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Kenmore 11020022011 washer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 11020022011 washer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

Kenmore 11020022011 washer
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Browse Parts for 11020022011 Washer

  • Refrigerator Screw for Kenmore 11020022011 - Part WP489128

    Top and cabinet parts diagram

    Screw

    Part #W10142728

    Replaced by #WP489128

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  • Appliance Screw for Kenmore 11020022011 - Part WP489069

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #1157158

    Replaced by #WP489069

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  • Washer Screw for Kenmore 11020022011 - Part WPW10273971

    Top and cabinet parts diagram

    Washer Screw

    Part #W10273971

    Replaced by #WPW10273971

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  • Washer Tub Fill Nozzle for Kenmore 11020022011 - Part WPW10441423

    Controls and water inlet parts diagram

    Break

    Part #W10334611

    Replaced by #WPW10441423

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  • Washer Tub Seal Assembly for Kenmore 11020022011 - Part W10324647

    Basket and tub parts diagram

    Washer Tub Seal

    Part #W10006371

    Replaced by #W10324647

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  • Nut Washer for Kenmore 11020022011 - Part W10759923

    Gearcase, motor and pump parts diagram

    Washer Pulley Nut

    Part #W10163336

    Replaced by #W10759923

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  • Washer Water Temperature Switch for Kenmore 11020022011 - Part WPW10285512

    Controls and water inlet parts diagram

    Washer Water Temperature Control Switch

    Part #W10285512

    Replaced by #WPW10285512

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  • Appliance Porcelain Touch-up Paint, 1-qt (white) for Kenmore 11020022011 - Part 799344

    Optional parts (not included) diagram

    Paint (white)

    Part #799344

    Replaced by #799344

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  • Washer Screw for Kenmore 11020022011 - Part WPW10119828

    Top and cabinet parts diagram

    Screw

    Part #W10119872

    Replaced by #WPW10119828

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  • Washer Agitator Cap for Kenmore 11020022011 - Part WP3362061

    Basket and tub parts diagram

    Cap

    Part #63973

    Replaced by #WP3362061

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Kenmore Washer 11020022011 FAQs

Kenmore washer model 11020022011 is a top-load design; washers in this Kenmore 110 platform typically fall around 3.2 to 3.5 cu. ft. capacity. For the exact rated capacity for your specific unit, we recommend confirming it in the 11020022011 owner's manual.

How to confirm the exact capacity

Capacity is usually listed in the specifications section or product details area of the manual.

  • Check the Specifications or Product dimensions section
  • Look for terms like capacity, basket volume, or tub capacity
  • If your manual lists only dimensions/clearances, use the model number to match the correct spec sheet
  • If you are comparing to another washer, compare cu. ft. and basket diameter/depth
Typical capacity range for Kenmore 110 top-load washers

These are common real-world ranges for this style of Kenmore (Whirlpool-built) top-load washer.

Washer type (common for Kenmore 110) Typical capacity range What you will notice
Standard top-load (agitator) 3.0 to 3.6 cu. ft. Smaller loads, higher water level options
Larger-capacity top-load 3.8 to 4.3+ cu. ft. Bulkier items fit easier, larger basket
Why it matters

Knowing the cubic feet helps us recommend the right cycle settings and loading level, and it also helps when comparing replacement parts that relate to the wash basket and drive system (for example, an agitator or drive components).

Related parts that affect load handling (not capacity)

These parts do not change cubic feet, but they can affect agitation and spin performance when the washer is loaded.

Last updated: February 2026

Your Kenmore washer model number is the ID we use to match the correct parts and instructions for your exact washer. For Kenmore model 11020022011, the model tag is typically on the cabinet frame under the lid, on the rear panel, or near the control area; confirm it against the 11020022011 owner's manual.

