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Kenmore 11062852101 dryer

Kenmore 11062852101 dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 11062852101 dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 11062852101 Dryer

  • Commercial Laundry Appliance Screw for Kenmore 11062852101 - Part WPW10139210

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    Screw

    Part #3390646

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  • Dryer Cabinet Clip for Kenmore 11062852101 - Part WP98234

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    Dryer Cabinet Clip

    Part #98234

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  • Dryer Cabinet for Kenmore 11062852101 - Part 8533643

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    Cabinet

    Part #8530603

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  • Appliance Porcelain Touch-up Paint, 1-qt (white) for Kenmore 11062852101 - Part 799344

    #NI07

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    Paint (white)

    Part #799344

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  • Dryer Lint Chute Seal for Kenmore 11062852101 - Part W11415783

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    Dryer Lint Chute Seal

    Part #347139

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  • Dryer Drum Light Lens for Kenmore 11062852101 - Part W11226088

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    Lens

    Part #3402841

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  • Washer Leveling Leg Lock Nut for Kenmore 11062852101 - Part WP3359452

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    Washer Leveling Leg Locking Nut

    Part #3359452

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  • Dryer Door Strike for Kenmore 11062852101 - Part W11429589

    Cabinet diagram

    Dryer Door Strike

    Part #3403431

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  • Dryer Top Hinge for Kenmore 11062852101 - Part WP8066217

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    Hinge

    Part #238088

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  • Cabinet for Kenmore 11062852101 - Part 8530606

    Cabinet diagram

    Cabinet

    Part #8530606

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Kenmore Dryer 11062852101 FAQs

If your Kenmore dryer model 11062852101 runs but produces little or no heat, the heating element is a top suspect, especially when the dryer has proper power and airflow. We confirm it by checking for heat early in a cycle, then testing the element for continuity with a multimeter.

Quick signs the heating element is failing

  • Dryer tumbles normally but clothes stay damp or cold
  • Dry times suddenly get much longer
  • No heat on any heated cycle (but “Air/Fluff” still blows air)
  • Burning smell or visible damage inside the heater housing (unplug first)
  • Breaker trips when heat should turn on (often a shorted element)

Simple heat check (matches the installation guide)

  1. Start a full heat cycle (not an air cycle).
  2. Let it run about 5 minutes.
  3. Open the door and feel for heat.

If there is no heat, first verify the electrical supply: many electric dryers use two fuses or two breakers, and one can trip while the motor still runs. Use the installation guide steps for safe power checks.

Multimeter test: what readings mean

Disconnect power before testing.

Test What you should see What “bad” looks like
Element continuity (across terminals) Continuity (typically low resistance) Open circuit (no continuity)
Element to metal housing (short test) No continuity Continuity to housing (shorted)

If the element tests bad: the correct replacement part

For model 11062852101, the heating element commonly replaced is the dryer element 279838.

Before installing a new element, we also recommend checking the overheat protection parts and airflow, because restricted venting can overheat and damage the heater.

Why it matters

A weak or shorted heating element can cause long dry times, repeated thermal shutdowns, or overheating. Fixing the root cause (power supply, vent restriction, failed thermostat or thermal cut-off) helps the new heater last.

Last updated: February 2026

On the Kenmore 11062852101 dryer, a blown thermal fuse typically stops the dryer from running at all, or it can allow the drum to tumble but prevent heat. The fuse is a safety device that opens when the dryer overheats, often due to restricted airflow.

What you’ll usually see when the thermal fuse blows

  • Dryer will not start (most common on many Kenmore 110-style designs)
  • Drum tumbles but there’s no heat (some designs cut power only to the heating circuit)
  • Cycle runs but clothes stay cold and damp
  • The problem returns quickly if the venting is still clogged

Quick checks before replacing parts

Disconnect power to the dryer first.

  • Confirm the door fully closes and the latch engages
  • Verify the house power supply is correct (many electric dryers use two fuses or two breakers; if one trips, the dryer can run but not heat)
  • Check airflow: clean the lint screen, inspect the vent hose for kinks, and make sure the outside vent hood opens freely
  • If the dryer runs but does not heat, inspect the heating circuit components (thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, heating element)

Parts that commonly get replaced together

If overheating caused the failure, we fix the airflow issue first, then replace the failed safety part(s) so the dryer heats safely again.

Symptom Common cause Part often involved
Won’t start Open safety fuse in motor circuit Thermal fuse (varies by configuration)
Runs, no heat Open safety device in heater circuit Dryer thermal cut-off fuse kit 279816
Runs, weak or no heat Heater circuit failure Dryer element 279838
Overheats, shuts down Airflow restriction or thermostat issue Dryer high-limit thermostat WP3977767

Why it matters

A thermal fuse blows to prevent dangerous overheating. Replacing the fuse without correcting vent restriction can cause repeat failures and longer dry times.

