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Kenmore 11073932101 gas dryer

Kenmore 11073932101 gas dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 11073932101 gas dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 11073932101 Gas Dryer

  • Dryer Screw for Kenmore 11073932101 - Part WPW10109200

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    Screw

    Part #97787

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  • Dryer Door Hinge for Kenmore 11073932101 - Part WP3387560

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    Dryer Door Hinge

    Part #3387560

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  • Baffle Symme for Kenmore 11073932101 - Part W11782150

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    Drum Baffle

    Part #697693

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  • Laundry Center Dryer Transition Duct Seal for Kenmore 11073932101 - Part WP8566209

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    Seal

    Part #697769

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  • Laundry Appliance Control Panel End Cap Set for Kenmore 11073932101 - Part 279954

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    End Cap (white)

    Part #3949274

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  • Laundry Appliance Control Panel End Cap Set for Kenmore 11073932101 - Part 279954

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    End Cap (white)

    Part #3949280

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  • Washer Lid Hinge Bumper for Kenmore 11073932101 - Part WP357213

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    Part #357213

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  • Dryer Bulkhead for Kenmore 11073932101 - Part W11299301

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    Dryer Bulkhead

    Part #8520836

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  • Dryer Burner for Kenmore 11073932101 - Part WP693140

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    Shutter

    Part #688617

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  • Dryer Belt Restrainer for Kenmore 11073932101 - Part WP3393657

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    Dryer Belt Restrainer

    Part #3393657

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Kenmore Gas Dryer 11073932101 FAQs

A bad start switch on your Kenmore gas dryer model 11073932101 usually shows up as a dryer that has power but will not start when you press PUSH TO START, even though the door is fully closed and a cycle is selected. Use the checks in the 11073932101 owner's manual to confirm the basics before testing parts.

Quick checks before blaming the start switch

We recommend ruling out the common “no-start” causes first because they can look exactly like a failed start switch.

  • Confirm the dryer is plugged into a grounded 3-prong outlet.
  • Check the house fuse(s) or breaker(s); many dryers use two.
  • Make sure the dryer door is firmly closed (a door switch issue can mimic a bad start switch).
  • Verify a cycle is selected and the control is not set to OFF.
  • Press and hold PUSH TO START firmly for 2 to 5 seconds.
Symptoms that point to a bad start switch

If the basics above check out, these signs commonly indicate the start switch is failing.

  • You hear nothing (no click, no motor hum) when pressing PUSH TO START.
  • The dryer starts only if you press extremely hard or wiggle the button.
  • The dryer starts intermittently with the same settings and load.
  • The button feels loose, sticks, or does not return normally.
How we test it (safe, practical approach)

Start-switch testing requires access to the console and electrical checks.

Test What you do What it means
Basic function check Door closed, cycle selected, press PUSH TO START No response suggests a start circuit problem
Continuity test (power off) Unplug dryer, remove console access, meter the switch No continuity when pressed indicates a failed switch
Compare with door switch behavior Open door while trying to start If door switch is inconsistent, address that first
Why it matters

The start switch is part of the dryer’s start circuit. If it is failing, the motor may never energize, so the drum will not turn and the burner system will not run, even though the dryer appears to have power.

Related part to consider

If the dryer will not start and the door does not reliably “register” as closed, the door switch is a common fix on this model: dryer door switch WP3406107.

Last updated: January 2026

On Kenmore gas dryer model 11073932101, a “bad gas valve” usually shows up as no heat even though the drum tumbles, or heat that starts briefly and then quits. First confirm the gas supply shutoff valve is open and the dryer is on a heat cycle per the 11073932101 installation guide.

Quick symptoms that point to a gas valve problem
  • Dryer runs but produces no heat on heated cycles
  • You hear normal ignition attempts, but the burner never stays lit
  • Heat works for a few minutes, then stops until the dryer cools down
  • You smell no gas at the burner area during an ignition attempt (with the cabinet closed)
  • Other basics check out (good airflow, correct cycle, door fully closed)
Rule out the most common “not the valve” causes first

Before replacing the gas valve assembly, we recommend these checks because they are faster and more common:

  • Gas supply shutoff valve is fully open (handle parallel to the pipe)
  • Dryer is not set to Air/Fluff or a no-heat cycle (see the 11073932101 owner’s manual)
  • Exhaust vent is not crushed or clogged (poor airflow can cause overheating and shutdowns)
  • House power is solid (gas dryers still need proper electrical power for ignition)
Fast check table
What you observe Most likely area to check next
Drum tumbles, no heat at all Gas supply valve, igniter, thermal fuse, coils
Heat starts then stops mid-cycle Gas valve coils, venting restriction
Clicking sounds during operation Often normal gas valve operation
Parts that commonly get blamed on the gas valve

On many Kenmore gas dryers, the gas valve coils fail more often than the valve body itself. If your dryer heats briefly and then quits, the dryer gas valve coil kit 279834 is a common fix path.

Why it matters

A dryer that is not heating can be a simple shutoff valve or venting issue, but it can also involve gas ignition components. Confirming the basics first helps restore heat safely and avoids replacing the wrong part.

Last updated: January 2026

For the Kenmore gas dryer model 11073932101, a “hard reset” is simply removing power long enough to clear the control state, then restoring power and restarting a cycle. Unplug the dryer (or switch the breaker off), wait 1 minute, restore power, then select a cycle and press PUSH TO START (see the 11073932101 owner's manual).

Hard reset steps (safe, no tools)
  • Turn the Cycle Selector Control to OFF.
  • Unplug the dryer from the grounded 3-prong outlet (or turn the dryer’s breaker OFF).
  • Wait 60 seconds.
  • Restore power.
  • Close the door, select a cycle and temperature, then press PUSH TO START.
If the dryer still will not start after a reset

A reset will not fix a blown fuse, open door switch, or tripped breaker. Check these common causes first:

  • Confirm the dryer is plugged into a grounded 3-prong outlet.
  • Check the house fuse(s) or circuit breaker(s); many dryers use 2 fuses/breakers.
  • Make sure the dryer door is firmly closed.
  • If the drum light comes on but the dryer will not run, test the door switch.
  • If the dryer overheated previously, check the thermal fuse.
Symptom after reset Most likely area to check Common related part
No lights, no response Power supply, breaker/fuses (home electrical)
Light works, won’t run Door switch, start circuit Dryer door switch WP3406107
Runs but stops, then won’t restart Overheat protection, airflow Dryer thermal fuse WP3390719
Why it matters

Resetting power clears a “stuck” cycle state, but it does not correct the underlying reason a safety circuit opened (like overheating from a blocked vent). If the dryer repeatedly needs resets, focus on airflow and safety devices.

Gas dryer note (heat issues are different)

If the dryer runs but does not heat, a reset usually will not restore heat. For this model, heat problems are more often tied to gas supply, ignition, or burner components (for example, the dryer gas valve coil kit 279834).

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your dryers

Choose a symptom to see related dryer repairs.

Main causes: bad gas valve coils, broken heating element, tripped safety thermostat or fuse, bad operating thermostat, c…

Main causes: clogged exhaust system, heating system failure, deposits on moisture sensor, control system failure…

Main causes: clogged exhaust vent, bad motor relay, loose dryer door catch, bad door switch, control system failure, fau…

Main causes: door switch failure, lack of power, broken belt, blown thermal fuse, bad drive motor, control system failur…

Main causes: damaged door strike, worn door catch…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, blown thermal fuse, bad door s…

Main causes: bad timer or electronic control board, door switch failure…

Main causes: bad drum support roller, damaged idler pulley, broken blower fan blade, worn drum glide bearing, bad drive …

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