Samsung RF28HFEDTSR/AA-00 refrigerator Parts

A 28 cu. ft. refrigerator is usually about 36 inches wide, around 70 inches tall, and roughly 34 to 36 inches deep (depth varies most depending on handles and door style). For your Samsung RF28HFEDTSR, we recommend confirming the exact cutout and clearance measurements in the RF28HFEDTSR manual.

Typical size range you can plan around

Most 28 cu. ft. French door and side-by-side refrigerators fall into these planning ranges:

• Width: 35 3/4 to 36 inches
• Height: 69 to 70 inches
• Depth: 34 to 36 inches (often listed without handles)
• Door swing clearance: varies by hinge design and handle depth
• Ventilation clearance: space needed behind/above for airflow

What to measure before you buy or move one

Even when the cabinet size is similar, installation fit depends on clearances.

• Measure the opening width at the front and back
• Measure height to the lowest cabinet/trim above the refrigerator
• Measure depth to the wall and note baseboards
• Confirm door swing will clear walls and islands
• Plan a path for delivery (doorways, hallways, turns)

Quick planning table (common 28 cu. ft. expectations)

Measurement	Typical planning value	What changes it most
Width	~36 in.	door style, trim kits
Height	~70 in.	hinge cover, leveling legs
Depth	34 to 36 in.	handles, door thickness

Why it matters

A refrigerator that is only 1 inch too tall or too deep can prevent proper ventilation, cause doors to hit cabinets, or keep drawers from opening fully. Using the model-specific installation clearances helps avoid fit issues and cooling performance problems.

Last updated: January 2026

For Samsung refrigerators like model RF28HFEDTSR, the most common issues we see are cooling problems (warm fridge or freezer), ice maker troubles (no ice or clumping), and water leaks. These symptoms often trace back to airflow restrictions from frost buildup, fan problems, or temperature control and sealed-system concerns.

What “most common” usually looks like in real use

These are the complaint patterns that show up most often across Samsung bottom-mount and French door designs:

• Fridge section warms up but freezer seems OK (airflow or evaporator frost issue)
• Ice maker stops producing, freezes up, or makes small/clumped cubes
• Water under crisper drawers or on the floor (defrost drain or water line issue)
• Loud humming, buzzing, or rattling (fan, ice room, or compressor area)
• Unit runs constantly and struggles to reach set temperature

For model-specific operating checks (controls, modes, alarms), we follow the steps in the RF28HFEDTSR manual.

Quick triage: match the symptom to the likely system

Symptom	Most likely system	First checks we recommend
Fresh food warm, freezer cold	Airflow/evaporator frost	Check vents blocked by food; listen for evaporator fan
Both sections warm	Sealed system or compressor circuit	Verify condenser area airflow; check for error codes
Water pooling inside	Defrost drain	Inspect for ice clogging; clear drain path
No ice	Ice maker/water supply	Confirm water pressure; check filter and fill tube

When the compressor becomes the focus

If the refrigerator cannot cool at all, runs continuously, or you hear repeated start attempts, the sealed system and compressor circuit become higher on the suspect list. For this model, a compatible replacement is the Samsung refrigerator compressor MKV190CL2BASH.

Why it matters

Cooling and ice maker symptoms can look similar, but the fix can be very different. Identifying whether the issue is airflow (frost or fan), water supply (filter/valve), or the sealed system helps avoid unnecessary parts replacement and reduces food spoilage risk.

Last updated: January 2026

Ice forming on the bottom of your Samsung RF28HFEDTSR is usually caused by moisture getting into the freezer and then refreezing, or by defrost water not draining correctly and freezing in the lowest area. We start by checking door sealing, airflow, and the defrost drain path using the RF28HFEDTSR manual.

Most common causes (and what to check first)

• Door not sealing tightly: torn gasket, food packages blocking the door, or a door slightly out of alignment.
• Frequent door openings: humid kitchen air enters, then freezes on the coldest surfaces.
• Blocked or frozen defrost drain: meltwater cannot flow to the drain pan, so it refreezes at the bottom.
• Poor airflow: overpacked freezer or blocked vents can create cold spots that promote icing.
• Warm items placed in freezer: extra moisture and heat load increases frost and ice.

Quick troubleshooting steps for RF28HFEDTSR

1. Inspect the door gasket for gaps, rips, or areas that do not contact the cabinet evenly.
2. Do a paper test: close the door on a sheet of paper; if it slides out easily, sealing is weak.
3. Clear vents and improve airflow: keep items from touching the rear wall and vent openings.
4. Check for drain symptoms: recurring ice sheet on the freezer floor often points to a drain issue.
5. Defrost and dry: unplug the refrigerator, remove food, and let the freezer fully defrost; then dry the compartment and restart.

Symptom-to-cause guide

What you see	Most likely cause	Best first action
Ice sheet on freezer floor	Defrost drain restricted/frozen	Full defrost; then check drain path
Frost around door edges	Door gasket leak or door misalignment	Inspect gasket; adjust door alignment
Ice buildup after heavy use	Humid air intrusion	Reduce door-open time; verify seal
Uneven frost patterns	Airflow restriction	Repack to open vents

Why it matters

Ice on the bottom can block airflow, reduce cooling performance, and lead to water leaks when it melts. Fixing the air leak or drain issue early helps protect food temperatures and reduces compressor run time.

Last updated: January 2026