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Sears Canada 95052311-0 snow thrower

Sears Canada 95052311-0 snow thrower Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Sears Canada 95052311-0 snow thrower, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 95052311-0 Snowblowers

  • Cable Fr-dr for Sears Canada 95052311-0 - Part 1501123MA

    #740

    All parts diagram

    Trc Dr P1 P2

    Part #1501123

    Replaced by #1501123MA

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  • Wheel Fricti for Sears Canada 95052311-0 - Part 1501435MA

    #212

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    Friction Wheel

    Part #1501435

    Replaced by #1501435MA

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  • Screw for Sears Canada 95052311-0 - Part 703057

    #522

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    Snowblower Shear Bolt

    Part #9524

    Replaced by #703057

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  • Cable Auger for Sears Canada 95052311-0 - Part 761872MA

    #741

    All parts diagram

    Cable, Aug C

    Part #761872

    Replaced by #761872MA

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  • Cable Fr Dri for Sears Canada 95052311-0 - Part 1501122MA

    #762

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    Ower Drive 1

    Part #1501122

    Replaced by #1501122MA

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  • Spacer,slv for Sears Canada 95052311-0 - Part 703058

    #523

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    1/4" Spacer

    Part #3943

    Replaced by #703058

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  • Spring Exten for Sears Canada 95052311-0 - Part 1736469YP

    #234

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    Extension Spring

    Part #165X112

    Replaced by #1736469YP

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  • Retainer Rin for Sears Canada 95052311-0 - Part 337227MA

    #610

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    Snowblower Chute Retainer Ring, Inner

    Part #337227

    Replaced by #337227MA

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  • Wingknob.31- for Sears Canada 95052311-0 - Part 1501260MA

    #597

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    Knob

    Part #57171

    Replaced by #1501260MA

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  • Nut for Sears Canada 95052311-0 - Part 703251

    Lock Nut

    Part #73826

    Replaced by #703251

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Sears Canada Snow Thrower 95052311-0 FAQs

For a typical gas snowblower like the Sears 95052311-0, 5 to 8 HP is a solid fit for smaller driveways and lighter snow, 9 to 12 HP handles most average residential conditions (including wetter snow), and 12+ HP is best for large areas, deep drifts, and heavy plow berms where extra torque helps prevent clogging.

Quick sizing guide (HP and what it’s good for)

  • 5 to 8 HP: small driveways, lighter snowfall, shorter run times
  • 9 to 12 HP: most suburban driveways, moderate to heavy snow, better wet-snow performance
  • 12+ HP: long driveways, frequent heavy snow, deep drifts, packed end-of-driveway berms
  • If you have slopes: prioritize traction and drive condition as much as engine power
  • If you get wet snow often: power helps, but chute and auger condition matter just as much

Why horsepower is only part of the decision

Horsepower mainly shows up as torque under load. If the machine bogs down, clogs, or struggles to keep the auger and impeller moving in heavy snow, you usually need more usable power or you need to restore the drive and auger system so it can transfer power efficiently.

Common “not enough power” symptoms that are really worn parts

Symptom Often caused by What to check next
Auger slows or stops in snow Worn/slipping belt Inspect and replace the snowblower gas belt 585416MA
Poor drive, weak forward motion Worn friction drive components Inspect the friction wheel system and related pulleys
Squealing, belt dust, inconsistent engagement Idler not tensioning belt Check the idler pulley 1502120MA for wear or binding
Excess vibration or uneven operation Worn bearings, loose hardware Check bearings and fasteners for play

What we recommend for most homeowners

  • Choose the right size for your snowfall and driveway length, not just the biggest engine.
  • Keep the belt and idler system in good shape so the engine’s power reaches the auger.
  • Clear snow in smaller bites in heavy or wet conditions (slower ground speed, partial-width passes).
  • Maintain the machine so it runs at full output (fresh fuel, clean spark plug, correct oil level).

Why it matters

Right-sizing horsepower helps you avoid constant clogging and stalling, but a well-maintained auger and drive system often makes a “mid-HP” snowblower feel dramatically stronger in real snow.

Last updated: February 2026

You can identify the build year of your Sears model 95052311-0 snowblower by decoding the serial number on the ID tag; most formats embed a month/day code plus a single digit for the year within a decade. Once you decode the date, match the decade by the machine’s features and any dated engine label.

Where to find the serial number

Look for an ID tag or sticker on common snowblower locations:

  • Rear of the frame near the wheels
  • Side of the auger housing
  • Under the handle panel or control console
  • Near the engine mounting area
  • On the chassis close to the belt cover

If the tag is dirty or faded, wipe it clean and take a photo; zooming in usually makes characters easier to read.

How to decode the year from the serial number

Snowblower serial formats vary by manufacturer, but these patterns are common:

  • Month/day + year-in-decade: one character indicates month, another indicates day, and a later digit indicates the year (for example, a “1” can mean 2001 or 2011 depending on the product generation).
  • MTD-style date block (common on many snow throwers): a letter can represent the month (A = Jan through L = Dec), followed by digits for day and year-in-decade.

