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Kenmore 11062982100 dryer

Kenmore 11062982100 dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 11062982100 dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 11062982100 Dryer

  • Whirlpool Dryer Drum Support Roller for Kenmore 11062982100 - Part WPW10314173

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    Support Kit

    Part #3396801

    Replaced by #WPW10314173

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  • Dryer Heating Element By Whirlpool for Kenmore 11062982100 - Part WP3387747

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    Dryer Heating Element

    Part #3387747

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Idler Pulley for Kenmore 11062982100 - Part W10837240

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    Bracket

    Part #3388674

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Idler Pulley for Kenmore 11062982100 - Part 279640

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    Dryer Idler Pulley

    Part #3388672

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drum Belt for Kenmore 11062982100 - Part 661570V

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    Dryer Drive Belt

    Part #3387610

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  • Dryer Door Latch Kit for Kenmore 11062982100 - Part 279570

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    Strike

    Part #696144

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  • Dryer Door Latch Kit for Kenmore 11062982100 - Part 279570

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    Catch

    Part #690081

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cut-off Fuse Kit for Kenmore 11062982100 - Part 279769

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    Cut-off Kit

    Part #3977394

    Replaced by #279769

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse, 195-degree F for Kenmore 11062982100 - Part WP3390719

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    Dryer Thermal Fuse

    Part #3390719

    Replaced by #WP3390719

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Lint Screen for Kenmore 11062982100 - Part W10120998

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    Screen

    Part #3390721

    Replaced by #W10120998

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Kenmore Dryer 11062982100 FAQs

Your Kenmore dryer’s model number is printed on the model and serial number plate. On Kenmore model 11062982100, that plate is typically found in the door opening area; record both the model and serial numbers so we can match the correct parts, wiring, and specifications.

Where to look for the model number plate

Check these common locations on Kenmore dryers:

  • Inside the dryer door opening (around the frame or opening lip)
  • On the back panel of the dryer cabinet
  • Near the lint screen housing area (depending on design)
  • On a metal plate or durable label labeled “Model No.” and “Serial No.”

If the label is worn, use a flashlight and look for lightly stamped characters.

What to write down (and why)

The manual notes you’ll need the complete model and serial numbers when requesting information or service. Use this quick checklist:

  • Model number (example: 11062982100)
  • Serial number (unique to your unit)
  • Date of purchase (helpful for records)
  • Power type (this model family is covered under an electric dryer manual)

Quick reference table

Item What it tells us Example
Model number Exact design and parts match 11062982100
Serial number Production run details Varies
Plate location Where to confirm both numbers Door opening area

Why it matters

Kenmore model numbers can look similar, but small differences change the correct heating parts, drum support parts, and controls. Using the exact model number helps us avoid ordering the wrong component.

For model-specific identification details and record-keeping, use the 11062982100 owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

Replacing the heating element in your Kenmore dryer model 11062982100 typically costs $70 to $120 for the part plus any supplies; with professional service, the total repair commonly runs $200 to $400 depending on labor rates and whether additional heat-circuit parts are needed. See the 11062982100 owner's manual for safety and operating guidance.

Typical cost breakdown

  • Heating element part: often $70 to $120 for this style of electric dryer element
  • Optional wiring/terminals: $10 to $30 if connectors are heat-damaged
  • Professional labor: commonly $120 to $280 (service call plus installation time)
  • DIY tools/supplies: $0 to $25 (nut driver, vacuum, gloves)
Scenario What you pay for Typical total
DIY element swap Part only $70 to $120
DIY plus wiring repair Part + connectors $80 to $150
Pro repair Labor + part $200 to $400

What can raise the total cost

A heating element failure is sometimes caused by airflow or heat-control issues. Plan for extra cost if you also need to address:

  • A blown dryer thermal fuse WP3390719
  • A temperature-sensing issue (for example, a thermistor)
  • Restricted venting (long runs, too many elbows, crushed duct)
  • Burned wiring at the element terminals

Why it matters

A weak or failed heating element can leave clothes damp and can overwork the dryer. Fixing airflow and any heat-safety components at the same time helps the new element last longer and keeps drying times normal.

