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GE GFE28HSHDSS bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for GE GFE28HSHDSS bottom-mount refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

GE GFE28HSHDSS bottom-mount refrigerator
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Browse Parts for GFE28HSHDSS Refrigerators

  • Ge Profile Refrigerator Temperature Sensor for GE GFE28HSHDSS - Part WR55X10025

    Freezer section diagram

    Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

    Part #WR55X11121

    Replaced by #WR55X10025

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  • Ge Profile Refrigerator Temperature Sensor for GE GFE28HSHDSS - Part WR55X10025

    Case parts diagram

    Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

    Part #WR55X11150

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  • Ge Profile Refrigerator Temperature Sensor for GE GFE28HSHDSS - Part WR55X10025

    Fresh food shelves diagram

    Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

    Part #WR55X11141

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  • Ge Profile Refrigerator Temperature Sensor for GE GFE28HSHDSS - Part WR55X10025

    Case parts diagram

    Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

    Part #WR55X11151

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  • Ge Profile Refrigerator Temperature Sensor for GE GFE28HSHDSS - Part WR55X10025

    Case parts diagram

    Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

    Part #WR55X11153

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  • Ge Profile Refrigerator Temperature Sensor for GE GFE28HSHDSS - Part WR55X10025

    Fresh food section diagram

    Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

    Part #WR55X11152

    Replaced by #WR55X10025

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  • Ge Profile Refrigerator Temperature Sensor for GE GFE28HSHDSS - Part WR55X10025

    Ice maker & dispenser diagram

    Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

    Part #WR55X11142

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  • Board Asm Ma for GE GFE28HSHDSS - Part WR55X46805

    Machine compartment diagram

    Refrigerator Main Board Assembly

    Part #WR55X23069

    Replaced by #WR55X46805

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  • Refrigerator Filter Dryer for GE GFE28HSHDSS - Part WR86X25269

    Machine compartment diagram

    Refrigerator Filter Dryer

    Part #WR86X10089

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GE Bottom-Mount Refrigerator GFE28HSHDSS FAQs

On the GE GFE28HSHDSS bottom-mount refrigerator, the bottom grille (base grille) typically comes off by removing any retaining screws (if present) and then pulling the grille straight out to release the locking tabs. Reinstall by aligning it and sliding it back into place.

Steps to remove the bottom grille

  • Unplug the refrigerator or switch off power at the breaker (recommended whenever hands are near wiring or the condenser fan area).
  • Look along the left and right ends of the grille for Phillips-head screws.
  • If screws are present, remove them and set them aside.
  • Grip the grille near both ends and pull straight outward; if it resists, wiggle gently side-to-side to release the tabs.
  • Lift slightly as needed to clear any lower lip, then remove the grille.
  • To reinstall, align the tabs, slide the grille into position, then reinstall the screws.

What to check while the grille is off (why it matters)

Removing the grille gives you access to areas that affect cooling efficiency and noise. A blocked airflow path can make the compressor run longer and temperatures drift.

  • Vacuum dust from the front intake area.
  • Make sure the grille is not cracked or bowed (warped grilles can pop loose).
  • Listen for rubbing or rattling that could indicate something touching the condenser fan area.
  • Confirm the refrigerator is level; a cabinet that leans can make the grille fit poorly.

Common grille attachment styles (quick comparison)

What you see on the grille What it usually means Removal method
Screws at the ends Screw-retained grille Remove screws, pull outward
No screws, tight fit Tab-retained grille Pull outward to release tabs
Slots or clips underneath Clip-retained grille Pull outward, lift slightly

Model-specific tip

For diagrams and any model-specific fastener locations for GE GFE28HSHDSS, use the GFE28HSHDSS owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

For your GE GFE28HSHDSS bottom-mount refrigerator, we set the freezer to 0°F for safe long-term food storage and consistent ice production. We set the fresh food (refrigerator) section to 37°F as the typical companion setting for balanced cooling; confirm any model-specific recommendations in the GFE28HSHDSS owner's manual.

  • Freezer: 0°F
  • Fresh food section: 37°F
  • Acceptable freezer range: -5°F to 5°F (0°F is the best target)
  • Acceptable fresh food range: 35°F to 38°F
Compartment Best target What happens if too warm What happens if too cold
Freezer 0°F Soft ice cream, frost buildup from frequent cycling, food thawing Excessive dryness, more energy use
Fresh food 37°F Spoilage risk, weak cooling, condensation Produce freezing, drinks slushing

How to dial in the setting (and verify it)

  • Put a thermometer in a glass of water in the fresh food section; check after 24 hours.
  • Put a thermometer between frozen packages in the freezer; check after 24 hours.
  • Adjust in small steps; wait 24 hours between changes.
  • Keep vents clear (blocked vents cause warm spots and freezing in others).
  • Make sure doors seal fully; a poor seal makes temperatures swing.

