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Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 washer

Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 washer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 washer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for LSR7333PQ0 Washer

  • Whirlpool Washer Agitator Dog Set for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 - Part 80040

    Agitator, basket and tub parts diagram

    Agitator Dog

    Part #3366877

    Replaced by #80040

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  • Whirlpool Washer Clutch for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 - Part 285785

    Brake, clutch, gearcase, motor and pump parts diagram

    Clutch

    Part #3951311

    Replaced by #285785

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  • Whirlpool Washer Gear Case for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 - Part 3360629

    Gearcase parts diagram

    Actuator

    Part #62621

    Replaced by #3360629

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  • Whirlpool Washer Gear Case for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 - Part 3360629

    Gearcase parts diagram

    Pinion

    Part #63320

    Replaced by #3360629

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  • Whirlpool Washer Gear Case for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 - Part 3360629

    Gear Case

    Part #3360630

    Replaced by #3360629

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  • Whirlpool Washer Gear Case for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 - Part 3360629

    Gearcase parts diagram

    Gear

    Part #62570

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  • Whirlpool Washer Gear Case for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 - Part 3360629

    Gearcase parts diagram

    Rack

    Part #3349296

    Replaced by #3360629

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  • Whirlpool Washer Drain Pump for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 - Part WP3363394

    Brake, clutch, gearcase, motor and pump parts diagram

    Washer Drain Pump

    Part #3363394

    Replaced by #WP3363394

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  • Washer Drive Block for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 - Part WP389140

    Agitator, basket and tub parts diagram

    Washer Drive Block

    Part #389140

    Replaced by #WP389140

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  • Whirlpool Washer Basket Drive Assembly for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 - Part W10820043

    Drive Basket

    Part #388952

    Replaced by #W10820043

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Whirlpool Washer LSR7333PQ0 FAQs

On the Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 washer, the most reliable “lid lock reset” is a power reset: unplug the washer (or switch the breaker off) for 5 minutes, restore power, then start a new cycle and close the lid firmly. If the lock still will not engage or release, the lid switch circuit is likely failing and the fix is replacing the switch assembly.

Quick reset steps (safe and effective)

  • Turn the control to Off.
  • Unplug the washer for 5 minutes (or turn the breaker off).
  • Plug back in.
  • Lift and close the lid firmly (do not slam).
  • Select a normal cycle and press Start.
  • If the lid is stuck locked, wait 1 to 2 minutes after canceling the cycle for the lock to time out.

When a “reset” will not work (common causes)

A reset only clears a temporary control glitch. If the problem returns, check these common issues:

  • Lid not closing squarely (hinge or lid alignment issue)
  • Broken lid strike or worn latch area
  • Intermittent lid switch contacts
  • Loose wiring connection at the lid switch
  • Control never “sees” the lid closed, so it will not spin or drain

If these symptoms match what you see, replacing the washer lid switch assembly WP8318084 is the standard repair for this model.

What you should see: normal vs. problem behavior

What happens What it usually means What to do next
Lid locks, then unlocks at end of cycle Normal operation No action needed
Won’t spin and acts like lid is open Lid switch not closing Inspect lid alignment; consider switch replacement
Lid stays locked after cancel Control waiting for timeout or switch stuck Power reset; if recurring, replace switch
Clicking near lid area Switch trying to engage but not confirming Check lid closure; replace switch if persistent

Why it matters

The lid lock or lid switch is a safety system. On a top-load washer like the LSR7333PQ0, the washer will stop spinning and may refuse to drain or advance if it cannot confirm the lid is closed.

Parts and help

You can order model-correct replacement parts from the parts list for your washer, or search by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

A low-flow (slow fill) problem on your Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 washer almost always comes from restricted water supply to the inlet valve. We fix it by confirming strong water pressure at the wall, clearing inlet screen blockages, and replacing the inlet valve if it cannot open fully.

Quick checks (most common fixes)

  • Make sure both hot and cold shutoff valves are fully open.
  • Straighten any kinked fill hoses; replace hoses that are swollen or collapsing.
  • Remove the hoses and clean the small inlet screens at the washer connections.
  • Check the hose washers for debris that can block flow.
  • Run a fill test on warm; if warm is slow, one side is restricted.
  • If your home has a flood-safety hose or pressure-limiting device, temporarily remove it to test flow.

When a part is likely needed

If the screens are clean and you still get slow fill, the valve can be sticking internally. On this model, the most direct replacement is the washer inlet valve 285805.

