How do I tell if my dryer heating element is bad?
If your Kenmore 11064942300 electric dryer runs but won’t heat (or heats weakly), the heating element is a top suspect. We confirm it by checking power supply first, then inspecting the element for damage and testing the element for continuity with a multimeter.
Quick signs the heating element is failing
- Clothes stay damp after a full timed cycle on high heat
- Dryer tumbles normally but there is no heat at all
- Heat comes and goes during the cycle
- You smell a brief “new heater” odor only on first use after replacement (normal), but persistent burning smells point to a problem
Safe checks to do before testing the element
- Disconnect power at the breaker and unplug the dryer.
- Confirm the dryer is set to a heated cycle (not Air Fluff or No Heat).
- Check airflow basics:
- Clean the lint screen.
- Make sure the vent is not crushed or kinked behind the dryer.
- Verify strong airflow at the outside vent hood.
- Verify the electrical supply: many electric dryers need two breakers/fuses; if one trips, the motor can run but the heater will not.
For model-specific safety and electrical connection details, follow the 11064942300 installation guide.
How to test the heating element (basic multimeter method)
- With power disconnected, access the heater terminals.
- Set the meter to ohms (Ω) or continuity.
- Test across the element terminals:
- Good element: continuity present and a measurable resistance reading
- Bad element: no continuity (open circuit) or infinite resistance
Also inspect the coil visually; a broken or burnt coil usually confirms failure.
What else can mimic a bad element?
| Symptom | Common cause | What to check next |
|---|---|---|
| Tumbles, no heat | Tripped breaker/fuse | Reset both breakers, recheck heat |
| Long dry times | Restricted venting | Vent run, hood flap, lint buildup |
| Heat cuts out | Thermostat/thermal cut-off | Operating thermostat, cut-off kit |
If you need the correct replacement heater for this model, use the dryer heating element WP3387747.
Why it matters
A failed heating element stops drying performance, but restricted airflow or a power-supply issue can create the same “no heat” symptom and can also overheat the dryer and damage thermostats.
Last updated: January 2026
How to tell if a dryer start switch is bad?
A bad start switch on your Kenmore electric dryer model 11064942300 usually shows up as a dryer that has power but will not start when you press PUSH TO START. The most reliable check is a multimeter continuity test with the dryer unplugged, then comparing readings with the button released vs pressed.
Quick checks before testing the switch
Before you pull the console apart, confirm the basics that commonly prevent starting:
- Make sure the controls are set to a running or On position (not Off).
- Press the start button firmly.
- Confirm the dryer is plugged into a grounded outlet.
- Check the house fuses or breakers (many electric dryers use two).
- Verify the dryer door is fully closed (a door switch issue can mimic a bad start switch).
These checks align with the start-up verification steps in the 11064942300 installation guide.
How to test the start switch with a multimeter
- Unplug the dryer (or switch off the breaker).
- Access the start switch in the console (follow the access steps in the 11064942300 owner's manual).
- Label and remove the wires from the switch terminals.
- Set your multimeter to continuity (or lowest ohms).
- Test the switch:
- Button not pressed: meter should read open (no continuity).
- Button pressed: meter should read closed (continuity, near 0 ohms).
What the readings mean
| Multimeter result | What it indicates | Next step |
|---|---|---|
| No change when pressed | Start switch contacts are not closing | Replace the start switch |
| Continuity all the time | Switch is stuck closed | Replace the start switch |
| Switch tests good | Problem is elsewhere in the start circuit | Check door switch, timer, motor circuit |
Other problems that look like a bad start switch
If the switch tests good, these are common next suspects on this model family:
- Door switch not closing (dryer thinks the door is open)
- Timer contacts not sending power in the selected cycle
- Thermal cut-off or other safety device open due to overheating
- Drive motor issue (may hum but not run)
Why it matters
The start switch is a simple on-demand contact; if it fails open, the dryer can have lights and power but never energize the motor circuit. Testing it first prevents replacing larger parts unnecessarily.
Last updated: January 2026
How do I find the model number on my 11064942300?
For Kenmore electric dryer model 11064942300, the model number is printed on the model and serial number label located at the top inside the dryer door well. Open the dryer door fully and look along the upper inside opening where the door closes.
Where to look (fast checklist)
- Open the dryer door
- Look at the top inside edge of the door opening (door well)
- Find the model and serial number label
- Record both the model number and serial number for parts lookup
- Use the full model number exactly as shown (including all digits)
What the label typically includes
| Label item | What it’s used for |
|---|---|
| Model number (11064942300) | Matching the correct parts diagrams and replacement parts |
| Serial number | Identifying production details that can affect part compatibility |
| Purchase date (your record) | Warranty paperwork and service history |
Why it matters
Kenmore dryers often have similar-looking designs across multiple models. Using the exact model number from the door-well label helps ensure you get the right fit for common repairs like a no-heat issue (heating circuit) or a no-start issue (door switch, timer).
Helpful tip for parts and repairs
Once you have the model number, keep it with your paperwork. The 11064942300 owner’s manual also includes a product record section so you can write down the model and serial number in one place.
Last updated: March 2026





