Owner’s manual
Error Codes
How to tell if a Kenmore refrigerator compressor is bad?
On Kenmore refrigerator model 59676502500, a “bad compressor” usually shows up as poor or no cooling along with repeated clicking (start attempts) or the compressor not staying running. Some humming and a pulsating vibration can be normal, so we focus on cooling performance and restart behavior. See the owner's manual for normal sounds and basic “won’t run” checks.
Quick signs the compressor is failing
- Refrigerator and freezer are warm even though interior lights work
- You hear repeated clicking every few minutes (overload/start device cycling)
- Compressor runs briefly, then shuts off and repeats
- Compressor is unusually loud (grinding/metallic) rather than a steady hum
- Condenser fan and evaporator fan may run, but temperatures do not recover
Rule out common non-compressor causes first
Before condemning the compressor, we check the basics that commonly mimic compressor failure:
- Confirm the unit is plugged in and the control is turned on
- Check the house breaker or fuse
- Clean dirty condenser coils (dirty coils can cause poor cooling)
- Make sure doors seal and close fully (gaskets, bins, drawers not blocking)
- Allow time after a defrost cycle; if the compressor is off during defrost, wait about 40 minutes to see if it restarts
What the manual says about “compressor not running”
The troubleshooting guidance for this model family points to power, control settings, and defrost mode as first checks. If the refrigerator still will not operate after those checks, service is needed.
What a technician tests (the deciding checks)
These tests confirm whether the compressor itself is bad or if a start component is the real issue:
| Test | What it indicates | Typical next step |
|---|---|---|
| Start device/overload inspection and electrical test | Failed start components can prevent a good compressor from starting | Replace the start device/overload if defective |
| Compressor winding resistance test | Open/shorted windings point to compressor failure | Replace compressor |
| Amp draw while starting/running | High locked-rotor amps or repeated overload trips | Diagnose start system vs. compressor |
If you suspect the start device/overload is the problem, the model’s listed replacement is the refrigerator overload release W10613606.
Why it matters
A compressor that cannot start or cannot stay running will quickly lead to unsafe food temperatures. Catching a start-device issue early can restore cooling without replacing major sealed-system parts.
Last updated: February 2026
How to tell what model Kenmore refrigerator?
For Kenmore refrigerator model 59676502500, the model number is printed on the model and serial number sticker inside the refrigerator section; on this model it’s located on the left wall. Use that exact model number to match the correct parts list and diagrams.
Where to look for the model number
Check these common spots first (in order):
- Inside the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment on the left wall (most common for this model)
- On a side wall near the crisper drawers
- On the ceiling of the fresh food compartment
- Behind or beside a crisper drawer (remove the drawer to see the label)
- In your paperwork, such as the owner's manual
What the label typically includes
The sticker usually lists:
- Model number (example format shown in the manual: 596.)
- Serial number
- Purchase date (often written in by the owner)
| Item on label | What it’s used for | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Model number | Parts lookup and diagrams | Ensures the part fits your exact configuration |
| Serial number | Production details | Helps confirm version changes within a model |
| Purchase date | Records and maintenance | Useful for tracking service history |
Why it matters
Kenmore model numbers can look similar, but small differences can change the correct ice maker, door gasket, light switch, or drawer hardware. Using the exact model number from the sticker prevents ordering the wrong replacement part.
Last updated: February 2026
What is the bottom part of a refrigerator called?
On your Kenmore refrigerator model 59676502500, the “bottom part” most people mean is the toe grille (the vented kick plate at the very bottom front) or the compressor area behind the lower rear access area. The toe grille is the piece you remove first for leveling and some service steps; see the owner's manual.
Common “bottom parts” and what they do
- Toe grille (kick plate): snaps on at the bottom front; provides airflow and access for leveling.
- Bottom hinge cover(s): small covers near the lower hinge area; removed during door service.
- Leveling legs and adjustment screws: used to raise/lower the front and rear so doors seal correctly.
- Compressor compartment: houses the compressor and related start components; supports cooling.
- Freezer drawer area: on bottom-mount models, the freezer and basket system sits at the bottom.
Quick identification guide
| If you mean... | Where you’ll see it | What it looks like | Why you’d remove it |
|---|---|---|---|
| Toe grille | Bottom front | Long vented panel | Leveling, cleaning, access |
| Compressor area | Bottom rear | Metal components and tubing | Cooling system service |
| Bottom hinge cover | Bottom front corner | Small plastic cover | Door removal/reversal |
Why it matters
Using the right name helps you find the correct instructions and parts. For example, the manual calls out removing the toe grille before leveling, then adjusting the front screws and stabilizing legs so the refrigerator sits level and the doors close and seal properly.
Related parts you might replace (when symptoms match)
If your question is tied to a problem (warm temps, noise, lights not working), these model-matched parts are commonly involved:
- Refrigerator compressor W10160407 (cooling failure, clicking with no start)
- Refrigerator overload release W10613606 (compressor start issues)
- Refrigerator light switch W11396033 (interior light problems)
Last updated: February 2026
Why is the bottom of my Kenmore refrigerator leaking water?
Water at the bottom of your Kenmore 59676502500 bottom-mount refrigerator comes from one of three places: a clogged defrost drain overflowing into the freezer floor, a slow leak at the ice maker water supply connection, or warm air leaks at the door gasket creating excess frost and meltwater. Use the owner's manual troubleshooting guidance to narrow it down.
Quick checks we recommend
- Look for a sheet of ice on the freezer floor (classic clogged drain sign).
- Check the water line and shutoff valve for slow drips.
- Confirm the refrigerator is level so defrost water flows to the drain.
- Inspect door gaskets for gaps, tears, or areas not sealing.
- Note where the puddle starts: front, center, or back.
Most common causes and what to do
Clogged or frozen defrost drain
Defrost water can back up, freeze on the freezer floor, then melt and run out the bottom.
- Unplug the refrigerator.
- Remove the freezer basket and any ice sheet.
- Melt ice with warm air and flush the drain with warm water.
Water supply connection leak (ice maker)
The manual highlights common leak causes: plastic tubing, kinks, and self-piercing or saddle valves; it also specifies correct water pressure.
- Use copper tubing when possible.
- Avoid self-piercing or saddle valves.
- Verify water pressure is 35 to 100 psi (about 20 psi minimum without a filter).
| What you see | Most likely cause | Best next step |
|---|---|---|
| Ice sheet on freezer floor | Defrost drain clogged/frozen | Clear and flush the drain |
| Drips near back/bottom | Water line connection leak | Re-seat and tighten fittings |
| Frost, condensation, warm spots | Door not sealing | Clean and adjust gasket |
Parts that can be involved
If the leak is tied to ice production or the ice maker fill circuit, a common related part is the refrigerator ice maker D7824706Q.
Why it matters
Bottom leaks can damage flooring and often indicate a defrost drainage or water supply issue that also increases frost buildup and hurts cooling performance.
Last updated: February 2026
