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Kenmore 10689592100 ice cube maker

Kenmore 10689592100 ice cube maker Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 10689592100 ice cube maker, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 10689592100 Ice Cube Maker

  • Technical Sheet for Kenmore 10689592100 - Part W10492485

    Cabinet, door and liner parts diagram

    Technical Sheet

    Part #W10492485

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Ice Maker Ice Bin Door for Kenmore 10689592100 - Part 2185742

    Cabinet, door and liner parts diagram

    Ice Maker Ice Bin Door

    Part #2185742

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Owner's Manual for Kenmore 10689592100 - Part W10568967

    Cabinet, door and liner parts diagram

    Owner's Manual

    Part #W10568967

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Kenmore Ice Cube Maker 10689592100 FAQs

If your Kenmore 10689592100 freestanding ice maker runs but makes no ice, the most common causes are the control being OFF, the water supply being shut off, a loose drain cap that empties the water pan, or a problem in the water circulation and cutting system. Use the checks below, then follow the troubleshooting chart in the owner's manual.

Quick checks that fix “runs but no ice”

  • Confirm the ice maker control is set to ON.
  • Verify the household water supply valve is open and the supply line is connected.
  • Tighten the drain cap (a loose cap can drain the water pan and prevent normal ice formation).
  • Clean the drain tube and make sure the drain line is not kinked.
  • Make sure the cutter grid is seated securely and its harness plug is connected.
  • Check that the water filter is installed correctly (if equipped).

What’s happening inside the machine (why one failure stops ice)

Your model constantly circulates water over a freezing plate; once the ice sheet reaches thickness, it releases onto a cutter grid, then mineral-heavy water drains and fresh water refills for the next cycle. If water cannot fill, circulate, or stay in the pan, the unit can run without producing cubes.

Parts that commonly cause “no ice” on this model

If the basic checks above do not restore ice production, these model-matched parts are common suspects:

Symptom you see What it often points to Model-matched part to consider
No water entering for a cycle Failed inlet valve or supply issue Ice maker water inlet valve W10881366
Water present but not circulating over the plate Weak or failed recirculation pump Freestanding ice maker recirculation pump W11566406
Unit behavior is erratic, cycles wrong, or won’t initiate ice making Control not driving the cycle correctly Ice maker electronic control board W11034363

Why it matters

When the water pan does not fill and hold water, or water is not recirculated over the freezing plate, the machine can sound like it is operating but never builds an ice sheet to drop onto the cutter grid.

Last updated: February 2026

For the Kenmore 10689592100 freestanding ice maker, the most reliable “reset” is a power reset: unplug the unit (or disconnect power) for 1 minute, then restore power and turn the control back on. This clears minor control glitches and restarts the ice-making cycle.

Quick reset steps (power reset)

  • Turn the ice maker control OFF (if your control panel has an on/off setting).
  • Unplug the ice maker or disconnect power at the breaker.
  • Wait 60 seconds.
  • Plug back in (or restore power).
  • Turn the control ON and allow time for the next harvest and refill.

For control locations and normal cycle timing, use the owner's manual.

If it still will not restart after a reset

These checks solve the most common “won’t run after reset” situations:

  • Confirm the unit is plugged into a grounded 3-prong outlet.
  • Check the home fuse/circuit breaker.
  • Make sure the room temperature is above 55°F; colder rooms can keep the bin thermostat from calling for ice.
  • If your unit has a drain pump and you recently added a lot of water, wait a few minutes for the pump to clear.
  • Inspect the drain hose for kinks or pinches (a drain issue can stop production).

What you should hear and see after a successful reset

Some sounds right after restart are normal:

  • Buzzing when the water valve opens to fill
  • Water splashing or running over the evaporator plate
  • Compressor sounds (pulsing or higher-pitched)

Normal vs. problem symptoms

After reset Usually normal Usually needs troubleshooting
Water fill sound Brief buzz, then stops No fill sound at all, or constant fill/overflow
Operation Compressor cycles on/off Unit completely dead, trips breaker
Ice First batch takes time Thin ice or no ice after multiple cycles

Why it matters

A reset only helps if the issue is a temporary control or power interruption. If water supply, temperature sensing, or draining is the real cause, the ice maker can appear “stuck” even though the control is working.

Last updated: February 2026

Yes, it’s usually worth replacing an ice maker when the rest of the appliance is cooling normally and the problem is isolated to ice production. For Kenmore model 10689592100, we recommend confirming basic operating conditions first (power, water supply, room temperature) before investing in major parts. See the 10689592100 owner's manual.

Quick checks before you replace anything

These items cause “no ice” or “low ice” complaints most often, and they are specifically called out in the troubleshooting guidance for this style of ice maker:

  • Confirm the unit is plugged into a grounded 3-prong outlet and the control is turned ON.
  • Verify the water supply is connected and turned ON.
  • Make sure room temperature is above 55°F (13°C); colder rooms can make the bin thermostat shut the unit off.
  • If the unit runs but makes no ice, tighten the drain cap and check for a dirty drain tube or kinked drain line.
  • If ice production is low, remember that room temps above 90°F (32°C) reduce output.
  • Break up clumped ice in the bin; the bin is not refrigerated, so some melting and refreezing is normal.

