Kenmore 79094173310 electric range Parts

For Kenmore electric range model 79094173310, the reliable “reset” for the oven control board is a power reset: turn the range power OFF at the breaker (or unplug it) for about 5 minutes, then restore power and set the clock. This clears many display and keypad glitches.

Safe reset steps (recommended)

• Turn OFF the range circuit breaker (240V) or unplug the cord.
• Wait 5 minutes (10 minutes if the display was frozen or showing an error).
• Turn power back ON.
• Set the clock and test Bake and Broil.
• If the oven was in Self Clean, allow the door lock to finish cycling before testing.

For electrical safety and access-panel cautions, follow the 79094173310 installation guide.

If the reset does not fix it

A power reset will not correct a failed sensor, stuck relay, or a shorted keypad. These are the most common next checks:

• Error code returns immediately: look up the code and follow the pinpoint steps.
• Oven heats wrong or shuts off: test the oven temperature sensor.
• Broil or bake will not heat: inspect the heating element(s) and wiring.
• Buttons beep or act “pressed”: the touchpad/control overlay can be the cause.

Helpful model-family troubleshooting: Kenmore 790 self-cleaning range error codes.

Parts that commonly relate to “control board” symptoms

Symptom	Common cause	Example part for this model
Oven temp inaccurate, F-code related to temp	Oven temperature sensor out of range	Frigidaire range oven temperature sensor 316490000
Hot surface light stays on, burner acts erratic	Surface element control switch stuck	Frigidaire range surface element control switch 316436001
Door won’t unlock after clean, lock errors	Door lock motor/switch issue	Range oven door lock motor and switch assembly 5304528973

Why it matters

Resetting power is a fast way to clear a software-style glitch, but repeated failures usually point to a component problem (sensor, element, door lock, wiring, or the control interface). Fixing the root cause prevents nuisance error codes and protects the oven from overheating.

Last updated: February 2026

For your Kenmore electric range model 79094173310, the model number is printed on a rating label attached to the range cabinet. On most ranges, we find it in the oven door jamb area or on the frame behind the storage drawer or lower panel; it can also be on the back near the vent.

Where to look first (fastest checks)

• Open the oven door and check the door jamb and front frame.
• Pull out the storage drawer (or remove the lower panel) and look on the frame.
• Check the back panel near the vent area.
• Look along the side of the unit near the lower cabinet.

What the label looks like

The label usually includes:

• Model number (for example, 79094173310)
• Serial number
• Electrical ratings (volts/amps)
• Manufacturer information

Why the exact model number matters

Kenmore model numbers can look similar, but parts like a bake element, oven temperature sensor, or surface element control switch can vary by revision. Using the exact model number helps us match the correct diagrams, wiring, and replacement parts for your range.

Quick checklist once you find it

What to record	Example	Why we need it
Model number	79094173310	Matches the correct parts list
Serial number	(varies)	Helps confirm production run
Power type	Electric	Confirms compatible electrical parts

Helpful reference

For model-specific label locations and cabinet access points, use the 79094173310 installation guide.

Last updated: February 2026

On a Kenmore 79094173310 electric range, an oven that “stops working” is usually caused by a power supply problem (tripped breaker, loose terminal block connection), a failed heating component (bake or broil element), or a control/sensing failure such as a bad oven temperature sensor.

Start with power and wiring (most common)

If the display is dead, the oven will not heat, or it works intermittently, check the home power first, then the range connection.

• Reset the range breaker fully OFF, then ON (electric ranges typically use a 240V circuit).
• If the cooktop works but the oven does not, power is present but an oven component may have failed.
• If nothing works, inspect the power cord and terminal block area for loose or overheated connections.
• Follow the wiring method for your home (3-wire for existing installations only; 4-wire for new branch circuits and mobile homes).
• Do not loosen factory-installed nuts at the terminal block; that can cause loss of electrical connection.

For the correct connection method and safety notes, use the 79094173310 installation guide.

Common failed parts when the oven will not heat

These are the most frequent culprits on electric ranges when the unit has power but the oven will not bake or broil.

• Burned-out bake element (often visible blistering or a break)
• Failed broil element (top element does not glow or heat)
• Open or inaccurate oven temperature sensor
• Electronic oven control problem (less common than elements/sensor)
• Door lock system stuck after self-clean (can prevent heating on some models)

Quick part-to-symptom guide

Symptom	Most likely cause	Good next check
Oven will not bake, broil works	Bake element	Look for damage; test continuity
Oven will not broil, bake works	Broil element	Test broil element continuity
Oven heats but temperature is wrong	Sensor	Compare sensor resistance at room temp
Oven dead or intermittent	Power/terminal block	Inspect connections and cord

Model-matched parts that often solve “no heat” complaints include the frigidaire range oven temperature sensor 316490000 and the range broil element 316203301.

Why it matters

An oven that stops heating is often a simple, fixable failure (element or sensor). Power connection issues are also critical because loose terminal block connections can cause repeated shutdowns and overheating.

Last updated: February 2026

On Kenmore model 79094173310, the “fuse” you are usually looking for is a thermal fuse or high-limit safety device mounted on the back of the range, behind the rear access panel, near the oven wiring and element circuits. Use the wiring diagram in the 79094173310 owner's manual to identify the exact component and location.

What you will typically find (and where)

Many electric ranges do not use a single, easy-to-spot plug-in fuse for the oven heat. Instead, you will commonly see one of these safety parts:

• Thermal fuse or thermal cutout: often on the rear sheet metal, inline with oven power wiring
• High-limit thermostat: usually on the back of the oven cavity or near the top rear
• Household breaker (most common “no power” cause): in your electrical panel, not inside the range

Safe way to access the rear panel

Before removing any panels, we follow the same safety mindset used in the installation instructions for proper electrical connection and grounding.

• Turn OFF the range at the double-pole breaker (240V)
• Confirm the cooktop and oven are cool
• Pull the range forward carefully (protect the floor)
• Remove the rear access cover screws and lift the panel off
• Look for a small, flat safety device with two wires connected (often near bake or broil wiring)

Quick diagnosis checklist (before replacing parts)

Use this to avoid replacing the wrong component:

• If the display is dead: check the breaker, then inspect the terminal block and power cord connections
• If the oven will not heat but the cooktop works: suspect the bake element, broil element, or oven temperature sensor
• If the oven overheated or shut down after self-clean: suspect a thermal cutout/high-limit issue
• If only one surface burner acts up: suspect the matching surface element control switch

Common related parts for this model

These parts are often involved in “no heat” or temperature complaints (not all are fuses):

Symptom	Common suspect	Example part for this model
Oven temperature inaccurate	Oven temperature sensor	Oven temperature sensor 316490000
Oven will not bake	Bake element	Bake element 316407501
Broil not working	Broil element	Broil element 316203301

Why it matters

A thermal fuse or high-limit device is a safety cutoff. If it opens, it is usually reacting to overheating, airflow restrictions, or an electrical fault. Finding the cause helps prevent repeat failures and protects key components like the control and wiring.

Last updated: February 2026