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Kenmore 11087870100 dryer

Kenmore 11087870100 dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 11087870100 dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drum Belt, 92-1/4-inch for Kenmore 11087870100 - Part 341241

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Belt

    Part #660997

    Replaced by #341241

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drum Support Roller Kit for Kenmore 11087870100 - Part 349241T

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Support

    Part #349241

    Replaced by #349241T

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Valve Coil Kit for Kenmore 11087870100 - Part 279834

    Dryer Valve Coil Kit

    Part #694540

    Replaced by #279834

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Valve Coil Kit for Kenmore 11087870100 - Part 279834

    Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit

    Part #694539

    Replaced by #279834

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Blower Wheel for Kenmore 11087870100 - Part WP694089

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Dryer Blower Wheel

    Part #695499

    Replaced by #WP694089

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    This part replaces 695499. Substitute parts can look different from the original.
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  • Whirlpool Dryer Burner Igniter Kit for Kenmore 11087870100 - Part 279311

    Dryer Igniter

    Part #660991

    Replaced by #279311

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Idler Pulley for Kenmore 11087870100 - Part WP691366

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Dryer Idler Pulley

    Part #691366

    Replaced by #WP691366

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  • Dryer Door Latch Kit for Kenmore 11087870100 - Part 279570

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Strike

    Part #696144

    Replaced by #279570

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    This part replaces 696144. Substitute parts can look different from the original.
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  • Dryer Door Latch Kit for Kenmore 11087870100 - Part 279570

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Catch

    Part #690081

    Replaced by #279570

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  • Dryer Thermal Fuse for Kenmore 11087870100 - Part WP3392519

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Fuse

    Part #694511

    Replaced by #WP3392519

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Kenmore Dryer 11087870100 FAQs

Your Kenmore dryer’s model number is printed on the appliance’s ID label; once you find it, match it exactly (letters and numbers) to look up the correct parts and diagrams. For this parts page, the model is Kenmore 11087870100.

Where to find the model number label

On most Kenmore dryers, we see the model/serial label in one of these spots:

  • Inside the dryer door opening (on the door frame or cabinet front)
  • On the back panel of the dryer cabinet
  • Behind the lint screen area (check the housing area around the lint screen)
  • On the side panel near the front edge (less common)

How to read the model number (and why it matters)

Kenmore model numbers are usually a long string of digits. The first three digits often indicate the manufacturing source (for example, many 110-prefix Kenmore dryers are Whirlpool-built), which helps ensure the right part fit.

Quick check table

What you see on the label What it means for parts lookup
Exact model number (example: 11087870100) Use it to match parts lists and diagrams exactly
Extra characters or spaces Ignore spaces; keep the digits/letters in the same order
Serial number Useful for production date; not a substitute for the model number

Common mistakes that cause wrong parts

  • Using only the first 3 digits (example: using “110” instead of 11087870100)
  • Mixing up similar digits (0 vs O, 1 vs I)
  • Ordering by a part number from a different Kenmore series
  • Assuming “Kenmore” alone is enough (it is not)

If you are replacing a common wear item

Once you confirm your model number, match the part to that model. For example, a frequent replacement on Kenmore 11087870100 is the drum belt: belt 341241.

Why it matters

Using the exact model number prevents fit issues and repeat repairs; Kenmore dryers can look identical across series but use different belts, switches, and gas ignition parts.

Last updated: February 2026

To remove the front panel on a Kenmore dryer model 11087870100, we unplug the dryer, open the cabinet (top or lower access area, depending on the build), remove the front-panel mounting screws, then lift the panel up and off while supporting the drum and disconnecting any door-switch wiring.

Before you start (safety and prep)

  • Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet.
  • If it is a gas dryer, shut off the gas supply valve.
  • Pull the dryer forward so you can reach the back and sides.
  • Have a small container ready for screws.
  • Take a quick photo of wire connections before disconnecting anything.

Front panel removal steps (common Kenmore 110-style cabinet)

  1. Remove the lint screen (if it pulls out from the top).
  2. Release the top:
  • Remove screws in the lint-screen housing (if present), or
  • Use a putty knife to release spring clips near the front corners, then lift the top.
  1. Disconnect the door switch: locate the door-switch connector and unplug it.
  2. Remove the front panel screws:
  • Look for screws at the inside top corners of the front panel, and/or
  • Screws along the lower edge (some versions use a lower toe panel first).
  1. Lift the front panel off: pull the top of the panel slightly forward, then lift up to unhook it from the bottom clips.
  2. Support the drum if the front panel also supports the drum front; avoid letting the drum drop.

