Kenmore Elite 79571052013 refrigerator Parts

Kenmore Elite refrigerator model 79571052013 is a bottom-freezer style unit; most models in this 33-inch-wide class measure about 33 inches wide, 31 to 34 inches deep (depth varies with handles), and 67 to 70 inches high. For the exact dimensions for your configuration, use the 79571052013 owner's manual.

How to get the exact dimensions (fast)

Use the model’s documentation and measure your specific installation so you account for handles, door swing, and leveling.

• Check the “Refrigerator installation” and “Leveling and door alignment” sections in the 79571052013 owner's manual.
• Measure width at the widest point (often the doors, not the cabinet).
• Measure depth two ways: cabinet-only and to the front of the handles.
• Measure height from floor to the top hinge cover area.
• Confirm the refrigerator is level; leveling feet can change height slightly.

Typical size ranges you can plan around

These are practical planning numbers for a Kenmore bottom-freezer refrigerator in this style.

Measurement	Typical planning range	What changes it most
Width	~33 in.	Door design, trim
Depth	~31 to 34 in.	Handles, door curvature
Height	~67 to 70 in.	Leveling feet, hinge cover

Why it matters

Correct sizing prevents delivery and install problems such as doors not clearing cabinets, drawers not opening fully, or the unit not fitting through doorways. It also helps you leave proper airflow space so the refrigerator cools efficiently.

Last updated: January 2026

On Kenmore Elite refrigerator model 79571052013, DH commonly points to a defrost heating problem (the refrigerator is not warming the evaporator enough during the defrost cycle). When this happens, frost can build up and airflow drops, so temperatures rise even though the unit seems to be running.

What you’ll usually notice when DH shows up

• Refrigerator section warming up while the freezer still feels cold
• Frost or ice buildup on the rear freezer panel
• Weak airflow from vents (fan noise may change)
• Ice maker performance dropping or stopping
• Water leaking or puddling after a defrost attempt

Quick checks you can do safely

Before any hands-on checks, unplug the refrigerator.

• Confirm doors are closing fully and gaskets are sealing
• Look for heavy frost on the back wall inside the freezer
• Power-cycle the refrigerator (unplug 5 minutes, then plug back in)
• Check for blocked vents from overpacked food
• Review the troubleshooting section in the 79571052013 owner's manual

What typically causes a DH (defrost heat) issue

A DH condition is usually tied to one of these areas in the defrost circuit:

Likely cause	What it affects	Common symptom
Defrost heater circuit problem	No heat during defrost	Heavy frost, warm fridge
Defrost sensor/thermistor issue	Wrong temperature feedback	Intermittent DH
Control board/defrost control issue	Defrost not initiated or not powered	Repeating DH
Airflow restriction	Cooling can’t recover	Warm temps, long run time

Parts that may be involved (when symptoms match)

If you’re also seeing dispenser or ice-related symptoms, these model-matched parts can be relevant:

• Ice maker assembly (AEQ73110203) - refrigerator ice making component by lg AEQ73110203 (ice production issues after frost buildup)
• Refrigerator condenser fan motor assembly EAU61723501 (poor heat removal can worsen temperature complaints)

Why it matters

Defrost heat problems let frost build up on the evaporator, which blocks airflow. That makes the refrigerator work longer, temperatures drift upward, and food can spoil faster even though the compressor is running.

Last updated: January 2026

Common problems on the Kenmore Elite 79571052013 bottom-mount refrigerator include warm temperatures (often airflow or condenser-coil related), ice maker or dispenser issues, water leaks, and lights not working. Many fixes start with cleaning, checking door closure, and following the troubleshooting steps in the 79571052013 owner's manual.

Most common symptoms and what usually causes them

• Not cooling or weak cooling: dirty condenser coils, blocked vents, evaporator fan issues, or a door not sealing well
• Compressor runs a lot: frequent door openings, warm room temperature, or heavy loading (the manual notes modern units can run 40% to 80% of the time at normal room temps)
• Ice maker not making ice: ice bin uneven, ice compartment door not closed tightly, or the ice maker switched off too long
• Water dispenser slow or no water: clogged filter, kinked water line, or inlet valve problems
• Water puddles/leaks: clogged/iced drain system or loose water tubing connections
• Lights do not work: loose bulb, burned-out bulb, or power supply issue

Quick checks we recommend before replacing parts

1. Confirm doors close tightly and nothing is holding them open.
2. Clean the condenser coils (dust buildup is a top cause of poor cooling).
3. Level the refrigerator if you hear vibration or rattling.
4. Check the ice bin and ice compartment door; uneven ice can stop production and a door left ajar can cause freezing in the fresh-food section.
5. If lights are out, reseat or replace the bulb with the same wattage, size, and shape (unplug first).

Parts that commonly relate to these problems

Symptom	Part that often relates	Example for this model
Water tastes bad or flow is weak	Water filter	Genuine Kenmore refrigerator water filter 9690 AGF80300801
No water to dispenser/ice maker	Water inlet valve	Lg refrigerator water inlet valve AJU72992601
Ice maker not producing	Ice maker assembly	Ice maker assembly (AEQ73110203) - refrigerator ice making component by lg AEQ73110203
Lights not responding to door	Door switch	Refrigerator door switch 6600JB1010A

Why it matters

Catching airflow, door-seal, and water-supply issues early helps protect food temperatures, reduces compressor run time, and prevents leaks that can damage flooring.

Last updated: January 2026

On Kenmore Elite bottom-mount model 79571052013, the damper control is in the fresh-food (refrigerator) section at the air inlet where freezer air is metered into the refrigerator. You access it from inside the refrigerator compartment by removing the interior air duct or diffuser cover shown in the 79571052013 owner’s manual.

How to locate it in a bottom-mount design

On this style of Kenmore Elite refrigerator, the damper is not in the freezer door area; it sits behind the refrigerator-side air outlet assembly.

• Open the refrigerator doors and look along the upper back wall area for the air outlet grille or diffuser
• Listen for clicking or buzzing near that outlet when the compressor is running
• Check for frost around the outlet cover (a common clue the damper is sticking)
• Make sure food packages are not pushed against the air inlet or return vents
• If the noise changes when you open the refrigerator door, the damper is cycling and you are close to it

Why the damper can get noisy

Damper noise is caused by the small motor and door cycling to maintain temperature. In a bottom-mount refrigerator, frequent cycling is common when doors are opened often.

Noise or symptom	What it usually means	What we do first
Rapid clicking or chattering	Damper door binding or gears slipping	Clear frost and check for obstructions at the diffuser
Buzzing or humming near the vent	Damper motor working hard	Verify vents are clear and temperatures are set correctly
Refrigerator too warm, freezer OK	Damper stuck closed or iced up	Inspect the air inlet area for frost buildup
Refrigerator too cold or items freezing	Damper stuck open	Confirm control settings and check damper movement

Safe checks before removing panels

• Unplug the refrigerator before removing any interior covers
• Set temperatures to the recommended 37°F (refrigerator) and 0°F (freezer), then wait 24 hours for stabilization
• Inspect door gaskets for gaps that can drive excess frost and damper noise

Why it matters

A sticking damper causes uneven temperatures, frozen produce, or warm spots in the refrigerator section. Fixing airflow issues early also reduces compressor run time and helps food stay fresh longer.

Last updated: January 2026