Kenmore 11087572602 dryer Parts

For Kenmore dryer model 11087572602, the model number by itself does not identify an exact manufacture year. We date it by using the serial number (from the rating label) and decoding it with the format used for Kenmore 110-series dryers; the 11087572602 owner's manual shows where to find the label.

Where to find the date information

Check the rating label on the dryer cabinet (commonly inside the door opening). You’ll use:

• The serial number (most important for dating)
• The model number (confirms you’re decoding the right format)
• The type (electric or gas), which can affect parts and wiring

How to decode the year (what to look for)

Kenmore 110-prefix dryers are typically built by Whirlpool, and the serial number is what contains the date code. Once you have the serial number, look for a pattern that indicates:

• Manufacturing week (often a 2-digit week)
• Manufacturing year (often a 1- or 2-digit year code)
• Plant code (helps confirm the format)

Quick check table

Use this as a practical way to proceed once you read the label:

What you have	What it tells you	What to do next
Model number only (11087572602)	Identifies the model family	Use the serial number to date it
Serial number	Contains the date code	Decode year and week from the serial
Manual	Shows label location and basic ID info	Confirm label location and safety steps

Why it matters

Knowing the manufacture year helps us match the correct Kenmore parts and revisions (for example, heating and airflow components) and avoid ordering a look-alike part that doesn’t fit your production run.

Last updated: February 2026

For Kenmore dryer model 11087572602, replacing the heating element typically costs about $100 to $350 total when you include the part and professional labor. If you do the repair yourself, you’ll usually pay about $80 to $150 for the heating element and any needed wiring.

Typical cost breakdown

• DIY part cost: commonly $80 to $150 for a heating element assembly
• Optional related parts: $10 to $50 (terminals, wire kit, thermal fuse kit)
• Professional labor: commonly $100 to $250 depending on service rates and access
• Service call/diagnostic fee: sometimes added if not waived with repair

Scenario	What you pay for	Typical total
DIY replacement	Heating element (plus any small parts)	$80 to $200
Pro replacement	Part + labor (and possibly diagnostic)	$100 to $350

Parts that commonly get replaced with the element

If the dryer overheated or had a no-heat issue, we often see these replaced at the same time to prevent repeat failures:

• Dryer heating element WP8544771
• Dryer heating element wire kit 279457
• Dryer thermal cut-off fuse kit 279973

Why the price varies

A heating element job can be quick or more involved depending on what failed and how much disassembly is needed.

Common cost drivers:

• Burned or loose wiring at the heater terminals (adds parts and time)
• A blown thermal cut-off from restricted airflow (adds parts and cleanup)
• Heavy lint buildup inside the cabinet (adds labor)
• Access issues (tight laundry closet, long vent run)

What we recommend before you buy parts

Good airflow protects the new element and helps drying performance.

• Confirm the vent is clear and not crushed
• Clean lint from the lint screen housing and internal ducting
• Follow the cleaning and maintenance steps in the 11087572602 owner's manual

Why it matters

Most repeat heating element failures happen because the dryer overheats from poor venting or lint buildup. Fixing airflow issues first helps the new element last longer and keeps cycle times normal.

Last updated: February 2026

On Kenmore dryer model 11087572602, the model and serial information (often called the ID tag) is typically found on the door opening, usually on the frame just inside the door. That tag is where you’ll find the numbers we use to match the correct replacement parts.

Where to look first

Check these common ID-tag locations on Kenmore dryers:

• On the front frame inside the door opening (most common)
• Along the door opening edge near the lint screen housing
• On the back panel of the dryer cabinet
• Inside the lower front access area (on some designs)

For the exact location and what the label looks like for this dryer, use the 11087572602 owner's manual.

What numbers you should write down

The label can show several different identifiers. Here’s what each one is for.

What you see on the label	What it’s used for	Example format
Model number	Identifies the exact dryer design	11087572602
Serial number	Production code for your specific unit	Letters and numbers
Type or code (if present)	Helps narrow variations	Short code

• Use the model number to look up diagrams and compatible parts.
• Keep the serial number handy when troubleshooting or confirming revisions.
• If the label is worn, take a clear photo and zoom in to read it.

Why it matters

Kenmore dryers can share similar styling across multiple series, but internal parts (like a heating element, thermistor, or drum support components) can differ by model. Using the correct model number helps us match parts like the dryer heating element WP8544771 the first time.

Last updated: February 2026

A blown thermal fuse in your Kenmore dryer model 11087572602 usually shows up as a dryer that will not run at all, or a dryer that tumbles but has no heat. The sure way to know is a continuity test with a multimeter after disconnecting power (steps and access points are in the 11087572602 owner's manual).

Quick symptoms to look for

• Dryer will not start even though the door is closed and controls are set
• Drum turns but there is no heat (common when power is partially lost or a safety device opened)
• Cycle starts then stops quickly (intermittent safety opening)
• You recently had restricted airflow (clogged lint screen or crushed vent)

Confirm it with a multimeter (continuity test)

1. Unplug the dryer (or switch off the breaker) before opening any panels.
2. Access the thermal fuse area (location varies by design; follow the disassembly steps in the 11087572602 owner's manual).
3. Pull the wire connectors off the fuse terminals.
4. Set the meter to continuity or the lowest ohms scale.
5. Touch a probe to each terminal:

• Good fuse: continuity (beep) or near 0 ohms
• Blown fuse: no continuity (no beep) or OL/infinite resistance

Rule out common look-alikes first

Your manual notes that an electric dryer can tumble with no heat if only one side of the 240V supply is present (there are often two household fuses or breakers). Use this quick check before replacing parts.

What you see	Most likely cause	What to do next
Dryer will not run	No power, door switch issue, thermal fuse open	Verify power and door closure; then test fuse
Drum turns, no heat	One breaker tripped, heating circuit issue, airflow restriction	Check both breakers; then inspect venting and test heat components

Why it matters

A thermal fuse is a one-time safety device. If it is blown, we treat it as a warning sign that the dryer overheated, most often from poor airflow (lint buildup, kinked vent, blocked exhaust). Fixing the airflow problem helps prevent repeat failures.

Last updated: February 2026