If the freezer will not hold 0°F

These issues commonly prevent stable freezer temps on GE bottom-mount units:

  • Dirty condenser area restricting airflow
  • Door left ajar or gasket not sealing
  • Heavy frost from a defrost problem (heater, thermostat, or airflow)
  • Weak airflow from the evaporator fan
  • Sensor or control issue

If temperatures drift or you see error codes, use the GE refrigerator error codes guide. If you suspect a temperature-sensing problem, the refrigerator temperature sensor WR55X10025 is a common part involved in temperature feedback.

Why it matters

0°F slows bacterial growth and keeps food quality stable; 37°F in the fresh food section helps prevent spoilage without freezing produce. Stable settings also reduce compressor run time and help your ice maker keep up.

Last updated: February 2026

Yes. GE Café is considered a high-end (premium) appliance line within the GE family; it typically sits above standard GE models with upgraded design, finishes, and feature sets, while GE Monogram is positioned as GE’s luxury tier. For model-specific feature comparisons, use the GFE28HSHDSS owner's manual.

GE Café vs GE Monogram: what “high end” means

Both lines target premium kitchens, but they focus on different priorities.

  • GE Café: premium styling and features at a high-end price point
  • GE Monogram: luxury positioning, more built-in options, and more customization
  • Standard GE: mainstream features and pricing
  • GE Profile: premium features and performance, typically below Café in styling focus
Line Market tier Typical focus
GE Mainstream Value, core features
GE Profile Premium Performance and smart features
GE Café High end Design-forward finishes and feature upgrades
GE Monogram Luxury Built-in integration and luxury options

How this relates to your GE GFE28HSHDSS refrigerator

Your GE GFE28HSHDSS is a bottom-mount refrigerator model; “high end” depends on the exact configuration (capacity, dispenser, ice system, controls, and finish). When you are comparing it to Café models, focus on the features that affect daily use.

  • Interior layout and storage flexibility
  • Ice maker and dispenser performance
  • Temperature management and sensors
  • Filtration and water system design
  • Control interface and diagnostics

Why it matters

Knowing the tier helps set expectations for fit and finish, feature availability, and parts pricing. For example, premium models often use more specialized electronics and sensors, such as a refrigerator main board assembly WR55X46805 or a refrigerator temperature sensor WR55X10025, which can affect repair cost and troubleshooting steps.

Last updated: February 2026

A 28-inch-wide refrigerator is typically about 16 to 18 cubic feet, but capacity varies by style and cabinet depth. For your GE GFE28HSHDSS bottom-mount refrigerator, we recommend confirming the exact listed capacity in the GFE28HSHDSS owner's manual.

Typical capacity by 28-inch width (what to expect)

Most 28-inch-wide refrigerators fall into these common ranges:

  • Top-freezer: about 14 to 18 cu. ft.
  • Bottom-freezer: about 16 to 20 cu. ft.
  • Counter-depth models: often lower capacity than standard-depth at the same width
  • Ice maker and in-door ice: can reduce usable space
  • Thicker insulation and door bins: can also reduce usable space
Refrigerator style Typical 28-inch width capacity Notes
Top-freezer 14 to 18 cu. ft. Often the best capacity per inch
Bottom-freezer 16 to 20 cu. ft. More fresh-food space up top
Counter-depth (any style) 14 to 18 cu. ft. Shallower cabinet reduces volume

Why width does not equal capacity

Two refrigerators can both be 28 inches wide and still have different cubic feet because capacity depends on:

  • Cabinet depth (standard-depth vs counter-depth)
  • Overall height
  • Wall thickness and insulation
  • Evaporator and air channel design
  • Ice maker and water filter housing (for example, the GE refrigerator water filter RPWFE)

How to confirm the exact cubic feet for GE GFE28HSHDSS

Use these quick checks:

  • Look for “Capacity” in the specifications section of the GFE28HSHDSS owner's manual
  • Check the model and serial tag inside the fresh food compartment to confirm you are matching the correct model number
  • If you are comparing units, compare overall dimensions and listed total capacity side by side

Why it matters

Cubic feet helps you estimate storage, but shelf layout, door bin size, and ice system space often determine how much food you can actually fit day to day.

Last updated: February 2026

Your GE refrigerator model number is the ID we use to match the correct parts, diagrams, and specifications for your exact refrigerator. For GE model GFE28HSHDSS, the letters and numbers identify the product family and feature set, while the ending letters typically indicate the finish or design series; confirm the exact breakdown in the GFE28HSHDSS owner's manual.

Where to find the model number on your refrigerator

We recommend using the model and serial tag, not the sales receipt.

  • Open the fresh food (refrigerator) doors and look along the side wall near the crisper area
  • Check the ceiling area inside the fresh food compartment
  • Look behind the lower freezer drawer front (some models place the tag on the cabinet frame)
  • Write the model number exactly as shown, including all letters
  • Take a photo of the tag before ordering parts

How to interpret a GE model number (what the characters usually mean)

GE model numbers are structured so the beginning identifies the platform, and later characters narrow down features and finish.

