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Kenmore 11087878100 dryer

Kenmore 11087878100 dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 11087878100 dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 11087878100 Dryer

  • Whirlpool Dryer Drum Belt, 92-1/4-inch for Kenmore 11087878100 - Part 341241

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Belt

    Part #660997

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drum Support Roller Kit for Kenmore 11087878100 - Part 349241T

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    Support

    Part #349241

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drive Motor for Kenmore 11087878100 - Part 279827

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Switch

    Part #337351

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drive Motor for Kenmore 11087878100 - Part 279827

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    Motor

    Part #695075

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Blower Wheel for Kenmore 11087878100 - Part WP694089

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Dryer Blower Wheel

    Part #695499

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Burner Igniter Kit for Kenmore 11087878100 - Part 279311

    Dryer Igniter

    Part #660991

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Idler Pulley for Kenmore 11087878100 - Part WP691366

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Dryer Idler Pulley

    Part #691366

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  • Dryer Door Latch Kit for Kenmore 11087878100 - Part 279570

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Strike

    Part #696144

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  • Dryer Door Latch Kit for Kenmore 11087878100 - Part 279570

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    Catch

    Part #690081

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  • Dryer Thermal Fuse for Kenmore 11087878100 - Part WP3392519

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Fuse

    Part #694511

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Kenmore Dryer 11087878100 FAQs

A PF (power failure) code on your Kenmore dryer model 11087878100 means the dryer briefly lost power and the cycle was interrupted. Restore steady power, then press POWER to clear the display or touch and hold START to restart the cycle.

Quick fix checklist

  • Press POWER/CANCEL to clear the PF message.
  • Touch and hold START to resume the cycle.
  • If PF returns, unplug the dryer for 1 minute, then plug it back in.
  • Try a different wall outlet (avoid extension cords and power strips).
  • Reset the home breaker if it tripped.

What usually causes PF on a dryer

PF is almost always a power interruption, not a failed heating part.

Common cause What you will notice What to do
Brief outage or flicker PF appears mid-cycle Restart cycle with START
Loose plug or worn outlet PF happens when dryer vibrates Reseat plug, replace outlet if loose
Tripped breaker Dryer is dead or stops suddenly Reset breaker, check for repeat trips
Power strip/extension cord Random resets Plug directly into wall outlet

When to suspect a dryer part

If the display goes blank, the dryer will not power on, or PF appears repeatedly even with a solid outlet, check the door switch and drive system because vibration and intermittent operation can mimic a power issue.

  • Inspect the door switch operation (door must fully close and latch).
  • If the drum is hard to turn by hand, check the belt and idler pulley.
  • If the dryer hums but will not run, the motor circuit may be involved.

Helpful model-matched parts to consider:

Why it matters

Repeated PF interruptions can leave clothes damp, increase cycle time, and point to an electrical supply problem that can also affect the dryer motor and controls.

Last updated: January 2026

For a Kenmore dryer like model 11087878100, the heating element part typically runs about $20 to $100, and the total installed cost is commonly about $150 to $350 when you include professional labor. Your final price depends on whether your dryer is electric or gas and what else is worn.

What you usually pay (part vs. labor)

Cost item Typical range Notes
Heating element (part only) $20 to $100 Electric dryers use a heating element; some models sell it as a kit with housing/thermals.
Service call + labor $100 to $250 Varies by area and access; stacked or tight installs cost more.
Common “all-in” total $150 to $350 Higher if additional parts are needed.

What changes the price on model 11087878100

  • Electric vs. gas: Electric models use a heating element; gas models heat with an igniter and gas valve system.
  • Extra parts needed: A failed element can be related to airflow issues; techs often recommend checking thermostats and fuses.
  • Vent restriction: Poor venting can overheat the heater circuit and shorten part life.
  • DIY vs. pro repair: DIY saves labor but requires safe disassembly and correct reassembly.
  • Age and condition: If the drum support parts are worn, you may choose to replace them while the dryer is open.

Quick checks before you buy a heating element

  • Confirm the dryer is electric (gas dryers do not use a heating element).
  • If it runs but does not heat, check airflow and lint buildup first.
  • If it will not start, a heating element is usually not the cause.
  • If you smell burning or see scorching, stop using the dryer until it is inspected.

Why it matters

Replacing the correct heat-producing part keeps drying times normal and helps prevent repeat failures caused by restricted airflow. If your dryer is gas, focusing on the ignition system (not a heating element) avoids wasted time and money.

For gas-heat symptoms on this model family, our troubleshooting steps in gas dryer wont heat troubleshooting video help you narrow down whether parts like the dryer igniter 279311 or dryer gas valve coil kit 279834 are more likely than a heater.

