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Maytag PBF1951KEW refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Maytag PBF1951KEW refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

Maytag PBF1951KEW refrigerator
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Browse Parts for PBF1951KEW Refrigerators

  • Refrigerator Fan Shroud Seal for Maytag PBF1951KEW - Part W10856123

    Evaporator/evap motor/front rollers diagram

    Refrigerator Foam Gasket

    Part #67001291

    Replaced by #W10856123

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  • Refrigerator Gasket for Maytag PBF1951KEW - Part A3189394

    Evaporator/evap motor/front rollers diagram

    Refrigerator Gasket

    Part #67002286

    Replaced by #A3189394

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  • Refrigerator Ice Bin for Maytag PBF1951KEW - Part WP67001255

    Ice maker diagram

    Refrigerator Ice Bin

    Part #67001255

    Replaced by #WP67001255

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  • Refrigerator Crisper Drawer Cover Support for Maytag PBF1951KEW - Part WP12227302WD

    Crisper assembly diagram

    Crisper Brace

    Part #67001155

    Replaced by #WP12227302WD

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  • Gasket Drain Tube for Maytag PBF1951KEW - Part WPB8381501

    Interior cabinet/frz shelves/toe grille diagram

    Gasket Drain Tube

    Part #B8381501

    Replaced by #WPB8381501

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  • Refrigerator Leveling Leg for Maytag PBF1951KEW - Part W11177593

    Interior cabinet/frz shelves/toe grille diagram

    Refrigerator Leveling Leg

    Part #67003868

    Replaced by #W11177593

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  • Refrigerator Dairy Bin Cover for Maytag PBF1951KEW - Part WP67003637

    Refrigerator door diagram

    Refrigerator Dairy Bin Cover

    Part #67003637

    Replaced by #WP67003637

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  • Refrigerator Door Hinge Pin for Maytag PBF1951KEW - Part WP67006744

    Refrigerator door diagram

    Refrigerator Door Hinge Pin

    Part #67006744

    Replaced by #WP67006744

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  • Center Hinge Assembly-std for Maytag PBF1951KEW - Part W11689473

    Refrigerator door diagram

    Center Hinge

    Part #67001168

    Replaced by #W11689473

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  • Refrigerator Door Hinge Bushing for Maytag PBF1951KEW - Part WP67004977

    Refrigerator Door Hinge Bushing

    Part #67004977

    Replaced by #WP67004977

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Maytag Refrigerator PBF1951KEW FAQs

A bottom-mount refrigerator like the Maytag PBF1951KEW is better for many households because the fresh-food section sits at eye level, so you reach for everyday items with less bending. The tradeoff is you bend more often to access the freezer drawer.

When a bottom-mount is the better choice

  • You use fresh foods (milk, produce, leftovers) more often than frozen foods
  • You want shelves and crisper drawers at a more comfortable height
  • You prefer a wide freezer drawer for bulky items (pizza boxes, bags of frozen food)
  • You want easier visibility of refrigerated items, which can reduce food waste

When it might not be better

  • You access the freezer many times per day (you will bend more)
  • You prefer a top freezer for quick grab-and-go frozen items
  • You want the simplest layout with the fewest moving parts (drawers and slides add complexity)

Quick comparison

Feature Bottom-mount (like PBF1951KEW) Top-freezer
Fresh food access Easier (eye level) Harder (lower shelves)
Freezer access More bending Easier (higher)
Organization Strong for fridge items Strong for freezer items
Typical fit/space Often taller Often shorter

Why it matters

Most people open the refrigerator compartment far more than the freezer. Putting fresh food up top reduces daily strain and makes it easier to see what you have.

Parts that commonly support bottom-mount convenience

If your day-to-day experience is slipping (warm temps, poor airflow, icing), these model-matched parts are often involved:

Last updated: February 2026

On a Maytag PBF1951KEW bottom-mount refrigerator, the “bottom part” most people mean is the compressor area (the sealed-system compartment near the floor at the back). Depending on what you’re pointing to, it can also refer to the condenser section, drain pan area, or the freezer compartment.

Common “bottom parts” and what they do

  • Compressor: pumps refrigerant through the sealed system; key to cooling
  • Condenser coil and condenser fan area: releases heat from the refrigerant
  • Drain pan (drip tray): catches defrost water so it can evaporate
  • Bottom freezer section: the lower compartment that holds frozen food
  • Lower basket/rails: supports and slides the freezer basket

Quick ID guide (what you see vs. what it’s called)

If you mean… Typical location What it’s usually called
A black “can” with tubes Back, near the floor Compressor
A warm coil and fan Back/bottom or underneath Condenser coil/fan area
A shallow plastic tray Under the unit Drip tray/drain pan
The lower door and drawer Front, bottom Freezer compartment

Parts that match these areas for model PBF1951KEW

If you’re troubleshooting noise, heat, or water under the fridge, these model-matched parts are commonly involved:

Why it matters

Using the right name helps you pick the correct Maytag refrigerator parts and follow the right repair steps. For example, a “hot bottom” often points to the condenser area, while “water on the floor” often points to the drain pan or a defrost drain issue.