Section of model number What it typically tells you Why it matters
Leading letters (example: GF) Product family/series Helps match the correct parts diagrams and service info
Middle numbers (example: E28) Size class or capacity family Helps confirm shelves, drawers, and door bin fit
Remaining letters (example: HSHDSS) Feature package and finish series Helps match cosmetic parts and dispenser components

Why it matters when ordering parts

Even small model-number differences can change which control board, sensor, or water filter fits.

Quick tips to avoid common mistakes

  • Do not use only the series name (for example, “GFE28”) when ordering parts
  • Do not swap letters or omit the ending characters
  • If the tag is hard to read, use a flashlight and take a close-up photo

Why it matters: The model number is the fastest way to ensure the right GE parts fit your GFE28HSHDSS bottom-mount refrigerator the first time, especially for electrical and water-system components.

Last updated: February 2026

To remove the bottom shelf in your GE GFE28HSHDSS bottom-mount refrigerator, we typically lift the front edge to clear the shelf stops, then slide the shelf forward and angle it out. If the shelf feels stuck, check for ice buildup or a misaligned shelf track first; see the GFE28HSHDSS owner's manual for your exact shelf style.

Quick steps (most GE bottom shelf designs)

  • Remove food and bins sitting on the shelf.
  • Lift the front of the shelf up about 1 to 2 inches to clear the stops.
  • Slide the shelf straight forward until it reaches the end of the rails.
  • Tilt one side up slightly and pull the shelf out of the compartment.
  • If the shelf has a front trim or glass insert, keep it level to avoid binding.

If the shelf will not lift or slide

Ice, spills, and overloading are the most common reasons a bottom shelf will not come out smoothly.

  • Look for frost or ice along the rear wall or under the shelf; thaw and dry the area.
  • Check that both shelf rails are seated evenly in the side supports.
  • Make sure no drawer, bin, or door gasket is rubbing the shelf edge.
  • Inspect for cracked shelf supports or a warped shelf frame.
  • If the refrigerator is packed tightly, relieve pressure by removing nearby items first.

What you should see (normal vs. problem)

What happens What it usually means What to do
Shelf lifts then slides out Normal shelf stop design Continue removal steps
Shelf will not lift at the front Shelf caught on stop or trim Lift higher, then pull forward
Shelf slides a little then jams Rail misalignment or debris Reseat rails, clean tracks
Shelf frozen in place Moisture turned to ice Defrost, wipe dry

Why it matters

Removing the shelf the right way prevents cracked glass, broken shelf supports, and door alignment issues. It also helps you clean spills that can cause odors and sticking.

If moisture or door sealing issues keep causing sticking or frost, use how to fix a fridge door seal to correct gaps that let humid air in.

Last updated: February 2026

The most common problem we see on GE refrigerators like model GFE28HSHDSS is cooling trouble (warm fresh food section, weak freezing, or temperature swings). In most cases, the root cause is restricted airflow or heat transfer, or a failed cooling-system component such as a fan motor, sensor, or control.

Most common symptoms customers report

  • Refrigerator not cold enough but freezer seems OK
  • Freezer not cold enough or soft ice cream
  • Temperature fluctuates day to day
  • Loud humming, buzzing, or rattling from the back or inside
  • Ice maker or water dispenser problems (slow fill, no ice, small cubes)

Quick checks that fix many “not cooling” complaints

Start with these basics before replacing parts:

  • Set temperatures to typical targets: 37°F fresh food, 0°F freezer
  • Make sure vents are not blocked by food packages
  • Clean dust from the condenser area (dirty coils raise temps)
  • Confirm doors seal fully and close on their own
  • Allow 24 hours after changes for temperatures to stabilize

Common parts that cause cooling issues on this model

If the basics check out, these parts are frequent suspects on a bottom-mount GE:

Symptom Likely area Example part for GFE28HSHDSS
Warm temps, erratic temps Temperature sensing Refrigerator temperature sensor WR55X10025
Warm fresh food, poor airflow Evaporator airflow Refrigerator evaporator fan motor and blade WR60X10352
Random behavior, no consistent cooling pattern Controls/electronics Refrigerator main board assembly WR55X46805

Ice maker and water issues are also very common

Many GE service calls are water-related rather than sealed-system failures. These are the usual causes:

Why it matters

Cooling problems can spoil food quickly, and water-flow problems can lead to weak ice production and dispenser complaints. Doing the simple airflow and cleaning checks first prevents unnecessary part replacement and helps you pinpoint whether you need a sensor, fan, valve, or control.

For model-specific operating details and temperature recommendations, use the GFE28HSHDSS manual.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

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How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

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Replace the water valve that feeds water to the ice maker and water dispenser if it no longer controls the flow of water…

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 15 minutes or less
How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

Help your refrigerator run more efficiently by cleaning the condenser coils. It's easy and takes just a few minutes.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

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Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your refrigerator.

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