What's better, top mount or bottom mount fridge?
For most households, a bottom-mount refrigerator like Kenmore 11173029710 is better for everyday convenience because fresh foods sit at eye level and the freezer is in a pull-out drawer. A top-mount is often the better pick when you want the simplest layout and typically lower purchase cost.
Quick comparison (what changes day to day)
| Feature | Top-mount (freezer on top) | Bottom-mount (freezer on bottom) |
|---|---|---|
| Fresh food access | More bending | Less bending, easier reach |
| Freezer access | Easy reach | Drawer style, great for organizing |
| Organization | Basic bins and shelves | Often more drawers and baskets |
| Energy use | Often slightly lower | Often slightly higher |
| Repairs/complexity | Usually simpler | More drawer hardware and seals |
When a bottom-mount is the better choice
A bottom-mount layout fits how most people use a fridge: you open the fresh-food section far more than the freezer.
- You want produce, drinks, and leftovers at comfortable height
- You like pull-out freezer baskets for sorting frozen foods
- You meal prep and need adjustable shelving for tall containers
- You prefer a cleaner look with a bottom freezer drawer
When a top-mount is the better choice
Top-mount models are a solid “simple and efficient” option.
- You want a straightforward design with fewer moving parts
- You use the freezer more than the refrigerator
- You want a model that is often more budget-friendly
- You have tight kitchen clearance and prefer a lighter freezer door
Why it matters
Layout affects how long doors stay open, how easy it is to keep food organized, and how well the refrigerator holds temperature. For Kenmore 11173029710, we also recommend leveling the cabinet and aligning doors so seals close evenly; that helps cooling performance and reduces compressor run time (details are in the 11173029710 owner's manual).
Tips to get the most from either style
- Keep the refrigerator organized so the door stays open for less time
- Let a newly installed refrigerator run a few hours before loading food
- Expect up to 24 hours to fully reach set temperatures after plugging in
- Level the refrigerator so doors close on their own and seal properly
Last updated: February 2026
What is the average lifespan of a Kenmore refrigerator?
Most Kenmore refrigerators last 12 to 15 years with normal household use. For your Kenmore 11173029710 bottom-mount refrigerator, consistent maintenance (clean airflow paths, good door sealing, correct clearances) is what most directly determines whether it reaches the high end of that range.
Typical lifespan and what changes it
A refrigerator’s life is mainly driven by compressor run time, heat removal, and how hard the sealed system has to work.
- Typical range: 12 to 15 years
- Often reaches: 15+ years with good upkeep
- Shortens lifespan: dirty condenser area, warm room temps, frequent door opening, poor door sealing, overpacking that blocks airflow
- Helps lifespan: stable temperatures, good ventilation, clean gaskets, correct leveling
Maintenance that most improves longevity
Use these as your baseline habits for a Kenmore bottom-mount unit like model 11173029710.
- Keep at least 2 inches of clearance between the back of the refrigerator and the wall (helps efficiency and reduces compressor strain).
- Keep door bins, shelves, crispers, and the ice bin fully seated so doors close correctly.
- Keep the door gaskets clean and sealing evenly; warm air leaks force longer run times.
- Avoid packing food so tightly that it blocks internal vents and airflow.
- If you have an ice maker or water dispenser, replace the water filter on schedule and keep water flow strong.
Quick “repair vs. replace” checkpoints
These guidelines help decide whether extending life with repairs makes sense.
| What you’re seeing | What it usually means | What to do first |
|---|---|---|
| Temps drift warm, freezer still cold | Airflow or fan issue | Check vents, listen for evaporator fan, confirm doors seal |
| Doors pop open or won’t close | Bin/shelf alignment or leveling | Re-seat bins and shelves; level the cabinet |
| Loud pulsating or high-pitched sound | Normal efficient compressor behavior | Confirm cabinet is not vibrating against wall/cabinets |
Why it matters
A refrigerator that runs longer than necessary (from poor clearance, air leaks, or blocked airflow) puts extra wear on the compressor and fans. Reducing run time is the most reliable way to extend service life and keep temperatures stable.
For model-specific care and operating guidance, follow the 11173029710 owner's manual.
If you’re troubleshooting display codes on Kenmore 111 bottom-freezer designs, use our Kenmore 111 model bottom freezer refrigerator error codes reference.
Last updated: February 2026
How to tell cubic feet of Kenmore refrigerator by model number?
For Kenmore model 11173029710, the most reliable way to get cubic feet is to look up the capacity in the product specifications section of the owner's manual. If you only have the model number and no spec sheet, you can calculate capacity by measuring the interior and converting cubic inches to cubic feet.
Fast ways to find cubic feet (capacity)
- Check the model tag inside the fresh food compartment (commonly on a side wall, near the crisper area, or on the ceiling), then match it to the specs in the owner's manual.
- Look for a “capacity” or “specifications” listing in the manual; that is the stated total cubic feet.
- Measure and calculate if you need an estimate (useful when comparing refrigerator sizes).
