Whirlpool WRF560SEYM04 refrigerator Parts

To remove the ice maker in a Whirlpool WRF560SEYM04 bottom-mount refrigerator, we typically shut off power, remove the ice bin, unplug the ice maker wiring harness, then loosen the mounting screws so the ice maker can lift up and off the screw heads.

Before you start (safety and prep)

• Unplug the refrigerator or turn off the circuit breaker.
• Turn the ice maker off (if it has an on/off switch or shut-off arm).
• Empty the ice bin; expect loose ice and possible water in the mold.
• Protect the freezer floor with a towel to catch drips.
• Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver that fits the mounting screws.

For model-specific diagrams and access notes, use the WRF560SEYM04 manual.

Step-by-step: removing the ice maker

1. Pull out the freezer drawer enough to access the ice maker area.
2. Remove the ice bin/bucket (if installed) and set it aside.
3. Locate the ice maker wiring harness connector; depress the locking tab and unplug it.
4. Loosen (do not fully remove) the top mounting screws.
5. Lift the ice maker assembly up and off the top screw heads.
6. If there is a lower screw or bracket, remove it last and slide the ice maker out.

If you’re replacing the assembly, match the replacement to the correct part for this model: refrigerator ice maker assembly 4317943.

What you’ll see (common fasteners and connections)

Item	What it does	What to do
Mounting screws	Hold ice maker to side wall	Loosen top screws, remove lower screw if present
Wiring harness plug	Powers ice maker	Unplug by pressing the locking tab
Fill tube (rear/top)	Delivers water to mold	Do not force; clear ice buildup if stuck

Why it matters

Removing the ice maker the right way prevents cracked plastic mounts, damaged wiring connectors, and leaks at the fill tube. It also makes it easier to diagnose “no ice” problems tied to the ice maker, water inlet valve, or freezer temperature.

Last updated: January 2026

Ice forming on the bottom of the freezer in your Whirlpool WRF560SEYM04 is most often caused by a defrost drain problem: meltwater from the defrost cycle cannot flow to the drain pan, so it refreezes on the freezer floor. Use the WRF560SEYM04 manual for access and cleaning guidance.

What usually causes ice on the freezer floor

In a bottom-mount refrigerator like the WRF560SEYM04, these are the most common causes:

• Defrost drain hole or drain tube is clogged with ice, food particles, or sludge
• Drain funnel/grommet is restricted, so water backs up and freezes
• Door not sealing well, letting humid air in that creates excess frost and meltwater
• Freezer drawer left slightly open or blocked by packages
• Heavy frost buildup on the evaporator cover that overwhelms normal drainage

Quick checks and safe fixes you can try

1. Check the door seal and closure: make sure the freezer drawer closes fully and nothing is pinched in the gasket.
2. Clear the drain area (basic): after unplugging the refrigerator, remove the freezer bin and look for an ice sheet on the floor. Carefully melt ice with a hair dryer on low, keeping heat moving.
3. Flush the drain: once the drain opening is visible, flush with hot water using a turkey baster to confirm it flows freely.

If the drain keeps freezing back up, the drain funnel may be restricted or deformed and may need replacement, such as the refrigerator drain tube W11190084.

Symptoms and what they point to

What you notice	Most likely cause	What to do next
Solid ice sheet on freezer floor	Clogged/iced defrost drain	Defrost and flush drain
Water dripping then freezing near back wall	Drain backing up at funnel/tube	Inspect drain funnel/tube
Frost on packages and walls	Air leak at gasket or drawer not closing	Check gasket, rails, obstructions

Why it matters

When defrost water cannot drain, it refreezes and can eventually block airflow, reduce cooling performance, and cause recurring leaks or ice buildup. Fixing the drain path early helps protect food temperatures and prevents repeat icing.

Last updated: January 2026

To reset the bottom-freezer section on your Whirlpool WRF560SEYM04 bottom-mount refrigerator, we recommend a simple power reset: shut the unit off if your controls allow, disconnect power for a few minutes, then restore power and re-set your temperature settings. See the exact control steps in the WRF560SEYM04 user manual.

Quick reset steps (power reset)

• Unplug the refrigerator, or switch off the circuit breaker.
• Wait 2 to 5 minutes so the electronic controls fully power down.
• Restore power.
• Set the refrigerator and freezer temperatures back to your preferred settings.
• Allow up to 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize.

If the controls still do not respond

A reset will not fix a failed control or a power supply problem. Check these basics first:

• Confirm the outlet has power (test with a lamp).
• Check the home breaker or GFCI (if used).
• Make sure doors are fully closed; some functions can be limited with doors open.
• Listen for normal start-up sounds (fan/compressor) after power is restored.

When a part may be involved

If the refrigerator repeatedly loses cooling or will not start after a reset, these model-compatible parts are commonly involved:

Symptom after reset	What it can indicate	Model-compatible part example
Display works but cooling is erratic	Control/temperature management issue	Refrigerator electronic control board W11035836
Clicking, hard starting, or no compressor start	Start components issue	Refrigerator start device WPW10448874
No ice production after reset (and freezer is cold)	Ice maker issue	Refrigerator ice maker assembly 4317943

Why it matters

A power reset clears minor control glitches after a power flicker or setting change. If the problem returns quickly, it usually points to an underlying issue (power, controls, or starting components) rather than a one-time glitch.

Last updated: January 2026

Water leaking from the bottom of your Whirlpool WRF560SEYM04 is most often caused by a clogged or frozen defrost drain that overflows and runs down to the floor. Another common source is a small leak in the ice maker water supply line or the inlet valve.

Quick checks we recommend

• Look for ice or standing water on the freezer floor (often a defrost drain issue).
• Check whether the puddle appears after the ice maker fills (often a water system issue).
• Inspect the rear lower area for drips at tubing connections.
• Confirm doors close fully; warm air can increase frost and refreeze the drain.

Most common cause: defrost drain clogged or frozen

On WRF560SEYM04, defrost meltwater should flow through the drain opening and down to the drain pan. If the drain is blocked by ice or debris, water backs up and escapes at the bottom.

Basic clearing steps

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Remove freezer items and the rear panel as needed.
• Melt ice at the drain area with warm water.
• Flush until water runs freely to the drain pan.

If the drain end is damaged or keeps clogging, a common repair is replacing the drain funnel: refrigerator drain tube W11190084.

If the leak is from the water system

If you see water near the back wall or the leak happens around ice maker fill cycles, focus on the valve and fittings.

• Reseat quick-connect fittings (push in fully).
• Check plastic tubing for cracks, kinks, or rub-through.
• Look for dripping at the valve body or outlet ports.

For WRF560SEYM04, the compatible inlet valve listed is: refrigerator inlet valve WPW10238100.

Symptom-to-cause guide

What you notice	Likely cause	Where to check
Ice sheet or water on freezer floor	Defrost drain frozen/clogged	Freezer drain area
Water near back of cabinet	Tubing/valve leak	Rear lower valve and lines
Leak after humid door openings	Drain refreezing from frost	Door seals, drain area

Why it matters

Stopping the leak quickly helps prevent floor damage and reduces recurring ice buildup that can restrict airflow and affect cooling performance.

For model-specific panel access and safety steps, use the WRF560SEYM04 manual.

Last updated: January 2026