing in the 11061202013 owner's manual.

How to find the exact capacity for your dryer

We recommend using the model-specific documents and the rating label so you get the exact cubic feet for your unit.

  • Look in the Specifications section of the 11061202013 owner's manual.
  • Check the model and serial tag (usually inside the door opening) for a capacity/spec line.
  • If your dryer has multiple drum options, match the spec to your exact model number: 11061202013.
  • If you are comparing dryers, use drum capacity (cu. ft.) plus door opening size and venting setup.

Typical capacity ranges (helpful for comparisons)

Dryer size class Common width Typical capacity
Compact 24 in. 3.4 to 4.0 cu. ft.
Standard 27 in. 6.0 to 7.0 cu. ft.
Large / wide 29 in. 6.5 to 7.4 cu. ft.

Why it matters

Capacity affects how well loads tumble and dry. If you routinely overload a dryer, drying times increase and airflow can suffer, which can contribute to overheating and nuisance trips of safety devices like the thermal cut-off.

The installation guide for this model calls for proper exhaust venting (4-inch heavy metal venting, exhausted outdoors). Poor venting can make a “large capacity” dryer feel small because loads take longer and dry unevenly. See the 11061202013 installation guide for venting requirements.

Last updated: February 2026

For Kenmore electric dryer model 11061202013, the typical total cost to replace the heating element is about $150 to $350 (part plus labor). If you do the repair yourself, the part cost is often the main expense; confirm the correct procedure in the 11061202013 installation guide.

Cost breakdown (parts vs. labor)

Replacement cost depends on whether you hire service and whether other heat-related parts are also needed.

  • DIY parts only: commonly $50 to $120
  • Service call + labor: commonly $100 to $250
  • Extra parts (if overheating caused damage): $15 to $60+
Scenario What you pay for Typical total
DIY element replacement Heating element only $50 to $120
Pro repair (most common) Element + labor $150 to $350
Pro repair with airflow issue Element + vent cleaning/extra parts $200 to $450

Parts that commonly affect “no heat” complaints

A broken heater coil is common, but we also see no-heat symptoms when a safety device opens due to restricted airflow.

  • Heating element (coil open or grounded)
  • Thermal cut-off or thermal fuse (opens from overheating)
  • Operating thermostat or high-limit thermostat
  • House power issue (electric dryers often need two fuses/breakers)

For this model, the heating element is sold as dryer element 279838.

Quick checks before you buy parts

These checks can prevent replacing the wrong part.

  • After the dryer runs 5 minutes, open the door and feel for heat
  • If there is no heat, verify both household fuses/breakers are good (electric dryers can run but not heat on one leg)
  • Clean the lint screen and confirm strong airflow at the exhaust
  • If the dryer overheated, inspect heat-limit parts before installing a new element

Why it matters

A heating element often fails because the dryer runs too hot from poor venting. Fixing airflow issues helps the new element last longer and keeps drying times normal.

Last updated: February 2026

PF on a Kenmore dryer means power failure. On Kenmore model 11061202013, it shows up when incoming power is interrupted during a cycle (a brief outage, a tripped breaker, or a loose power cord connection), and the dryer stops.

What to do when you see PF

  • Press Start to resume the cycle (or reselect the cycle if it cleared).
  • Check your home electrical panel for a tripped double breaker (dryer circuits are typically 240V).
  • Make sure the dryer cord is fully seated in the outlet; do not use an extension cord.
  • If PF returns, inspect the outlet and cord for heat damage; replace damaged components.
  • Review the electrical connection requirements in the 11061202013 installation guide.

Quick checks: power issue vs. dryer issue

What you notice Most likely cause What we recommend
Clock/display reset, PF appears after storm Utility outage or brief power drop Resume cycle; monitor for repeats
PF happens when dryer starts heating Weak breaker, loose terminal block connection Check breaker and cord/terminal connections
PF happens randomly, outlet feels warm Worn outlet or cord, poor contact Stop using; have outlet/cord serviced

Why it matters

A repeated PF code is more than an inconvenience; unstable power can cause nuisance shutdowns and can overheat wiring connections. Fixing the power supply issue helps protect the dryer’s timer, control board, and wiring.

Last updated: February 2026

For the Kenmore 11061202013 electric dryer, the cabinet size is about 43 3/8 in. high x 29 in. wide x 27 3/4 in. deep (depth varies slightly by door style). For exact fit planning, we use the dimensions shown in the 11061202013 installation guide.

Dimensions you can plan around

These are the key measurements typically used for installation clearances and alcove or closet planning:

  • Height: 43 3/8 in. (about 1102 mm)
  • Width: 29 in. (about 737 mm)
  • Depth: 27 3/4 in. (about 705 mm)
  • Recommended side clearance: about 1 in. on each side (helps reduce noise transfer)
  • Typical rear clearance for venting: at least 5 1/2 in. behind the dryer (for vent and elbow)

Door style can affect “depth” expectations

The installation instructions show two door configurations (side-swing and hamper-style). That is why depth can look slightly different depending on how you measure (cabinet only vs. door closed vs. handle).

What you measure What it means Best for
Cabinet depth Dryer body only Closet depth planning
Overall depth (door closed) Cabinet plus door/handle Walkway clearance
Door swing clearance Space needed to open door fully Laundry room layout

Why it matters

Correct sizing prevents common install problems like a crushed exhaust vent, a door that cannot open fully, or a dryer that sits too far forward. It also helps airflow, which improves drying performance and reduces overheating risk.

Quick install checks (before you move it in)

  • Confirm you have a separate 30-amp circuit for this electric dryer.
  • Make sure the floor is sturdy and reasonably level.
  • Plan vent routing so the dryer can sit back without kinking the duct.
  • Allow enough room for the door to open fully.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your dryers

Choose a symptom to see related dryer repairs.

Main causes: bad gas valve coils, broken heating element, tripped safety thermostat or fuse, bad operating thermostat, c…

Main causes: clogged exhaust system, heating system failure, deposits on moisture sensor, control system failure…

Main causes: clogged exhaust vent, bad motor relay, loose dryer door catch, bad door switch, control system failure, fau…

Main causes: door switch failure, lack of power, broken belt, blown thermal fuse, bad drive motor, control system failur…

Main causes: damaged door strike, worn door catch…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, blown thermal fuse, bad door s…

Main causes: bad timer or electronic control board, door switch failure…

Main causes: bad drum support roller, damaged idler pulley, broken blower fan blade, worn drum glide bearing, bad drive …

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