Last updated: January 2026

For a Kenmore dryer like model 11087878100, a reset is a simple power cycle: unplug the dryer (or switch the breaker off) for 2 minutes, then restore power. This clears many control glitches; if the dryer still will not run or heat, a failed safety device or airflow problem is usually the real cause.

Quick reset steps (safe and effective)

  • Turn the dryer OFF.
  • Unplug the power cord (or turn the breaker OFF).
  • Wait 2 minutes.
  • Restore power.
  • If the control panel is locked, press and hold the Control Lock button (or the button labeled for lock) for 3 to 5 seconds.
  • Run a short timed cycle to confirm the dryer starts and the drum turns.

If “resetting” doesn’t fix it, check these common causes

A reset only clears the control; it does not fix a no-start or no-heat condition caused by a failed part.

  • Door not fully latching: inspect the door strike and latch alignment; replace the strike 279570 if it is cracked or loose.
  • Broken drive belt: the motor may run but the drum will not turn; inspect and replace the belt 341241 if worn, frayed, or snapped.
  • Gas heat ignition problems (gas models): if the drum turns but there’s no heat, suspect the igniter or coils; common replacements include the dryer igniter 279311 and the dryer gas valve coil kit 279834.
  • Restricted airflow: a clogged lint screen housing or vent can cause overheating and shutdowns; clean the lint screen and venting.
  • Blower wheel issues: a stripped or broken wheel reduces airflow and can cause poor drying; inspect the dryer blower wheel WP694089.

What symptoms point to which fix?

Symptom What a reset may do What usually needs attention
Control panel frozen Clears glitch Power supply, user interface, wiring if it returns
Drum won’t turn No change Belt, idler pulley, motor
Runs but no heat (gas) Rarely helps Igniter, gas valve coils, radiant sensor
Stops mid-cycle Temporary restart Vent restriction, overheating, blower wheel

Why it matters

Repeated “resets” can hide a real airflow or ignition problem. Fixing the underlying cause helps prevent long dry times, nuisance shutdowns, and heat-related wear on parts.

Last updated: January 2026

On Kenmore dryer model 11087878100 (Kenmore 110 series), the moisture sensor is mounted at the front of the drum area, positioned so clothes rub across it during Auto Dry cycles. You typically reach it from the lint screen opening and the lint duct area just inside the front panel.

Where to find it on Kenmore 11087878100

The moisture sensor is usually a pair of metal sensor bars (or a small sensor assembly) located in the airflow path near the lint screen housing.

Check these common spots:

  • Just inside the drum opening on the front bulkhead (lower front area)
  • On the lint duct or lint chute area behind the lint screen opening
  • Behind a small cover or grille held by a couple of screws near the lint screen duct

How to access it safely (typical approach)

Always disconnect power before opening the cabinet. If your 11087878100 is a gas dryer, shut off the gas supply valve before servicing.

Typical access steps:

  • Unplug the dryer
  • Remove the lint screen
  • Remove the screws securing the lint duct cover or lint chute area
  • Lift out the duct or cover to expose the sensor bars and wire connectors
  • Inspect the sensor bars for residue and check that the wire terminals fit tightly

Quick troubleshooting: sensor vs airflow

Auto Dry problems are often caused by dirty sensor bars or restricted airflow.

Symptom on Auto Dry Most common cause What to do first
Runs too long, clothes overdry Sensor bars coated with residue Clean bars with rubbing alcohol on a cloth
Shuts off too soon, clothes damp Poor airflow or loose sensor wiring Clean venting, check connectors
Heat seems inconsistent (gas) Ignition or flame sensing issue Check burner components

If you are diagnosing a gas heat problem, these parts are commonly involved: dryer igniter 279311, dryer gas valve coil kit 279834, and dryer radiant sensor WP338906.

Why it matters

The moisture sensor tells the control when laundry is dry; when the sensor is dirty or airflow is restricted, the dryer can under-dry, over-dry, or run longer, increasing energy use and wear on moving parts like the belt and motor.

For model-family diagnostics, use our Kenmore 110 series electronic control model dryer error codes reference.

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your dryers

Choose a symptom to see related dryer repairs.

Main causes: bad gas valve coils, broken heating element, tripped safety thermostat or fuse, bad operating thermostat, c…

Main causes: clogged exhaust system, heating system failure, deposits on moisture sensor, control system failure…

Main causes: clogged exhaust vent, bad motor relay, loose dryer door catch, bad door switch, control system failure, fau…

Main causes: door switch failure, lack of power, broken belt, blown thermal fuse, bad drive motor, control system failur…

Main causes: damaged door strike, worn door catch…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, blown thermal fuse, bad door s…

Main causes: bad timer or electronic control board, door switch failure…

Main causes: bad drum support roller, damaged idler pulley, broken blower fan blade, worn drum glide bearing, bad drive …

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