Quick decode checklist

  • Write the serial number exactly as shown (letters and numbers)
  • Identify any month letter (A through L) and the day digits
  • Find the year digit (often the 5th character or within the first date block)
  • Decide the decade by comparing design and parts style

How to choose the correct decade (2000s vs 2010s)

Because many serial numbers only show a single year digit, use these clues to place it in the right decade:

What you check What it tells you Example outcome
Engine label or emissions sticker date Often shows a printed year Confirms 2011 vs 2001
Parts style and hardware Newer revisions often change pulleys, belts, and linkages Helps narrow decade
Service history or purchase records Gives a realistic earliest possible year Confirms timeframe

Why it matters

Knowing the correct year helps us match the right diagrams and replacement parts for your 95052311-0 snowblower, especially for wear items in the drive system and auger engagement.

If you’re already troubleshooting a drive issue while dating the unit, common wear parts to compare include the snowblower gas belt 585416MA and the idler pulley 1502120MA.

Last updated: February 2026

For the Sears 95052311-0 gas snowblower, we recommend using fresh 87-octane regular unleaded gas for normal operation. If you can buy ethanol-free fuel, that matters more than stepping up to 91; premium is mainly helpful when it is ethanol-free and you want to reduce carburetor gumming during storage.

What to use (and what to avoid)

  • Use fresh unleaded gasoline (87 octane is the standard choice for snowblower engines).
  • Choose ethanol-free fuel when available; it stores cleaner and helps prevent varnish in the carburetor.
  • Avoid old gas (gas that has been sitting for weeks or months in a can).
  • Avoid high-ethanol blends (commonly labeled E15 or higher).
  • Add fuel stabilizer any time fuel may sit in the tank or can.

87 vs 91: quick comparison

Option When it makes sense What you gain
87 octane (regular) Everyday snow clearing Correct octane for most small engines; cost-effective
91 octane (premium) Only if it is ethanol-free or you store fuel longer Cleaner storage, fewer deposits (not “more power”)

Why it matters

Most snowblower engines are designed to run on regular fuel; octane is about knock resistance, not power. The bigger reliability issue is fuel quality and ethanol content, which can contribute to hard starting, surging, and carburetor clogging.

If your snowblower is hard to start or surges

Fuel-related problems often show up as rough running or stalling. Before replacing parts, check these basics:

  • Drain and replace old fuel with fresh gas
  • Inspect the fuel line and tank for water or debris
  • Make sure the drive system is not binding (a slipping belt can mimic engine bogging)
  • If the auger or drive is acting up, inspect wear items like the snowblower gas belt 585416MA and pulleys such as the idler pulley 1502120MA

Last updated: February 2026

A typical gas snowblower lasts 10 to 20 years with normal use and consistent maintenance. For the Sears 95052311-0 gas snowblower, routine care (oil changes, belt and drive checks, and off-season storage) is what most often determines whether it lands closer to 10 years or closer to 20.

What most affects lifespan

  • Maintenance frequency: fresh oil, clean fuel practices, and periodic lubrication
  • Drive system wear: belts, pulleys, and friction drive components take the most abuse
  • Storage conditions: dry storage reduces rust, cable seizure, and corrosion
  • Snow conditions: heavy, wet snow and gravel driveways increase wear and impact damage
  • Usage habits: avoiding overload and clearing jams safely prevents premature failures

Common “wear-out” parts that shorten performance first

If your snowblower still starts and runs well but does not move or throw snow like it used to, these are common culprits:

Repair vs. replace: a practical rule of thumb

Use this quick comparison to decide what makes sense.

Situation What it usually means Typical next step
Starts and runs, but will not drive Drive belt or friction drive wear Inspect belt, friction pulley, linkage
Throws weakly, auger engagement inconsistent Belt tension or pulley wear Check belt and idler pulley
Multiple major issues at once Higher total repair cost Price out parts and labor before committing
Frame/auger housing heavily rusted or bent Structural wear Replacement often makes more sense

Why it matters

A gas snowblower can run for decades, but snow-moving performance depends on the drive and auger systems staying tight and properly engaged. Replacing a worn belt or pulley on time often prevents secondary damage and keeps your Sears 95052311-0 clearing snow at full capacity.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your snowblowers

Choose a symptom to see related snowblower repairs.

Main causes: clogged chute, damaged auger blades, broken shear pins, worn auger belt, damaged gear case, engine problems…

Things to do: replace the spark plug, change the oil, rebuild the carburetor, adjust valve lash, adjust or replace the b…

Main causes: dirty carburetor, stale fuel…

Main causes: clogged chute, snow build-up in auger housing, broken auger shear pins, auger drive belt needs adjustment, …

Main causes: broken shear pins, worn or loose auger drive belt, auger drive cable failure, damaged auger, bad gear case…

Main causes: snow build-up in chute, chute drive mechanism failure, bad chute control assembly…

Main causes: loose drive clutch cable, damaged drive clutch cable, worn friction disc, scraper blade scraping the ground…

Main causes: dirty carburetor, clogged fuel filter, dirty spark plug, incorrect valve lash, leaky engine gaskets…

Repair guides for gas snowblowers

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your snowblower.

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How to adjust snowblower skid shoes

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How to rebuild a snowblower carburetor

How to rebuild a snowblower carburetor

Rebuild the carburetor on your snowblower if the engine isn't getting fuel.…

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How to replace a snowblower 4-way chute control assembly

How to replace a snowblower 4-way chute control assembly

Replace the 4-way chute control assembly on your snowblower if it’s damaged.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 30 minutes or less

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