When replacement is the smart move

Replacing parts is a good value when the machine otherwise runs normally and you can point to a likely failed component.

Symptom What it often points to Example part to consider
Runs but produces no ice Water not filling correctly Ice maker water inlet valve W10881366
Intermittent or incorrect temperature sensing Sensor/thermistor issue Thermistor WPW10511923
Won’t drain properly (pump models) Drain pump problem Ice maker drain pump W11542868
Dead controls or erratic operation Control board issue Ice maker electronic control board W11034363

When replacement is usually not worth it

We typically steer customers away from major repairs when the issue is not isolated to the ice maker function.

  • The unit has multiple symptoms (poor cooling plus ice issues, repeated shutdowns, heavy noise).
  • You suspect sealed-system problems (cooling performance is weak even after cleaning airflow paths).
  • Repair cost is approaching the cost of replacing the entire appliance.

Why it matters

This type of freestanding ice maker recirculates water over a freezing plate, then drains mineral-heavy water after each cycle. If water supply, drain, or temperature conditions are off, you can get thin ice, no ice, or frequent shutoffs even when the machine itself is still “good.”

Last updated: February 2026

Yes, for Kenmore model 10689592100, many owners can handle common ice maker repairs themselves if you follow safe shutdown steps first (unplug power and shut off water). For sealed-system work or anything involving refrigerant, we recommend using a qualified technician.

Before you start (safety and prep)

  • Unplug the ice maker (disconnect power before servicing).
  • Shut off the water supply.
  • Remove ice from the storage bin.
  • Drain the water pan by removing the drain cap; reinstall it securely afterward.
  • Keep towels handy for water in the inlet and outlet lines.
  • Take a quick photo of wire connections before unplugging anything.

What DIY replacement usually looks like on this model

The owner's manual outlines access and shutdown steps that make DIY work more straightforward, such as removing the lower access panel (4 screws total) and draining water before servicing.

Common DIY-friendly tasks include:

  • Cleaning condenser fins and the unit compartment (airflow issues can reduce ice production).
  • Replacing electrical parts that plug in or mount with screws.
  • Swapping a pump or valve if you can access the lower compartment and reconnect hoses securely.

Parts that commonly solve “no ice” or “low ice” symptoms

Symptom What to check first Part that may be involved
Runs but no ice Water supply on, drain cap tight, drain tube clear Ice maker water inlet valve W10881366
Thin ice or no ice Drain cap loose or leaking from water pan Drain cap seating (no part needed)
Poor circulation or slow production Water movement during cycle Freestanding ice maker recirculation pump W11566406
Not draining properly Drain line, pump operation Ice maker drain pump W11542868

Why it matters

Doing the shutdown and draining steps correctly prevents leaks, protects electrical components, and helps you avoid “thin ice” or “no ice” problems caused by a loose drain cap or restricted drain path.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your freestanding ice makers

Choose a symptom to see related ice maker repairs.

Main causes: water supply problems, control board failure, weak recirculation pump, clogged water distributer, faulty cu…

Main causes: dirty evaporator plate, untreated water supply, food items being stored in ice storage bin…

Main causes: wiring failure, broken cutting grid, faulty electronic control board…

Main causes: bad bin thermistor, condenser fan failure, faulty control board…

Main causes: failing compressor, bad condenser fan motor, faulty drain pump, bad recirculation pump, water supply proble…

Main causes: cracked water supply line, leaky drain line, broken drain pump, cracked water reservoir, leaky ice bin…

Main causes: bad electronic control board, water supply problems, faulty recirculation pump, sealed system failure, brok…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, faulty bin thermistor, bad eva…

Most common repair guides to help fix your freestanding ice makers

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your ice maker.

How to replace a freestanding ice maker cutter grid

How to replace a freestanding ice maker cutter grid

When the cutting grid is broken, ice cubes don’t drop into the ice bin. Use the steps in this repair guide to replace a…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to replace a freestanding ice maker recirculation pump

How to replace a freestanding ice maker recirculation pump

If your ice maker isn’t making ice, the pump could be the problem. Here’s how to replace it. …

Repair time and Difficulty

 45 minutes or less
How to replace a freestanding ice maker electronic control board

How to replace a freestanding ice maker electronic control board

When the electronic control board won’t activate the ice maker components, follow these steps to install a new one.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 45 minutes or less

Effective articles & videos to help repair your freestanding ice makers

Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your ice maker.

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Using a wiring schematic to trace a current video

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Freestanding ice maker cleaning tips

Freestanding ice maker cleaning tips

Learn how to keep your freestanding ice maker operating at its peak by following these simple cleaning tips.…

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Ice maker common questions

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