Kenmore 79573952300 top-mount refrigerator Parts

On a Kenmore 79573952300 top-mount refrigerator, the top compartment is the freezer. It’s the section designed to keep foods frozen, and it also supplies cold air that circulates down into the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment.

What the freezer does in this model

In a top-mount design, the freezer is more than storage for frozen food; it’s also the starting point for airflow that cools the refrigerator section.

• Cold air enters through the bottom of the freezer section and moves upward
• Most air recirculates through freezer vents and under the freezer floor
• Some cold air flows into the refrigerator section through the top vent
• Blocking vents with packages can cause warm temperatures and moisture buildup
• Temperature controls regulate freezer temperature and overall cooling performance

Quick terminology guide

Term you might hear	What it usually means	Where it is
Freezer compartment	Frozen-food section	Top (on this model type)
Fresh food compartment	Main refrigerator section	Bottom
Air vents	Openings that move cold air	Between and within compartments

Why it matters

If the freezer vents are blocked or the freezer door is left open, airflow drops and the refrigerator section can warm up or develop condensation. Keeping the freezer organized and vents clear helps both compartments hold steady temperatures.

Helpful reference

For the exact feature layout and vent locations on your specific configuration, use the owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

Your Kenmore refrigerator’s model number is printed on the identification label inside the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment. For Kenmore model 79573952300, the manual specifies the label is on the right-hand side of the refrigerator compartment; once you have that number, you can match parts and diagrams correctly.

Where to look for the model and serial label

Check these common spots first (starting with the model-specific location):

• Right-hand side wall inside the refrigerator compartment (most common for this model)
• Side wall near the crisper drawers
• Ceiling area inside the fresh food section
• Behind or near the base grille (kick plate) area
• On the back exterior panel (less common)

For the exact location and how it’s referenced in the documentation, use the owner's manual.

What to write down (and why)

Record both numbers exactly as shown on the label:

• Model number (example: 79573952300)
• Serial number
• Date of purchase (if available)

Why it matters

Kenmore refrigerators can look similar across different series. The correct model number ensures you get the right Kenmore parts (like a door bin, gasket, or water inlet valve) and the correct troubleshooting steps.

Quick reference: model vs. serial

Item	What it tells us	Used for
Model number	The exact design and parts list	Ordering correct replacement parts
Serial number	The unit’s unique production ID	Service history and unit identification

If the label is hard to read

Try these practical fixes:

• Wipe the label gently with a damp cloth and dry it
• Use your phone camera and zoom in for clarity
• Take a photo with flash off to reduce glare
• Copy the model number character-for-character (including any dashes)

Last updated: February 2026

A Kenmore 79573952300 top-mount refrigerator typically lasts 10 to 15 years. We see units reach the higher end when the condenser area stays clean, door gaskets seal tightly, and airflow is not blocked; sealed-system failures (compressor or refrigerant leaks) are the most expensive repairs.

Typical lifespan and what affects it

Most refrigerator life is driven by heat management, door sealing, and how hard the compressor has to run.

• Condenser cleanliness: dust buildup raises temperatures and run time
• Door gasket condition: air leaks cause longer run cycles and frost issues
• Room temperature: hotter rooms make the compressor run more often
• Door openings and warm food loads: normal causes of longer run time
• Defrost drainage: clogs can lead to ice buildup and water leaks

Quick “repair vs. replace” guideline

Use this as a practical decision tool when a major part fails.

Refrigerator age	Common approach	Why
0 to 5 years	Repair	Value is high; many failures are straightforward
6 to 10 years	Case-by-case	Depends on part cost and overall condition
11 to 15 years	Lean replace if major failure	Higher chance of additional wear items failing
16+ years	Replace	Efficiency and reliability usually drop

Maintenance that extends life (high impact)

These steps reduce compressor run time and temperature swings.

• Vacuum dust from the condenser area regularly
• Keep vents inside the refrigerator and freezer clear for proper air circulation
• Confirm doors close fully and the gasket grips paper all the way around
• Set stable temperatures (avoid frequent control changes)
• Clear defrost drain issues early; a clogged drain can cause puddles and icing

Why it matters

Longer compressor run time is normal in warm rooms or after loading groceries, but chronic long run times increase wear on the sealed refrigeration system. The troubleshooting section in the 79573952300 owner's manual also explains conditions that make the compressor run more often.

