Kenmore Elite 79573132411 bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

Kenmore Elite refrigerator model 79573132411 is a bottom-mount style refrigerator; its exact exterior dimensions (width, depth, height) are listed in the 79573132411 owner's manual. Most 33-inch-class bottom-mount units are roughly 33 in. wide, 30 to 34 in. deep, and 67 to 70 in. tall.

How to confirm the exact dimensions for model 79573132411

We recommend using the model-specific spec section in the manual and measuring your installation space before moving the refrigerator.

• Check the dimensions section in the 79573132411 owner's manual.
• Measure the cabinet opening: width, depth to the wall, and height to any overhead cabinet.
• Include door and drawer swing clearance; the manual calls out allowing about 24 inches in front to open doors.
• Plan for airflow clearance around the cabinet (tight spacing can reduce cooling performance).
• If you must move it through a narrow opening, the manual notes removing doors is the recommended procedure.

Typical size ranges (helpful for planning)

These ranges help you estimate fit while you confirm the exact numbers in the manual.

Measurement	Typical range for this style	What to measure at home
Width	32 to 34 in.	Smallest cabinet opening width
Depth	30 to 34 in.	From back wall to front of doors/handles
Height	67 to 70 in.	Floor to lowest overhead obstruction

Why it matters

Correct sizing prevents door interference, poor ventilation, and installation surprises. It also helps avoid kinks in the water line if your unit has an ice maker and water filter.

Last updated: January 2026

On Kenmore Elite refrigerator model 79573132411, dH typically points to a defrost heating problem (the refrigerator is not sensing the expected temperature rise during defrost). This often shows up with frost buildup, warm temperatures, or poor airflow; use the 79573132411 owner's manual for model-specific display and troubleshooting guidance.

What to check first (quick, safe steps)

• Power reset: unplug the refrigerator for 5 minutes, then restore power.
• Make sure doors seal tightly and are not being held open by bins or food.
• Look for heavy frost on the freezer back wall (a common sign of a defrost issue).
• Confirm vents are not blocked by packages; blocked airflow can mimic defrost problems.
• If you recently had a power interruption, allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize.

Common causes of a dH/defrost heat issue

A defrost heat problem is usually caused by one of these components not doing its job during the automatic defrost cycle:

What can fail	What you may notice	What it affects
Defrost sensor	Frost returns quickly after a thaw	Defrost timing and temperature feedback
Main control board	Intermittent cooling or repeated error	Sends power to defrost circuit
Wiring/connector issue	Random symptoms, works after moving unit	Power delivery to defrost components

If you see frost buildup and the refrigerator is warming, the defrost sensor is a common suspect on this style of Kenmore (LG-built) bottom-mount.

Parts that may be involved for this model

These are model-listed parts that can relate to temperature sensing and defrost symptoms:

• Refrigerator defrost sensor assembly 6615JB2005N
• Refrigerator electronic control board EBR81182751

Why it matters

When the defrost system does not clear frost from the evaporator, airflow drops. That can make the refrigerator section warm, reduce ice production, and force the compressor to run longer than normal.

Last updated: January 2026

If your Kenmore Elite 79573132411 is warm at the bottom, the most common causes are restricted airflow (blocked vents or an iced-up return path), incorrect control settings, or a cooling system issue that prevents cold air from circulating from the freezer into the fresh-food section. Use the steps below and confirm settings in the 79573132411 owner's manual.

Quick checks that fix most “warm bottom” complaints

• Make sure food packages are not blocking the air vents between the freezer and refrigerator sections.
• Set temperatures to normal targets: 37°F for the refrigerator and 0°F for the freezer.
• Wait 24 hours after changing settings before judging results.
• Clean dust and pet hair from the condenser area (bottom/back, depending on your setup).
• Confirm the freezer is cold; this model moves cold air from the freezer to cool the refrigerator.

Airflow and control settings (what matters on this model)

This refrigerator uses the refrigerator control as the thermostat for the whole appliance, and the freezer control adjusts airflow from the freezer to the fresh-food section. If vents are blocked or airflow is restricted, the bottom shelves often warm up first.

What you notice	Most likely cause	What to do
Freezer is cold, bottom of fridge is warm	Airflow blocked or return vent restricted	Clear vents, rearrange food, check for frost buildup
Both sections are warm	Cooling system not running enough	Verify settings, listen for compressor/fan operation
Temps swing, moisture inside	Vents blocked or doors not sealing well	Clear vents, check door closure and gasket contact

When a part is likely involved

If airflow is clear and settings are correct but the bottom stays warm, a failed sensor, control, or sealed-system component can be involved.

• If temperatures seem inaccurate or inconsistent, a sensor can be a suspect (example: refrigerator temperature sensor 6500JB2002X).
• If the unit is not cooling at all or struggles to maintain temperature, the compressor circuit can be involved (example: refrigerator compressor TCA38091801).

Why it matters

On bottom-mount designs like the Kenmore Elite 79573132411, the freezer is the cold-air source. Anything that reduces airflow from the freezer to the fresh-food section (blocked vents, frost restriction, fan or control issues) can leave the refrigerator bottom warm even when the freezer feels “okay.”

Last updated: January 2026

Common problems on the Kenmore Elite 79573132411 bottom-mount refrigerator include weak or no cooling, frost buildup or water leaks from a clogged defrost drain, dispenser and ice maker issues, and unusual compressor-related noises. Many fixes start with cleaning, airflow checks, and basic water-supply troubleshooting using the 79573132411 owner's manual.

Most common symptoms and what usually causes them

• Not cooling or warm temperatures: dirty condenser coil, failed compressor start components, control or sensor issues, or airflow problems.
• Frost/ice buildup or water under drawers: defrost drain restriction; moisture entering from a door not sealing.
• Ice maker not making ice: water supply issue, inlet valve problem, ice maker failure, or a dispenser door not sealing.
• Water dispenser slow or tastes off: clogged water filter or low household water pressure.
• Buzzing/clicking/humming: compressor overload/relay cycling, fan noise, or ice maker/auger components binding.

Quick checks we recommend before replacing parts

1. Confirm temperatures: set refrigerator to about 37°F and freezer to about 0°F, then allow 24 hours to stabilize.
2. Check door sealing and loading: avoid overpacking; blocked vents can cause warm spots and frost.
3. Clean and inspect airflow areas: keep the grille area clear and remove dust buildup where accessible.
4. Inspect for defrost drain issues: if you see water after defrost, clear ice and debris from the drain path.
5. Verify water supply (for ice and dispenser): make sure the shutoff valve is fully open and the line is not kinked.

Parts that commonly solve these problems (when symptoms match)

Symptom	Part that often relates	Example part for this model
Slow water, bad taste/odor	Water filter	Genuine Kenmore refrigerator water filter 9690 AGF80300801
No ice or weak fill	Water inlet valve	Lg refrigerator water inlet valve AJU72992601
Water leaking inside, icing near drain	Drain tube	Refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D
Clicking, compressor won’t stay running	Overload protector	Refrigerator compressor overload protector 6750CL0001D

Why it matters

Cooling, defrost, and water systems all interact. A clogged drain can look like a “leak,” a restricted filter can look like a “bad valve,” and poor airflow can mimic a sealed-system problem. Starting with the simple checks prevents unnecessary part replacements.

Last updated: January 2026