Where to look on Kenmore washers

Check these common locations for the model and serial tag (usually a sticker or metal plate):

  • Top-load washers: under the lid on the rim of the opening, or on the cabinet frame near the tub
  • Front-load washers: inside the door opening around the door frame
  • All styles: on the back panel near the power cord entry, or behind/near the control console
  • If the tag is worn: look for a second label on the cabinet side or rear
What the model number should look like

Kenmore model numbers often start with a 3-digit prefix (commonly 110 on many Kenmore washers) followed by additional digits.

What you see What it means What to do next
110.20022011 (with a dot) Same model number format Use it as 11020022011 when searching parts
11020022011 (no dot) Full model number Match parts and diagrams to this exact number
Only a serial number Not enough to identify parts Keep looking for the model tag
Tips to avoid ordering the wrong part
  • Copy the model number exactly as printed (include all digits)
  • Use the model number, not the cycle names on the console
  • If you are between two close numbers, verify using the diagrams and the 11020022011 installation guide
  • When troubleshooting, note symptoms (won’t spin, won’t drain, lid won’t lock) before choosing parts
Why it matters

Kenmore washers can look similar across multiple model series, but internal components (like the lid lock, drive system, and drain pump) can differ. Using the exact model number ensures the right fit, correct installation steps, and fewer returns.

Last updated: February 2026

A Kenmore washer typically lasts 10 to 15 years with normal household use. For your Kenmore 11020022011 top-load washer, correct installation, keeping it level, and avoiding chronic overloading are the biggest factors that help it reach the longer end of that range; see the 11020022011 installation guide for setup basics.

What affects lifespan the most
  • Load size and balance: frequent overloading strains the drive system and suspension.
  • Leveling and floor support: an unlevel washer vibrates more and wears parts faster.
  • Water quality and detergent use: excess suds and mineral buildup increase wear.
  • Drain performance: slow draining makes the pump work harder and can leave residue.
  • Lid lock and cycle interruptions: repeated stops and restarts add stress to controls.
Quick maintenance habits that add years
  • Keep loads evenly distributed; wash bulky items in smaller loads.
  • Use the right amount of HE detergent (too much causes oversudsing).
  • Periodically run a clean washer cycle (or hot wash with washer cleaner).
  • Check fill hoses for bulges or leaks and replace as needed.
  • If you hear squealing or see poor agitation, inspect the drive system early.
Common wear items vs. “end of life” repairs
Symptom Often a wear item Example part for 11020022011 When it becomes a bigger repair
Won’t drain or drains slowly Drain pump Washer drain pump assembly WPW10276397 Repeated clogs, leaks, or motor damage
Won’t spin or agitates poorly Belt or actuator Washer drive belt WPW10006384 Gear case or motor issues
Lid won’t lock, won’t start Lid lock Washer lid lock assembly W10404050 Control or wiring problems
Why it matters

Knowing the typical 10 to 15 year lifespan helps you decide whether to maintain and replace common parts (belt, pump, lid lock) or plan for a larger repair. A washer that is installed on a solid, level floor and used within capacity usually runs quieter, spins better, and lasts longer.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your washers

Choose a symptom to see related washer repairs.

Main causes: clogged drain hose, house drain clogged, bad drain pump, water-level pressure switch failure, bad control b…

Main causes: broken lid switch or lid lock, bad pressure switch, broken shifter assembly, faulty control system…

Main causes: worn agitator dogs, bad clutch, broken motor coupler, shifter assembly failure, broken door lock, suspensio…

Main causes: water heater failure, bad water temperature switch, faulty control board, bad water valve, faulty water tem…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, wiring failure, bad power cord, electronic control board failure, bad user interf…

Main causes: no water supply, bad water valves, water-level pressure switch failure, control system failure, bad door lo…

Main causes: unbalanced load, loose spanner nut, worn drive block, broken shock absorber or suspension spring, debris in…

Main causes: leaky water inlet valve, faulty water-level pressure switch, bad electronic control board…

Main causes: bad lid switch or door lock, bad timer or electronic control board, wiring failure, bad water inlet valve a…

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