Kenmore 11067652600 dryer Parts

For Kenmore dryer model 11067652600, replacing the heating element typically costs $50 to $350 total. The part itself is usually $20 to $120+, and professional labor commonly adds $100 to $250, depending on access, diagnostics, and local rates.

Typical cost breakdown

• DIY (part only): usually $20 to $120+
• Service call/diagnosis (if used): often $75 to $150
• Labor (element replacement): often $100 to $250
• Total with a technician: commonly $150 to $350

For this model, a common replacement part is the dryer element 279838. For wiring damage at the heater terminals, the dryer heating element wire kit 279457 is also commonly needed.

Repair approach	What you pay for	Typical total
DIY replacement	Heating element (and any damaged connectors)	$20 to $150
Technician repair	Diagnosis + labor + parts	$150 to $350

What can raise the price

A heating element failure is often related to airflow or heat control issues. These items can add cost if they also need replacement:

• Restricted venting (cleaning or vent repair)
• Blown thermal safety parts (often caused by overheating)
• Heat cycling problems from a thermostat issue
• Burned wires or loose terminals at the heater

Quick checks before you buy parts

We recommend these basics first because they can prevent repeat failures:

• Confirm the dryer has the correct power supply; electric dryers can run but not heat if a supply leg is missing
• Check for a crushed or blocked vent; restricted airflow can overheat the heater circuit
• If the dryer shows an L2 code during the initial diagnostic, address the home power supply issue first
• If the dryer shows an AF code, correct the vent restriction first

These checks and codes are covered in the 11067652600 installation guide.

Why it matters

A new heating element can fail early if the dryer is overheating from poor airflow or if the power supply is incorrect. Fixing the root cause first protects the new element and restores normal drying times.

Last updated: February 2026

Your Kenmore dryer’s model number is printed on the model and serial label; on model 11067652600, that label is located at the top inside the dryer door well. Once you have the full model number, we can match the correct parts, diagrams, and specifications.

Where to look for the model number label

Check these common Kenmore dryer label locations (start with the door opening):

• Top inside the dryer door well (most common for Kenmore 110-series dryers)
• Inside the door opening on the cabinet frame
• On the back panel of the dryer cabinet
• Near the lint screen housing (varies by design)

For the exact label location and how it’s shown in the diagrams, use the 11067652600 owner’s manual.

What to write down (and why)

Record the information exactly as shown on the label:

• Model number (example format: 110.xxxxxxxxx)
• Serial number (helps identify production run details)
• Purchase date (useful for maintenance history)

Quick reference

Item on label	What it’s used for	Tip
Model number	Correct part fit and diagrams	Copy every digit (no spaces)
Serial number	Version details and service identification	Take a clear photo
Purchase date	Maintenance and ownership records	Save with your receipt

Why it matters

Kenmore dryers share similar styling across many years, but parts like a dryer drum belt, heating element, timer, or electronic control board can change by model. Using the exact model number prevents ordering the wrong replacement part.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Kenmore dryer model 11067652600 won’t start, or it runs but has no heat, a blown thermal fuse or thermal cut-off is a common cause. We confirm it by unplugging the dryer and checking the fuse for continuity with a multimeter.

Common signs before you test

Look for these symptoms first:

• Dryer won’t run at all (no motor)
• Drum turns but there’s no heat
• Cycle stops early after a short run
• You recently had poor airflow (clogged vent, crushed duct, heavy lint)

How to test the thermal fuse (definitive)

Use the safety and access steps in the 11067652600 installation guide before removing any panels.

• Unplug the dryer or switch off the breaker
• Locate the fuse (often on the blower housing or heater housing)
• Pull at least one wire off the fuse terminal
• Set the meter to continuity or ohms
• Probe the two fuse terminals

Meter result	What it means	Next step
Beep or ~0 ohms	Fuse is good	Check other heat or start components
No beep, OL, or infinite	Fuse is blown	Replace the fuse and correct airflow

Fix the airflow problem (so it doesn’t blow again)

A thermal fuse opens when the dryer overheats; restricted venting is the usual reason.

• Clean the lint screen and the lint screen housing
• Clean the vent duct all the way to the outside hood
• Make sure the vent hose is not kinked or crushed
• Check the outside damper flap for sticking or blockage
• Confirm the dryer has enough clearance behind it

Why it matters

Overheating can keep taking out safety devices and can shorten the life of the heating system, including the heating element.

Last updated: February 2026

On Kenmore dryer model 11067652600, F26 is treated as a control sensing a door not closed or a door-switch circuit issue. The quickest fix is to confirm the door fully latches, then check the door switch and its wiring connection.

What to do first (no tools)

• Open the door and close it firmly until you hear and feel the latch click.
• Remove any laundry caught between the door and the front panel.
• Power-cycle the dryer: unplug for 1 minute, then try a Timed Dry cycle.
• If the code returns, verify the basics (power supply, door closed) listed in the 11067652600 installation guide.

Parts and areas to inspect

If the door is closing normally but F26 keeps coming back, focus on the door-switch circuit.

• Door switch: check for a loose connector or damaged terminals at the switch
• Door strike and latch alignment: a misaligned strike can prevent the switch from actuating
• Harness wiring near the door opening: look for pinched or broken wires

A common replacement part for the door-switch circuit on this model is the dryer door switch WP3406105.

Symptom-to-cause guide

What you notice	Most likely cause	What we recommend
Dryer starts only if you push on the door	Latch/strike misalignment	Inspect strike, tighten screws, realign door if needed
F26 comes and goes	Loose connection at door switch	Reseat connector at the switch; check for corrosion
Dryer will not start and shows F26	Failed door switch	Replace the door switch and recheck operation

Why it matters

The door switch is a safety interlock. If the control does not detect a closed door, the dryer will stop or refuse to start to prevent operation with the door open.

Last updated: February 2026