Kenmore 79570323310 refrigerator Parts

To tell what model Kenmore refrigerator you have, look for the model/serial tag on the cabinet (not on a removable drawer). On Kenmore model 79570323310, it’s typically inside the fresh food section on a side wall or ceiling area, or inside the freezer compartment on an inner wall; confirm the exact label location in the 79570323310 owner’s manual.

Where to look for the model/serial tag

Check these common spots first (use a flashlight and look for a sticker or metal plate):

• Inside the refrigerator compartment on the left or right side wall
• On the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment near the light housing
• Inside the freezer compartment on a side wall
• Behind the lower kick plate or toe grille area (front bottom)
• Along the door frame area (cabinet frame, not the door itself)

What the model number should look like

For this Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator, the model number is a 10 to 11-digit number. For example:

What you see on the tag	What it means
79570323310	Full model number used to match parts and manuals
Serial number	Production identifier (helps with age and service history)

Why it matters

We use the exact model number to match the correct diagrams, parts, and troubleshooting steps. Even one digit off can point to a different Kenmore 795-series variation with different shelves, door gaskets, ice maker parts, or a different water filter style.

Quick tip if the label is hard to read

If the tag is smudged or peeling:

• Take a close-up photo with your phone and zoom in
• Wipe gently with a damp cloth (do not use abrasive cleaners)
• Write down the full model number and serial number before ordering parts

Last updated: January 2026

If your Kenmore 79570323310 bottom-mount refrigerator isn’t cooling properly and the compressor area is unusually hot, noisy, or repeatedly tries to start and then shuts off, the compressor system may be failing. Use the troubleshooting guidance in the 79570323310 user manual to confirm basic operating checks first.

Quick signs the compressor system may be the problem

Look for these common symptoms (some can also be caused by airflow, defrost, or control issues):

• Refrigerator and freezer are both warm, but interior lights and display work
• You hear repeated clicking every few minutes (start attempt, then stop)
• Compressor is very hot to the touch and the unit runs almost constantly
• Breaker trips or the outlet/GFCI trips when the compressor tries to start
• Condenser fan runs but cooling does not improve

What to check before blaming the compressor

A “bad compressor” is less common than a problem that prevents the compressor from running correctly.

• Power and controls: Make sure the temperature settings are correct and the unit is not in a special mode.
• Condenser airflow: Clean dust from the condenser area and confirm the condenser fan is running.
• Evaporator airflow: If the freezer fan is not moving air, the refrigerator can warm up even with a good compressor.
• Frost pattern: Heavy frost on the evaporator cover can point to a defrost problem instead of a compressor issue.
• Start components: A failed run capacitor or overload can stop a good compressor from starting.

Parts commonly involved in “compressor not running” complaints

If diagnostics point to the sealed system or start circuit, these model-compatible parts are commonly involved:

Symptom	Often related part	Example for this model
Clicks, won’t start	Run capacitor	Refrigerator run capacitor EAE58905704
Overheats, shuts off	Overload protector	Refrigerator compressor overload protector 6750CL0001D
Runs but won’t cool	Compressor or sealed system	Refrigerator compressor TCA38091801

Why it matters

A compressor diagnosis affects cost and repair approach. Ruling out airflow, defrost, and start-device problems first helps avoid replacing major parts unnecessarily and can restore cooling faster.

Last updated: January 2026

Ice on the bottom of the freezer in your Kenmore 79570323310 almost always happens when defrost water cannot drain to the pan underneath, so it pools, refreezes, and builds into a sheet of ice. The most common cause is a clogged or frozen defrost drain path.

What to check first (fast, no parts)

• Unplug the refrigerator before removing freezer panels or using a hair dryer.
• Remove the freezer drawer and look for a solid ice layer on the freezer floor.
• Check for a frozen “ice dam” at the drain trough under the evaporator cover.
• Melt the ice with warm air (hair dryer on low) and towels; do not chip ice with sharp tools.
• Flush the drain with hot water using a turkey baster until it flows freely to the drain pan.

For panel removal and access points specific to this model, follow the 79570323310 manual.

Likely causes and the matching fix

What you see	Most likely cause	What usually fixes it
Ice sheet only on freezer bottom	Drain clogged with food debris or ice	Thaw and flush the drain line
Water returns after a few days	Drain tube partially restricted or refreezing	Clean tube, confirm steady flow to pan
Frost plus ice buildup	Door not sealing, humid air entering	Inspect gaskets, correct door alignment

Parts that can be involved on this model

If flushing helps only temporarily, the drain line itself may be restricted or not routing water correctly. A common service item for drain issues on this model is the refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D.

Other conditions that can worsen icing:

• Torn or warped freezer door gasket (warm air causes excess frost and meltwater)
• Freezer drawer not closing fully (packages blocking the rails)
• Heavy frost on the evaporator cover (possible defrost system issue)

Why it matters

When water cannot exit through the defrost drain, it refreezes at the lowest point and can eventually interfere with the freezer drawer, cause leaks during defrost, and lead to recurring frost problems.

Last updated: January 2026