How to calculate cubic feet from interior measurements
- Empty the compartment enough to measure.
- Measure the usable interior:
- Height (inches)
- Width (inches)
- Depth (inches)
- Multiply:
H x W x D = cubic inches - Convert:
cubic inches ÷ 1728 = cubic feet
Quick conversion table
| What you have | What to do | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Interior inches (H, W, D) | Multiply H x W x D | Cubic inches |
| Cubic inches | Divide by 1728 | Cubic feet |
Tips so your estimate is realistic
- Measure usable space, not the outside cabinet dimensions.
- Subtract areas taken up by fixed components (air ducts, light housing, ice maker compartment, shelves) if you want a closer “net” number.
- If you measure both sections, calculate refrigerator compartment and freezer compartment separately, then add them.
Why it matters
Cubic feet is the standard way to compare refrigerator capacity across Kenmore bottom-mount models; it helps you choose the right replacement shelves, bins, and storage layout, and it makes “like-for-like” comparisons easier when shopping or troubleshooting cooling performance.
Last updated: February 2026
How to tell what model Kenmore refrigerator?
To tell what model Kenmore refrigerator you have, find the model and serial number on the identification label inside the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment. For Kenmore model 11173029710 (a bottom-freezer, bottom-mount design), the label is on the interior liner of the refrigerator compartment; see the 11173029710 owner's manual for the exact location.
Where to look on the refrigerator
Check these common label locations first (use a flashlight and look for a white or silver sticker/plate):
- Inside the fresh food compartment on a side wall
- On the ceiling area inside the fresh food compartment
- Behind or beside the crisper drawers (slide drawers out to see the liner)
- Along the door frame area (hinge side) when the door is open
- On the interior liner of the refrigerator compartment (a common Kenmore location)
What to write down
Copy the information exactly as printed so we can match the correct parts diagrams and troubleshooting info.
- Model number (for this unit: 11173029710)
- Serial number
- Date of purchase (helpful for your records)
Quick reference
| Item | Typical format | What we use it for |
|---|---|---|
| Model number | Numbers, sometimes with a series prefix | Matching the correct parts list and manual |
| Serial number | Letters and numbers | Identifying the specific production unit |
If the label is missing or hard to read
- Clean it gently with a damp cloth, then dry it
- Take a close-up photo and zoom in
- Double-check look-alike characters (0 vs O, 1 vs I)
- If the label is damaged, use the model family shown in paperwork and confirm details in the 11173029710 owner's manual
Why it matters
Kenmore model numbers are the key to getting the right shelves, drawers, door bins, ice maker parts, and water system components for your exact refrigerator configuration.
For troubleshooting by series, you can also use the Kenmore 111 model bottom freezer refrigerator error codes guide.
Last updated: February 2026
How to tell if a Kenmore refrigerator compressor is bad?
On Kenmore model 11173029710, a bad compressor shows up as both compartments staying warm even though power is on; you may also hear repeated clicking or buzzing from the compressor area as it fails to start. First, compare what you are seeing to normal run time and noise notes in the 11173029710 owner's manual.
Quick signs that point to a compressor problem
- Refrigerator and freezer are both warm and do not recover after 24 hours of continuous operation.
- Repeated click every few minutes from the back or bottom area, but cooling never begins.
- Loud buzzing or humming for a few seconds, then a click (failed start attempt).
- Compressor gets very hot, then shuts off and repeats (overload cycling).
- Fans run but there is little to no cooling.
What can be normal on this model
The manual describes several conditions that can look like a compressor issue but are normal:
- After installation or power is restored, it can take up to 24 hours to cool completely.
- At about 70°F room temperature, the compressor normally runs about 40% to 80% of the time; it runs more in warmer conditions.
- Clicking (defrost control or thermostat cycling), gurgling (refrigerant flow), whooshing (fans), and a pulsating or high-pitched sound can be normal.
Checks to do before condemning the compressor
- Give it time: After a temperature change or power loss, allow a full 24 hours.
- Confirm doors seal and close: Warm air leaks force long run times.
- Reduce door openings and hot food loads: These can keep temperatures high.
- Clean airflow: Vacuum the condenser cover and vents; do not remove the panel covering the condenser coil area.
- Listen for the pattern: Steady running is different from repeated click-try-stop cycles.
Symptom guide
| What you notice | Most common cause | Best next step |
|---|---|---|
| Runs a lot, still warm | Airflow restriction, doors not sealing, warm room | Clean vents, verify door closure, recheck temps |
| Clicks repeatedly, won’t start | Start device or compressor locked | Have a technician test start components and compressor |
| Fans run, no cooling | Sealed system or compressor problem | Technician-level sealed system diagnosis |
Why it matters
A compressor or sealed system repair is a major job; ruling out normal long run times, door issues, and condenser airflow problems prevents unnecessary repairs and helps restore safe food temperatures faster.
Last updated: February 2026