Symptoms and what they usually mean

Symptom Most likely cause What to do next
Cold fills slowly, hot is normal Cold supply restriction or clogged screen Clean screens; verify cold valve flow
Hot fills slowly, cold is normal Hot supply restriction or clogged screen Clean screens; verify hot valve flow
Both hot and cold fill slowly Low house pressure or failing inlet valve Verify pressure; replace inlet valve
Fills fine, but error appears later Drain issue causing refill attempts Check drain path and pump

Don’t overlook draining (it can look like “low flow”)

If the washer is siphoning or not draining, it may keep trying to refill. Check:

  • Drain hose is not shoved too far down the standpipe.
  • Standpipe height is typical (most installs are roughly 39 to 96 inches).
  • The washer drains strongly; if not, inspect the washer drain pump WP3363394 for blockage or wear.

Why it matters

Low flow can leave detergent undissolved, reduce cleaning performance, and extend cycle time. Fixing the restriction early also helps protect the inlet valve and prevents repeat fill errors.

You can order model-correct replacement parts for Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 from the parts list for this washer, or search by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

A “hard reset” on a Whirlpool Duet-style washer is usually just a control reset: we power the washer fully off, drain any stored charge, then restore power and reselect a cycle. On your Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 (top-load), the most reliable reset is a power reset.

Quick reset steps (works for most Whirlpool washers)

  • Turn the washer OFF.
  • Unplug the power cord (or switch the breaker OFF).
  • Wait 1 minute.
  • Plug back in (or turn breaker ON).
  • Open and close the lid once, then select a cycle and press Start.

If you meant the “button sequence” reset

Some Whirlpool Duet control boards use a key sequence (often Wash Temp, Spin, Soil pressed in order, repeated 3 times) to clear a stuck state. If your control panel has those exact buttons, try:

  • Press Wash Temp, Spin, Soil (in that order)
  • Repeat the same sequence 3 times within about 8 seconds
  • Watch for the console lights to change, then reselect a cycle

When a reset will not fix the problem

If the washer still will not start, fill, drain, or spin after resetting, we check the common “no-run” and “no-spin” items for the LSR7333PQ0:

What the symptoms usually point to

Symptom Most common cause on direct-drive top-load washers What to check next
Won’t start Lid switch not closing Lid strike alignment, lid switch continuity
Fills but won’t agitate Motor coupling or agitator dogs Coupling condition, agitator movement
Won’t drain or spin Drain pump clog/failure or lid switch Pump inlet, hose, lid switch

Why it matters

Resetting clears a control “glitch,” but it does not correct a failed safety switch, a broken drive coupling, or a blocked drain path. Matching the reset method to your washer style (Duet front-load vs. LSR7333PQ0 top-load) saves time and prevents repeat shutdowns.

You can order replacement parts for your Whirlpool LSR7333PQ0 from the parts list for this model, or search by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

Whirlpool model LSR7333PQ0 is a standard-capacity, direct-drive top load washer; this model’s exact tub capacity in cubic feet is not a parts-based specification. For practical loading, treat it like a traditional (non-HE) top loader and avoid filling to the rim.

What you can rely on for LSR7333PQ0

Capacity is the usable volume of the wash basket; it affects how well clothes roll over, rinse, and spin out. On classic Whirlpool top load designs like LSR7333PQ0, performance depends more on proper loading and water level selection than chasing a single cu. ft. number.

Practical load-size guidelines (works for this washer)

  • Load items loosely; do not pack or compress.
  • Keep the top of the load below the basket’s upper edge.
  • Choose a higher water level for bulky loads so items can circulate.
  • Wash heavy, absorbent items (blankets, jackets) in smaller loads.
  • If the washer bangs or won’t spin smoothly, redistribute and reduce the load.

Parts that affect “usable capacity” and wash action

If you’re asking about capacity because the washer isn’t moving water or clothes correctly, these model-matched parts are commonly involved:

Symptom that feels like “too small” or poor turnover What to check Model-matched part
Weak agitation, clothes stay in a lump Agitator dogs worn Agitator dog 80040
Won’t drain well, water left in tub Drain pump restriction or failure Washer drain pump WP3363394
Won’t spin unless lid is pressed Lid switch not closing Washer lid switch assembly WP8318084

Why it matters

Overloading a standard top load washer reduces cleaning, increases out-of-balance spinning, and accelerates wear on the drive system. Loading correctly protects the basket, clutch, and gear case and keeps cycles consistent.

If you’re shopping for replacement parts for LSR7333PQ0, use the parts list for this model or search by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your washers

Choose a symptom to see related washer repairs.

Main causes: clogged drain hose, house drain clogged, bad drain pump, water-level pressure switch failure, bad control b…

Main causes: broken lid switch or lid lock, bad pressure switch, broken shifter assembly, faulty control system…

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Main causes: leaky water inlet valve, faulty water-level pressure switch, bad electronic control board…

Main causes: bad lid switch or door lock, bad timer or electronic control board, wiring failure, bad water inlet valve a…

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