Last updated: February 2026

On a Kenmore 79573952300 top-mount refrigerator, a “bad compressor” usually shows up as poor or no cooling even though the unit has power, along with repeated clicking (start attempts) or unusual loud humming. Before condemning the compressor, we check airflow, condenser cleanliness, and the start relay because those issues can mimic compressor failure.

Quick signs that point to a compressor or start problem

• Repeated clicking every few minutes with little or no cooling (overload protector cycling)
• Warm refrigerator and freezer while interior lights work and fans may still run
• Compressor is very hot to the touch and shuts off quickly after trying to start
• Loud buzzing or humming followed by a click and shutdown
• Breaker trips or the unit goes dead shortly after the compressor tries to start

Rule out the common look-alikes first

The compressor can run longer than you expect on modern refrigerators; the owner's manual notes that at normal room temperatures the compressor may run about 40% to 80% of the time, and even more in warm conditions.

Check these items before focusing on the sealed system:

• Controls and power: make sure the refrigerator control is not set to OFF
• Condenser coils: dirty coils make the compressor work harder; clean them
• Door sealing: doors not closing fully can cause nonstop running and warm temps
• Airflow: listen for the evaporator fan moving air in the compartments

What you can test safely (and what to leave to a pro)

Check	What you’re looking for	What it suggests
Listen at the back	Click, then silence; repeats	Start device/relay or compressor not starting
Feel for vibration	No vibration when it “should” be running	Compressor not running
Coil cleaning	Heavy dust buildup	Overheating and poor cooling

For electrical tests (winding resistance, amp draw, start components), unplug the refrigerator and use proper meters and procedures; sealed-system and compressor diagnosis is typically technician-level work.

Parts that commonly get replaced with “compressor won’t start” symptoms

A failed start device can cause clicking and no-start symptoms that look like a bad compressor. If your symptoms match, the refrigerator compressor start relay 6749c-0014e is a common suspect on this model family.

Why it matters

Replacing a start relay is straightforward compared with sealed-system work. Doing the quick checks first helps you avoid replacing major components when the real issue is airflow, dirty coils, or a failed start device.

Last updated: February 2026

Common problems with the Kenmore 79573952300 top-mount refrigerator include warm temperatures from dirty condenser coils or blocked air vents, doors not sealing or closing fully, ice maker slow or poor-tasting ice, water leaks (often tied to the defrost drain), and increased fan or compressor noise. Use the owner's manual troubleshooting tables to match symptoms to the right fix.

Most common symptoms and what usually causes them

• Refrigerator or freezer too warm: frequent door openings, large food loads, controls set too warm, vents blocked by items
• Ice maker slow or not making ice: freezer not cold enough yet (allow up to 24 hours after hookup), door held open, heavy ice usage
• Water on the floor or puddles: defrost drain restriction or drain tube issue; humidity can also slow evaporation in the drain pan
• Doors will not close completely: unit not level, food packages blocking, bins or shelves out of position, sticky/dirty gaskets
• Bad-tasting or smelly ice: old ice, unwrapped food odors, mineral-heavy water, dirty ice bin
• Noisy operation: normal operating sounds, fan blade interference, or airflow restrictions

Quick checks we recommend first (fast, no parts)

• Confirm doors close firmly and nothing is holding them open.
• Move food away from interior air vents so cold air can circulate.
• Clean condenser coils (dirty coils reduce cooling and make the compressor work harder).
• After changing temperature controls, wait 24 hours before adjusting again.
• If the door is hard to reopen right away, wait about 5 minutes for pressure to equalize.

When a part is commonly involved

Symptom	Common area	Part on this model that may help
Water leaking or puddles	Defrost drain system	Refrigerator drain 5251JA3003D
Warm temps plus fan noise or poor airflow	Evaporator airflow	Refrigerator evaporator fan blade 5901JJ1003A
Water dispenser or ice maker not filling	Water supply/valve	Refrigerator water inlet valve 5220JA2009D
Door not sealing well	Door seal	Refrigerator gasket ADX52752651

Why it matters

Most “not cooling” and “ice maker not working” complaints trace back to airflow, door sealing, or dirty coils. Fixing those basics first prevents food spoilage, reduces compressor run time, and avoids repeat icing or leaking problems.

Last updated: February 2026