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Kenmore 11061062000 dryer

Kenmore 11061062000 dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 11061062000 dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 11061062000 Dryer

  • Whirlpool Dryer Drum Support Roller for Kenmore 11061062000 - Part WPW10314173

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    Support Kit

    Part #3396801

    Replaced by #WPW10314173

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  • Dryer Heating Element By Whirlpool for Kenmore 11061062000 - Part WP3387747

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    Dryer Heating Element

    Part #3387747

    Replaced by #WP3387747

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Idler Pulley for Kenmore 11061062000 - Part W10837240

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    Bracket

    Part #3388674

    Replaced by #W10837240

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Idler Pulley for Kenmore 11061062000 - Part 279640

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    Dryer Idler Pulley

    Part #3388672

    Replaced by #279640

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  • Dryer Blower Wheel for Kenmore 11061062000 - Part WP697772

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    Dryer Blower Wheel

    Part #697772

    Replaced by #WP697772

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cut-off Fuse Kit for Kenmore 11061062000 - Part 279973

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    Cut-off Tmnl

    Part #3977395

    Replaced by #279973

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  • Dryer Door Latch Kit for Kenmore 11061062000 - Part 279570

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    Strike

    Part #696144

    Replaced by #279570

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  • Dryer Door Latch Kit for Kenmore 11061062000 - Part 279570

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    Catch

    Part #690081

    Replaced by #279570

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse, 195-degree F for Kenmore 11061062000 - Part WP3390719

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    Dryer Thermal Fuse

    Part #3390719

    Replaced by #WP3390719

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  • Dryer Moisture Sensor for Kenmore 11061062000 - Part WP3387223

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    Dryer Moisture Sensor

    Part #3387223

    Replaced by #WP3387223

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Kenmore Dryer 11061062000 FAQs

If your Kenmore dryer model 11061062000 runs but clothes stay damp or cold, the heating element is a top suspect. We confirm it by checking airflow first, then testing the element for continuity with a multimeter; an open circuit means the element has failed.

Quick symptoms to look for

  • Dryer tumbles normally but produces little or no heat
  • Cycles take much longer than normal to dry
  • Clothes feel cool at the end of a heated cycle
  • Burning smell or visible scorching inside the heater housing
  • Breaker trips when heat should turn on (less common)

Before you test: rule out airflow problems

Poor venting can mimic a bad heater and can also cause repeated overheating failures.

  • Clean the lint screen and confirm it is not torn or clogged
  • Check the exhaust duct for kinks, crushing, or heavy lint buildup
  • Make sure the outside vent hood opens freely
  • Run a timed dry cycle and confirm strong airflow at the vent outlet

How to test the heating element (basic continuity check)

  1. Disconnect power (unplug the dryer; for electric dryers, verify power is off).
  2. Access the heater terminals (location varies by design).
  3. Remove at least one wire from the element terminal.
  4. Set a multimeter to continuity or resistance (ohms).
  5. Test across the element terminals.

What the meter results mean

Meter result What it usually indicates Next step
Continuity present (finite resistance) Element is not open Check thermostats, thermal fuse, airflow
No continuity (open circuit) Heating element is bad Replace the element

If you need the correct replacement for this model, use the exact part listed for your dryer: dryer heating element WP3387747.

A good element still will not heat if a safety device is open.

Why it matters

Replacing the heating element without fixing restricted airflow often leads to repeat failures of the heater, thermal fuse, or high-limit thermostat. A quick vent inspection saves time and protects the new part.

Last updated: January 2026

To hard reset a Kenmore dryer model 11061062000, we disconnect power long enough to clear the control and then restore power for a fresh start. If the dryer still will not run or heat after the reset, we troubleshoot airflow and safety devices next.

Hard reset steps (works for most Kenmore dryers)

  • Turn the dryer OFF.
  • Unplug the power cord (or switch the dryer breaker OFF).
  • Wait 1 to 5 minutes.
  • Restore power.
  • Select a normal cycle and press Start.

If the reset does not fix it

A reset clears a temporary control glitch, but it will not bypass a failed safety part or a venting problem. Check these common causes:

  • No heat or stops mid-cycle: restricted venting, overheating, or a blown thermal fuse
  • Will not start: door not latching, failed door switch, or blown thermal fuse
  • Long dry times: lint screen clogged, crushed exhaust duct, blocked outside hood
  • Overheating smell: lint buildup in the blower housing or ducting

Parts that commonly stop the dryer after an overheat

If airflow is restricted, the dryer can overheat and open a safety circuit. These parts are common on Kenmore 110-series designs:

Quick comparison

Symptom Most likely area to check Typical fix
Runs but no heat Heating circuit Test heater and safety devices; replace failed part
Won’t start at all Door switch or safety circuit Verify latch, test fuse/switch
Takes too long to dry Venting and airflow Clean lint path; correct ducting

Why it matters

A hard reset is safe and fast, but repeated overheating usually points to a vent restriction. Fixing airflow protects the heating element, thermostats, and wiring, and helps the dryer dry faster with less wear.

Last updated: January 2026

A bad dryer switch on Kenmore model 11061062000 usually shows up as a dryer that will not start even though it has power. We confirm it by unplugging the dryer and checking the switch with a multimeter; the reading should change when the switch is pressed.

Quick symptoms to look for

  • Dryer will not start, but the drum light and other functions may still work
  • Start button feels loose, sticks, or does not “click” consistently
  • Dryer starts only if you press and hold the button in a certain spot
  • Intermittent starting (works sometimes, dead other times)
  • No change in behavior after resetting the breaker

How we test a dryer switch (basic continuity check)

  1. Unplug the dryer (or switch off the breaker) before opening any panels.
  2. Access the switch (often in the control console area).
  3. Remove at least one wire from the switch terminal so you are not reading through the circuit.
  4. Set a multimeter to continuity or ohms (Ω).
  5. Test the switch:
    • Not pressed: meter should read open/infinite resistance
    • Pressed: meter should read closed/near 0 Ω

If the reading never changes, or stays open when pressed, the switch is bad.

What else can mimic a bad switch

A “no start” complaint is not always the start switch. Check these common causes first:

  • Door not closing fully (latch/strike alignment)
  • Blown thermal fuse (often caused by restricted venting) such as dryer thermal fuse WP3390719
  • Failed drive motor such as drive motor 279787
  • Loose wire connection at the switch or timer/control

Fast comparison table

What you see Most likely issue What to do next
Button pressed, no click, no continuity change Start switch Replace the switch (match by model)
Dryer runs, but shuts off and will not restart Overheat protection Check venting, test thermal fuse
Door must be slammed to start Door closure issue Inspect strike and latch alignment

Why it matters

A failing switch can look like a power problem, but it is usually a simple control-circuit failure. Testing the switch and the thermal fuse first helps avoid replacing larger parts unnecessarily.

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your dryers

Choose a symptom to see related dryer repairs.

Main causes: bad gas valve coils, broken heating element, tripped safety thermostat or fuse, bad operating thermostat, c…

Main causes: clogged exhaust system, heating system failure, deposits on moisture sensor, control system failure…

Main causes: clogged exhaust vent, bad motor relay, loose dryer door catch, bad door switch, control system failure, fau…

Main causes: door switch failure, lack of power, broken belt, blown thermal fuse, bad drive motor, control system failur…

Main causes: damaged door strike, worn door catch…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, blown thermal fuse, bad door s…

Main causes: bad timer or electronic control board, door switch failure…

Main causes: bad drum support roller, damaged idler pulley, broken blower fan blade, worn drum glide bearing, bad drive …

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