Whirlpool GR673LXSS1 electric freestanding range Parts

An electric cooktop on a Whirlpool GR673LXSS1 can use a noticeable amount of electricity, but the real cost depends on burner size, heat setting, and how long you cook. Most electric surface elements draw roughly 1,000 to 3,000 watts while heating, and the oven typically draws about 2,000 to 5,000 watts.

Electric ranges cycle power on and off to hold temperature, so they do not pull maximum wattage nonstop.

• Small surface element: about 1.0 to 1.5 kW
• Large surface element: about 2.0 to 3.0 kW
• Oven bake/broil: about 2.0 to 5.0 kW
• Actual energy use depends on duty cycle (how often the element is energized)

Use this to ballpark energy use for your GR673LXSS1.

• Match pan size to the element size to avoid wasted heat
• Use flat-bottom cookware for better contact on radiant elements
• Keep lids on pots to shorten boil time
• Preheat only as long as needed; avoid long “empty” preheats
• Turn the burner off a minute early and use retained heat

If a burner seems to run hot, never cycles off, or takes much longer than normal to heat, a failed element or control can increase run time (and energy use).

Common parts involved on this model include:

• Range radiant surface element, 6-in W10823711
• Range surface element control switch WP9758060

Electricity cost is driven more by total cooking time and heat level than by the fact that the range is electric. A properly working element and control switch help the cooktop cycle correctly, which keeps cooking consistent and avoids unnecessary run time.

Last updated: February 2026

A Whirlpool electric range like model GR673LXSS1 typically lasts 10 to 15 years. Consistent cleaning, avoiding overheating, and replacing wear items (like sensors, elements, and door seals) on time helps you reach the full lifespan.

Most electric freestanding ranges land in this range because the heating system and controls see high heat cycles over many years.

Key factors that extend life:

• Keep the oven cavity and door seal clean so heat stays inside
• Avoid running self-clean too often (high heat stresses components)
• Do not slam the oven door; it can damage hinges, glass, and alignment
• Fix uneven cooking early (often a sensor or element issue)
• Keep surface elements and switches from overheating (use correct pan size)

If the range is otherwise in good shape, replacing a failed part is often the difference between a quick repair and replacing the appliance.

Common examples for GR673LXSS1:

• Oven sensor WPW10181986 (temperature regulation and baking accuracy)
• Range radiant surface element, 6-in W10823711 (burner not heating or heating unevenly)
• Door gasket W11542153 (heat leaks, longer cook times, poor temperature stability)

Use this as a practical rule of thumb.

Knowing the expected lifespan helps you plan: if your GR673LXSS1 is near 15 years old, a major control or heating repair may not be the best long-term investment, but a targeted fix (sensor, element, gasket) can restore safe, consistent cooking.

Last updated: February 2026

To hard reset a Whirlpool oven on model GR673LXSS1, we power-cycle the range: turn the breaker OFF for 1 to 5 minutes, then turn it ON and set the clock. This clears many control glitches without disassembling anything.

• Turn OFF the range circuit breaker (or unplug the cord if accessible).
• Wait at least 60 seconds (up to 5 minutes for a deeper reset).
• Restore power.
• Set the clock and test Bake for 5 to 10 minutes.
• If an error code returns, note it before resetting again.

A reset will not fix a failed heating or sensing part. On GR673LXSS1, these checks are the most useful:

• If the oven temperature is wildly off or you get temperature-sensor related errors, test or replace the oven sensor WPW10181986.
• If the oven light is out, replace the light bulb 8009 and inspect the light lens WP3196068 for heat damage.
• If the door will not lock or unlock (often tied to self-clean issues), inspect the door latch WPW10107820.

Power-cycling clears the electronic control’s temporary memory. If the problem comes back immediately, it usually points to a real failure (sensor, latch, wiring, or a control issue) rather than a one-time glitch.

Last updated: February 2026