Where to find model-specific guidance

For wiring, installation checks, and startup troubleshooting steps (including verifying both breakers/fuses), use the installation guide.

Last updated: February 2026

To hard reset your Kenmore dryer model 11062852101, we recommend disconnecting power (unplug the dryer or switch the breaker off) for about 1 to 5 minutes, then restoring power and starting a cycle again. This clears many temporary control and cycle glitches.

Hard reset steps (safe and effective)

  • Turn the dryer OFF.
  • Unplug the power cord (or turn both dryer breakers OFF if your home uses a 2-pole breaker setup).
  • Wait 1 to 5 minutes.
  • Restore power.
  • Close the door fully and press Start firmly.
  • Run a short timed dry cycle to confirm normal operation.

If it still will not start after a reset

The installation instructions for this dryer point to a few basics that commonly stop a dryer from starting:

  • Controls are set to a running or On position.
  • Start was pushed firmly.
  • Dryer is plugged into a grounded outlet and power is on.
  • House fuse is intact and tight, or the breaker has not tripped.
  • Dryer door is closed (a failed door switch can mimic an open door).

If the door feels closed but the dryer acts like it is open, the door switch is a common fix: dryer door switch WP3406107.

Quick checks that prevent repeat “lockups”

Restricted airflow can overheat a dryer and cause cycling problems, long dry times, or no-heat symptoms. During installation, we use the straightest vent path possible and avoid crushing or kinking the vent.

  • Clean the lint screen before every load.
  • Check the vent hose behind the dryer for kinks or crushing.
  • Make sure all vent joints are clamped and sealed (no screws protruding into the duct).
  • Confirm the outside exhaust hood opens freely.

What the reset does (and does not do)

What a hard reset can fix What it will not fix
Temporary electronic glitches A broken belt or seized drum
Stuck cycle logic A failed heating circuit part
Unresponsive start after a power blip A bad door switch or timer

Why it matters

A hard reset is fast, safe, and often restores normal operation. If the dryer still will not start, focusing on power supply, door closure, and airflow gives you the quickest path to a reliable repair using model-correct parts.

For model-specific operating details and cycle behavior, use the 11062852101 owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

Yes, it’s usually worth replacing the heating element in your Kenmore dryer model 11062852101 when the dryer still tumbles normally and the rest of the machine is in good shape. A heating element replacement typically restores heat for far less than the cost of replacing the entire dryer.

When replacing the heating element makes sense

We recommend replacing the heating element when you see heat-related symptoms but the dryer is otherwise reliable:

  • The drum turns, but clothes stay cold or take much longer to dry
  • You can run the dryer for 5 minutes and feel little to no heat when you open the door
  • The dryer has good airflow (lint screen and vent are clear) but still does not heat
  • The dryer is not showing signs of major mechanical wear (loud squealing, grinding, or a slipping drum)

A common replacement for no-heat on this model is the dryer element 279838.

What to check before you buy a heating element

A “no heat” complaint is not always the element. Use these quick checks first:

  • Confirm the dryer is on a heat cycle (not an air or no-heat setting)
  • Check the home electrical supply; many electric dryers need two breakers/fuses and one can trip while the motor still runs
  • Verify the vent is not crushed or kinked and the lint screen housing is clear
  • If the dryer overheated previously, inspect heat safety parts (thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat)

If overheating or a blown safety device is suspected, the dryer thermal cut-off fuse kit 279816 and the dryer high-limit thermostat WP3977767 are commonly involved.

Cost and repair value comparison

Option Typical outcome Best for
Replace heating element Restores heat and normal dry times Dryer tumbles and is in good overall condition
Replace element plus safety parts Prevents repeat failures from overheating Burnt smell, repeated no-heat, restricted vent history
Replace dryer New appliance, higher cost Multiple major failures (motor, drum support, timer)

Why it matters

Running an electric dryer that does not heat wastes time and electricity, and repeated overheating can damage wiring and safety components. Following the setup and heat-check steps in the installation guide helps confirm whether the issue is heat production or power/venting.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your dryers

Choose a symptom to see related dryer repairs.

Main causes: bad gas valve coils, broken heating element, tripped safety thermostat or fuse, bad operating thermostat, c…

Main causes: clogged exhaust system, heating system failure, deposits on moisture sensor, control system failure…

Main causes: clogged exhaust vent, bad motor relay, loose dryer door catch, bad door switch, control system failure, fau…

Main causes: door switch failure, lack of power, broken belt, blown thermal fuse, bad drive motor, control system failur…

Main causes: damaged door strike, worn door catch…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, blown thermal fuse, bad door s…

Main causes: bad timer or electronic control board, door switch failure…

Main causes: bad drum support roller, damaged idler pulley, broken blower fan blade, worn drum glide bearing, bad drive …

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