How many cubic feet is a Kenmore model 1068262580 freezer?
The exact cubic-foot capacity for Kenmore model 1068262580 depends on the specific product specification for that model. Most full-size Kenmore upright freezers are typically 18 to 21 cu. ft., and you can confirm the exact number by matching the model tag to the correct spec listing for 1068262580.
Use the model tag and the product spec information tied to that exact model number.
- Find the model tag inside the cabinet, usually along the door opening
- Confirm the model number reads 1068262580 (all digits must match)
- Use the model number to match the correct product specification and parts breakdown
- If there is a revision letter or additional code on the tag, record it because it can affect the exact configuration
These ranges help you compare sizes while you confirm the exact spec for your unit.
- Compact upright: 3 to 9 cu. ft.
- Mid-size upright: 10 to 17 cu. ft.
- Full-size upright: 18 to 21 cu. ft.
- Usable space is always less than “total capacity” because shelves, bins, and the evaporator cover take up room
| Upright freezer type | Typical total capacity |
|---|---|
| Compact | 3 to 9 cu. ft. |
| Mid-size | 10 to 17 cu. ft. |
| Full-size | 18 to 21 cu. ft. |
Capacity affects how much you can store, how you plan shelf and bin organization, and how quickly the freezer recovers temperature after door openings.
If you are losing usable space due to frost or temperature swings, a leaking door seal is a common cause; the correct replacement option to check for this model is the door gasket 2188436A.
Last updated: January 2026
Is there a reset button on a Kenmore upright freezer?
Most Kenmore upright freezers, including model 1068262580, do not have a dedicated “reset” button. A basic reset is done by power-cycling the freezer; if the control is unresponsive or temperatures are unstable afterward, the temperature control thermostat may be the next item to check.
- Unplug the freezer (or switch the circuit breaker off).
- Wait 5 minutes to let the control and compressor pressures equalize.
- Plug it back in.
- Set the temperature control to the normal mid-range setting.
- Allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize after any adjustment.
If the freezer still will not cool, runs constantly, or the control seems erratic, these are the most common causes to rule out first:
- Door not sealing (warm air leaks cause long run times and temperature swings).
- Heavy frost buildup on the evaporator area (defrost system issue).
- Dirty condenser (if your design has accessible coils) or blocked airflow around the cabinet.
- Overloading or warm food added recently (normal recovery can take many hours).
- Temperature control thermostat contacts sticking or drifting out of range.
If symptoms point to a control problem, the model-specific part to consider is:
If symptoms point to an air leak, the model-specific part to consider is:
| Symptom | Most likely area | What “reset” changes |
|---|---|---|
| Control panel unresponsive | Power/control | Reboots electronics (if present) |
| Runs constantly, warm inside | Door seal or cooling system | Usually nothing long-term |
| Temps swing up and down | Thermostat/control | May temporarily stabilize |
A power reset clears minor control glitches, but it will not correct mechanical issues like a leaking door gasket, frost blockage, or a failing thermostat. Identifying the symptom pattern helps you replace the right freezer part the first time.
Last updated: January 2026
What are the most common issues with 1068262580?
The most common issues we see with the Kenmore 1068262580 upright freezer are warm temperatures (poor freezing), heavy frost buildup, and door sealing problems that cause longer run times. Many fixes start with airflow, defrost checks, and verifying the temperature control operation.
- Freezer not cold enough: dirty condenser area, blocked vents, weak door seal, or a temperature control problem
- Heavy frost on back wall or shelves: defrost system issue or frequent warm-air leaks at the door
- Runs constantly or seems loud: warm-air leaks, dirty condenser, or the unit is trying to pull down temperature
- Water/ice around the door opening: gasket not sealing, door not closing squarely, or overpacked shelves
- Temperature swings: thermostat cycling issues or airflow restrictions
- Confirm the door closes fully and the cabinet is level.
- Check for packages blocking interior air vents.
- Look for frost patterns: a solid frost sheet often signals a defrost problem.
- Set the control colder and listen for a clear click and compressor/fan response.
- Clean dust from the condenser area (unplug first).
| Symptom | Part to consider | What it affects |
|---|---|---|
| Warm temps or temperature swings | Thermostat 4389248 | Senses temperature and cycles cooling |
| Frost and moisture at door | Door gasket 2188436A | Keeps warm air out and humidity down |
Warm-air leaks and poor airflow make an upright freezer run longer, build frost faster, and struggle to hold safe food temperatures. Addressing the door seal and temperature control early helps prevent bigger cooling-system strain.
Last updated: March 2026