If you need drum access after the panel is off

If you are going in for a squeal, thump, or no-tumble issue, the next common parts to inspect are the belt and idler pulley, such as the belt 341241 and the dryer idler pulley WP691366.

What you will typically need

Item Why it helps
Putty knife Releases top spring clips
1/4-in nut driver or Phillips screwdriver Removes cabinet screws
Work gloves Protects hands from sharp edges
Phone/camera Records wire routing and screw locations

Why it matters

Removing the front panel correctly prevents cabinet damage, protects the door-switch wiring, and keeps the drum aligned. That makes belt, motor, blower wheel, and lint-chute repairs faster and helps the dryer run quietly afterward.

Last updated: February 2026

On Kenmore model 11087870100, a blown thermal fuse typically shows up as a dryer that will not start (most common) or runs but won’t heat (on some designs). The sure way to know is to unplug the dryer and test the fuse for continuity with a multimeter; no continuity means the fuse is blown.

Quick symptoms checklist

  • Dryer won’t start, even though the outlet has power
  • Motor hums briefly then stops (some cases)
  • Dryer runs but has no heat (less common, depends on wiring)
  • Problem started after long dry times or restricted airflow
  • Lint screen area feels unusually hot

How to test the thermal fuse (continuity test)

  1. Unplug the dryer (and shut off gas if you have a gas model).
  2. Access the blower housing or exhaust duct area where the thermal fuse is commonly mounted.
  3. Remove at least one wire from the fuse terminal.
  4. Set your multimeter to continuity or ohms.
  5. Touch probes to the fuse terminals.
  • Good fuse: continuity (beep) or near 0 ohms
  • Blown fuse: no beep or OL/infinite resistance

What to do if the fuse is blown

A thermal fuse usually blows because the dryer overheated from poor airflow. Fix the airflow issue before running the dryer again.

Common airflow fixes:

Why it matters

The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device. If you replace it without correcting venting or lint buildup, the dryer can overheat again and blow the new fuse, causing another no-start or no-heat failure.

Symptom to likely cause (fast guide)

What you see Most likely issue What to check first
Won’t start Blown thermal fuse, door switch, motor circuit Thermal fuse continuity, door switch
Runs but no heat Heating circuit issue, airflow restriction Venting, burner/heat components

For broader Kenmore dryer diagnostics, use Kenmore 110 series electronic control model dryer error codes.

Last updated: February 2026

A loud noise in your Kenmore dryer model 11087870100 almost always comes from a worn moving part: the drum drive belt, idler pulley, blower wheel, or drum bearing surfaces. We focus first on the sound type (squeal, thump, rumble, scraping) because it points to the most likely part to inspect and replace.

Match the noise to the most likely cause

Quick checks we recommend before ordering parts

  1. Unplug the dryer (and shut off gas if it is a gas model) before opening any panels.
  2. Spin the drum by hand; listen for squeaks, grinding, or a repeating thump.
  3. Check the lint screen and chute area for coins, buttons, or lint buildup.
  4. Look for belt dust (black rubber debris) near the motor or idler area.
  5. Inspect the blower wheel for wobble, cracks, or anything rubbing the housing.

Common noisy-part symptoms (at a glance)

Noise you hear Most common source What you typically find
Squeal Idler pulley Pulley wobbles, squeaks, or feels rough
Thump Drum belt Frayed belt, glazed spots, stretched belt
Rattle Blower wheel Debris inside, wheel loose on shaft
Scrape/rumble Front bearing area Worn bearing surface or scoring

Why it matters

A noisy dryer often keeps running for a while, but the underlying wear can lead to a broken belt, overheating from restricted airflow, or motor strain. Fixing the noise early helps protect the drive motor and keeps drying times normal.

For additional DIY guidance on dryer components and what they do, use what are the main parts of a clothes dryer.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your dryers

Choose a symptom to see related dryer repairs.

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Main causes: bad timer or electronic control board, door switch failure…

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