Last updated: February 2026

A blown thermal fuse in your Kenmore dryer model 11062982100 commonly shows up as a dryer that will not run at all, or a dryer that runs but will not heat. The sure way to confirm is a continuity test with a multimeter after unplugging the dryer (the fuse should read closed/continuous).

Quick symptoms to look for

  • Dryer will not start (no motor run)
  • Dryer tumbles but there is no heat
  • Cycle seems normal, but clothes stay damp
  • You recently had poor airflow (clogged lint screen or vent restriction)
  • House power issue can look similar (dryer runs but no heat if one supply fuse is blown)

How to test the thermal fuse (basic continuity check)

  1. Unplug the dryer (or switch off the breaker).
  2. Access the fuse (location varies by design; use the wiring/parts views in the 11062982100 owner's manual).
  3. Remove at least one wire from the fuse terminal.
  4. Set a multimeter to continuity or lowest ohms.
  5. Probe the fuse terminals.

Typical results

Meter result What it means What to do next
Beep or near 0 ohms Fuse is good Keep troubleshooting heat or run issues
No beep or OL/infinite Fuse is blown (open) Replace the fuse and correct the airflow problem

Parts that are often involved in “no heat” complaints

If your dryer runs but does not heat, we check these items in a logical order because the manual notes that a power supply issue can let the dryer appear to run while producing no heat.

Why it matters

The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to open if the dryer overheats. If you replace a blown fuse without fixing restricted venting or lint buildup, the new fuse can blow again quickly and drying performance will stay poor.

Last updated: February 2026

On a Kenmore dryer, an F1 code typically points to a problem with the electronic control (control board) or its wiring. On model 11062982100, start by resetting power, then inspect harness connections; if the code returns, the control is usually the failed component.

What to do first (quick checks)

  • Unplug the dryer (or switch off the breaker) for 5 minutes, then restore power.
  • If the code comes back immediately, stop the cycle and unplug the dryer again.
  • Check that the console area is dry and free of lint buildup.
  • Reseat the wire harness plugs on the control (a loose connection can trigger false errors).
  • If the dryer overheated recently, correct airflow issues before running again.

Likely causes and what they mean

Likely cause What you may notice Typical fix
Control board fault F1 appears at start or mid-cycle Replace electronic control (model-specific)
Loose or damaged wiring Intermittent F1, works sometimes Repair/secure harness connections
Overheating from poor venting Hot cabinet, long dry times Clean venting; check thermal safety parts

Why airflow matters with error codes

Even when an F1 is control-related, restricted venting can overheat the dryer and stress electrical components. For this Kenmore electric dryer, we recommend confirming the vent path is clear and the lint screen area is clean before replacing parts.

Parts that commonly get checked during overheating or no-heat symptoms

These parts do not “cause” an F1 by themselves, but they are often inspected when the dryer has heat or airflow problems:

Model-specific help

Use the 11062982100 owner's manual for the control panel features, troubleshooting section, and safe access guidance before servicing.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your dryers

Choose a symptom to see related dryer repairs.

Main causes: bad gas valve coils, broken heating element, tripped safety thermostat or fuse, bad operating thermostat, c…

Main causes: clogged exhaust system, heating system failure, deposits on moisture sensor, control system failure…

Main causes: clogged exhaust vent, bad motor relay, loose dryer door catch, bad door switch, control system failure, fau…

Main causes: door switch failure, lack of power, broken belt, blown thermal fuse, bad drive motor, control system failur…

Main causes: damaged door strike, worn door catch…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, blown thermal fuse, bad door s…

Main causes: bad timer or electronic control board, door switch failure…

Main causes: bad drum support roller, damaged idler pulley, broken blower fan blade, worn drum glide bearing, bad drive …

Most common repair guides to help fix your dryers

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your dryer.

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Repair time and Difficulty

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