Kenmore 11173307910 bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

You can identify your Kenmore refrigerator model by finding the model and serial number on the identification label inside the refrigerator (fresh food) compartment. For Kenmore model 11173307910, the label is on the interior liner of the refrigerator compartment; match that model number when looking up parts and instructions in the owner's manual.

Where to look for the model and serial label

Check these common spots first (use a flashlight and look along the cabinet walls):

• Inside the fresh food compartment on a side wall (interior liner)
• Inside the fresh food compartment near the top (ceiling area)
• Behind or beside the crisper drawers (on the liner)
• Near the door opening where the gasket seals (liner edge)

What to write down (and why)

Record both numbers exactly as shown so you can get the right parts and service information.

Item	What it’s used for	Example format
Model number	Identifies the exact design and parts list	11173307910
Serial number	Identifies the production unit for records	Letters and numbers
Date of purchase	Helps with your product record and warranty paperwork	Month/day/year

Tips to avoid mix-ups

These quick checks prevent ordering the wrong refrigerator parts (like a door gasket, water filter, or ice maker component):

• Copy the model number character-for-character (no spaces added)
• Use the full model number, not just the first few digits
• If the label is worn, take a clear photo and zoom in
• Keep the information with your receipt in your home records

Why it matters

Kenmore refrigerators can look similar across series, but parts and control settings can differ by model. Using the exact model number ensures you get the correct diagrams, troubleshooting steps, and compatible replacement parts.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Kenmore 11173307910 bottom-mount refrigerator is warm and the compressor runs almost constantly, gets unusually hot, or repeatedly trips the breaker, the compressor or its start components may be failing. First rule out normal long run times caused by warm room temps, door openings, or dirty condenser airflow (see the owner's manual).

Quick checks before blaming the compressor

Many “bad compressor” symptoms are caused by airflow, door sealing, or normal operating conditions.

• Confirm the doors fully close and seal; a leaking gasket forces long run times.
• Set controls to normal temps and wait up to 24 hours after changes or power loss.
• Clean the condenser cover and vents with a vacuum; do not remove the condenser area panel.
• Check room temperature; at about 70°F, the compressor commonly runs about 40% to 80% of the time.
• Listen for normal sounds (clicking, gurgling, whooshing) that can be part of normal operation.

Signs that point more strongly to a compressor or start-device problem

These checks help separate “running a lot” from “not able to start or pump.”

What you notice	What it often means	What to do next
Compressor tries to start, clicks off, repeats	Start relay/overload issue or locked rotor	Unplug for 5 minutes, restore power; if it repeats, have the start components and compressor tested
Fridge and freezer both warm, compressor runs steadily	Sealed system or compressor not pumping	Check condenser airflow and fans first; then schedule sealed-system diagnosis
Breaker trips when compressor starts	Electrical overload	Stop using the outlet circuit; have wiring, start device, and compressor checked
Compressor extremely hot and cooling is poor	Overload condition or failing compressor	Improve airflow, clean vents; if no improvement, professional diagnosis

Noises: what is normal vs not

Your refrigerator can make clicking, rattling, whooshing, gurgling, popping, and sizzling sounds during normal cycles. If the noise is a loud repeated click with no cooling, that is more consistent with a start failure than normal defrost cycling (details in the owner's manual).

Why it matters

A true compressor or sealed-system failure is a high-cost repair, so it is worth eliminating common causes first (dirty condenser airflow, doors not sealing, warm ambient conditions). That prevents unnecessary parts replacement and gets cooling restored faster.

Last updated: February 2026

A bottom-mount refrigerator means the freezer compartment is on the bottom and the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment is on top. On Kenmore model 11173307910, this layout puts everyday items at eye level while frozen foods are stored in a lower pull-out drawer.

How a bottom-mount layout is organized

Most bottom-mount designs (including this Kenmore bottom freezer style) are set up like this:

• Top section: fresh food compartment with shelves, bins, and door storage
• Bottom section: freezer drawer (often with baskets or dividers)
• Airflow: cold air is circulated between compartments by fans and vents
• Door style: typically a single refrigerator door on top with a freezer drawer below

Bottom-mount vs. other refrigerator styles

Style	Freezer location	Best for	Common tradeoff
Bottom-mount	Bottom drawer	Frequent fresh food access	Bending to reach freezer items
Top freezer	Top compartment	Simple layout, often lower cost	Fresh food is lower
Side-by-side	Left or right side	Narrow door swing, easy freezer access	Less wide shelf space
French door (bottom freezer)	Bottom drawer	Wide fresh food shelves	More door seals and alignment points

Why it matters for use, installation, and troubleshooting

The freezer being on the bottom affects how you maintain and diagnose common issues:

• Temperature balance: freezer performance strongly impacts overall cooling
• Door sealing and alignment: drawer and door gaskets must seal tightly to prevent frost and warm spots
• Clearance needs: allow airflow space around the cabinet (the guide calls for about 2 inches at the back and top)
• Moving the unit: door removal is often recommended for narrow openings

For model-specific features, controls, and compartment details, use the 11173307910 owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

Water leaking from the bottom of your Kenmore 11173307910 bottom-mount refrigerator is usually caused by defrost water not draining correctly (a clogged or frozen defrost drain) or by water supply issues if the refrigerator is connected to a water line. Use the troubleshooting and care steps in the owner's manual to confirm the source.

Most common causes (and what to check first)

• Clogged or frozen defrost drain: Melted frost cannot flow to the drain pan, so it backs up and leaks.
• Cracked, shifted, or overflowing drain pan: Defrost water is supposed to run into the pan during defrost.
• Water line connection seepage: A loose fitting or damaged tubing can drip and run to the front or bottom.
• Water inlet valve leaking: A slow leak can create intermittent puddles.
• Door not sealing well: Excess moisture can increase frost and defrost water, making drain problems show up faster.

Step-by-step troubleshooting

1. Identify the water type: Clear water near the front often points to the water system; water after heavy frost points to defrost drainage.
2. Check inside for drain backup: Look for water pooling under crisper drawers or on the refrigerator floor.
3. Clear the defrost drain: Remove any visible debris; melt ice in the drain area using warm water (never use sharp tools).
4. Inspect the drain pan: Make sure it is seated correctly and not cracked.
5. If plumbed in, inspect the water line: Confirm fittings are snug and tubing is not kinked or rubbing.

Quick diagnosis guide

What you see	Most likely cause	What to do next
Water inside fridge, then leaks out	Defrost drain clogged/frozen	Clear drain and flush with warm water
Puddle under center/rear	Drain pan issue	Re-seat pan; replace if cracked
Drips near back where water line enters	Water line fitting/tubing	Tighten fitting; replace damaged tubing
Random puddles, ice maker acts up	Inlet valve seepage	Inspect valve and connections

Why it matters

A small leak can turn into floor damage and can also signal airflow or defrost issues that reduce cooling performance. Your manual notes that water normally runs into the drain pan during the defrost cycle, so leaks often mean the drain path or pan is not handling that water correctly.

Related DIY help

• How to get rid of refrigerator puddles
• How to diagnose a faulty refrigerator water inlet valve

Last updated: February 2026