Last updated: February 2026

A bottom-freezer (bottom-mount) refrigerator like the Maytag PBF1951KEW typically lasts 10 to 15 years. With consistent cleaning, good airflow, and quick repairs when symptoms start, it often reaches the upper end of that range.

Typical lifespan and what affects it

Most bottom-mount refrigerators land in a solid middle ground for longevity: fewer door mechanisms than many French door models, but more features than basic top-freezer units.

Common factors that shorten life:

  • Dirty condenser area causing high compressor run time
  • Door gasket leaks that let warm air and moisture in
  • Evaporator fan issues that reduce airflow to the fresh-food section
  • Defrost system problems that lead to frost buildup and warm temps
  • Ice maker or water system leaks that create corrosion or icing

What we recommend to help your PBF1951KEW last longer

These steps prevent the most common wear issues we see in bottom-freezer refrigerators:

  • Keep vents inside the refrigerator and freezer clear of food packages
  • Clean dust from the condenser area regularly (more often with pets)
  • Confirm doors close and seal fully; fix gaps quickly
  • Set stable temperatures (avoid extreme cold settings that overwork the system)
  • Address new noises early (buzzing, clicking, or fan rubbing)

Quick symptom-to-part checklist

Symptom Most likely area Example part for this model
Warm fresh-food section, freezer OK Evaporator airflow Evaporator motor WPW10128551
Frost buildup, warming over time Defrost system Refrigerator defrost heater WP67002135 or refrigerator defrost bi-metal thermostat WP67003426
Clicking, won’t start cooling Start components Refrigerator start device W10613606
Ice production problems Ice maker assembly Refrigerator ice maker D7824706Q

Why it matters

Once a refrigerator passes the 10-year mark, small issues like a weak door seal or a noisy fan can push the sealed system (compressor and refrigerant loop) to work harder. Fixing the early, lower-cost problems often adds years of reliable cooling.

Last updated: February 2026

Ice building up on the bottom of a Maytag PBF1951KEW bottom-mount freezer is almost always caused by a clogged defrost drain. During defrost, meltwater should flow down the drain; when it plugs up, water pools, refreezes, and forms a sheet of ice on the freezer floor.

What’s happening (and why it matters)

When the drain is blocked, defrost water has nowhere to go. That leads to:

  • Ice sheets on the freezer bottom and under the lower basket
  • Water leaking onto the kitchen floor when the ice melts
  • Poor airflow that can cause warmer freezer temps and soft ice cream
  • Extra run time and higher energy use

Quick checks you can do safely

Unplug the refrigerator before working around ice, fans, or wiring.

  • Remove the freezer drawer/basket and look for a solid ice slab on the floor
  • Check the back freezer panel for heavy frost (can point to a defrost or airflow issue)
  • Look for debris in the drain trough under the evaporator cover (ice, food bits)
  • Confirm the door closes tightly and the gasket is sealing evenly

How we fix a clogged defrost drain

In most bottom-mount designs, the fix is clearing the drain and flushing it so it stays open.

  1. Unplug the refrigerator.
  2. Melt the ice on the freezer floor (towels plus a hair dryer on low, kept moving).
  3. Access the drain trough area and clear visible ice.
  4. Flush the drain with hot water (a turkey baster works well) until it flows freely.
  5. Clean the drain pan area if accessible and make sure water is reaching the pan.

If the freezer keeps icing up after the drain is clear, we check the defrost system because incomplete defrost can create excess meltwater and ice.

Parts that can be involved

These parts are commonly related when icing is tied to defrost performance (not just a one-time clog):

Symptom Likely area Example part for PBF1951KEW
Heavy frost on back wall Defrost system Refrigerator defrost heater WP67002135
Frost returns quickly Defrost sensing Refrigerator defrost bi-metal thermostat WP67003426
Warm temps plus poor airflow Evaporator fan Evaporator motor WPW10128551

Helpful DIY guidance

For step-by-step troubleshooting, we recommend starting with how to get rid of refrigerator puddles because drain issues often show up as both ice buildup and water leaks.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

Most common repair guides to help fix your refrigerators

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your refrigerator.

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

If the temperature in your refrigerator doesn't match the temperature you set, the problem could be the temperature cont…

Repair time and Difficulty

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How to replace a refrigerator water valve

How to replace a refrigerator water valve

Replace the water valve that feeds water to the ice maker and water dispenser if it no longer controls the flow of water…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

Help your refrigerator run more efficiently by cleaning the condenser coils. It's easy and takes just a few minutes.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

Effective articles & videos to help repair your refrigerators

Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your refrigerator.

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How to Replace the Water Filter in a Universal/Multiflex Refrigerator

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