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Tradesman 55-6883-2 table saw

Tradesman 55-6883-2 table saw Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Tradesman 55-6883-2 table saw, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 55-6883-2 Power Tools

  • Flat Washer for Tradesman 55-6883-2 - Part 2919

    Table saw with laser line diagram

    Flat Washer

    Part #2919

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Strap for Tradesman 55-6883-2 - Part 0B9M

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    Strap

    Part #0B9M

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  • Lead Wire for Tradesman 55-6883-2 - Part 212M

    Table saw with laser line diagram

    Lead Wire

    Part #212M

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  • Bracket for Tradesman 55-6883-2 - Part 0B9S

    Table saw with laser line diagram

    Bracket

    Part #0B9S

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  • Bracket for Tradesman 55-6883-2 - Part 2C6K

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    Bracket

    Part #2C6K

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  • Reg.bolt A for Tradesman 55-6883-2 - Part 2DVB

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    Reg.bolt A

    Part #2DVB

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  • Label for Tradesman 55-6883-2 - Part 2DNN

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    Label

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  • Washer, 20-pack for Tradesman 55-6883-2 - Part 0J9H

    Table saw with laser line diagram

    Washer, 20-pack

    Part #0J9H

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Hexhd Bolt for Tradesman 55-6883-2 - Part 0JPU

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    Hexhd Bolt

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  • Power Tool Set Screw, 1 X 1.5 X 12-mm, 20-pack for Tradesman 55-6883-2 - Part 0JXL

    Table saw with laser line diagram

    Power Tool Set Screw, 1 X 1.5 X 12-mm, 20-pack

    Part #0JXL

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Tradesman Table Saw 55-6883-2 FAQs

The most common mistakes on a Tradesman 55-6883-2 table saw are skipping basic safety checks, using the wrong guiding tool for the cut, and making adjustments with the saw plugged in. These errors increase kickback risk and lead to inaccurate cuts; our 55-6883-2 owner's manual lists the key rules to follow every time.

Common mistakes we see most often

  • Not wearing safety glasses and appropriate PPE
  • Plugging in the saw before reading and following the safety rules
  • Cutting freehand instead of using the rip fence (ripping) or miter gauge (crosscutting)
  • Using the rip fence and miter gauge at the same time
  • Running the saw with the blade guard and splitter not installed or not working properly
  • Setting the blade too high above the workpiece (a common target is about 1/8 inch above the material for ripping)
  • Feeding warped stock or stock without a straight edge against the fence

Quick “before you cut” checklist (from the manual’s safety routine)

Verify these items before each use:

  • Blade is tight
  • Bevel angle locking handle is locked
  • Rip fence is tight and parallel to the miter gauge groove and blade (for ripping)
  • Miter gauge knob is tight (for crosscutting)
  • Blade guard and splitter are in place and working properly
  • Safety glasses are being worn

Ripping vs. crosscutting: use the right guide

Cut type What it means What to use Common mistake
Ripping Cutting along the length (with the grain) Rip fence Freehand ripping or fence not parallel
Crosscutting Cutting across the width (across the grain) Miter gauge Using rip fence and miter gauge together

Why it matters

Most “mistakes” are really setup problems. A loose bevel lock, misaligned fence, missing splitter, or freehand cut can cause binding and kickback. Good setup also improves accuracy for 45° and 90° cuts.

Helpful how-to and troubleshooting resources

For replacement parts and diagrams for your Tradesman 55-6883-2, start with the parts list for this model; you can also search by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

On the Tradesman table saw model 55-6883-2, the main parts include the tabletop and insert, rip fence and mitre gauge for guiding cuts, the blade and blade guard system, and the controls and adjustment mechanisms (blade elevation and bevel). For diagrams and names, use the 55-6883-2 owner's manual.

Core parts you will see on this model

  • Tabletop: the flat work surface that supports the material
  • Table insert (throat plate): the removable insert around the blade opening
  • Blade: the cutting tool mounted on the arbor
  • Rip fence (cam-locking rip fence): guides straight rip cuts parallel to the blade
  • Mitre gauge: guides crosscuts and angled cuts in the table groove
  • Blade elevation handwheel: raises and lowers the blade height
  • Blade bevel locking knob and bevel angle pointer: sets and locks the blade tilt angle

Safety and control components (important parts, not accessories)

These parts directly affect safe operation and cut quality:

  • Blade guard: covers the blade to reduce contact risk
  • Splitter and splitter bracket: helps keep the kerf open to reduce binding and kickback
  • ON/OFF paddle switch with safety key: allows quick shutoff and helps prevent unintended starts
  • Overload reset switch: restores power after an overload trip

Quick “what it does” table

Part What it does When you use it
Rip fence Keeps the workpiece straight for ripping Cutting boards to width
Mitre gauge Guides crosscuts and mitre cuts Cutting to length, angles
Blade elevation handwheel Sets blade height Before every cut
Bevel lock and pointer Sets blade tilt Bevels, mitres
Blade guard and splitter Helps reduce injury and kickback risk For most through-cuts

Why it matters

Knowing the correct part names helps you set up accurate ripping and crosscutting, troubleshoot issues like bad cuts or binding, and follow safe-use checks (tight blade, locked bevel, fence parallel, guard and splitter installed).

If you need help diagnosing cut problems, we recommend table saw bad cuts. For parts lookup by model number, use the model parts list first, or search by model at Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

No. Table saw miter gauges are not universal; they must match your saw’s miter gauge groove (slot) size and the way the bar slides and locks. For your Tradesman 55-6883-2, confirm the correct groove use and safe setup details in the 55-6883-2 owner's manual before buying a replacement.

What to check for compatibility

A miter gauge works correctly only when it slides smoothly with minimal side-to-side play and holds accurate angles.

Check these items:

  • Miter slot width and depth (many saws use 3/4 inch by 3/8 inch, but not all)
  • Slot style (standard slot vs. T-slot)
  • Bar adjustability (set screws or expansion discs to remove play)
  • Locking knob strength (must tighten securely)
  • Clearance with the blade guard and splitter during crosscuts

Quick fit check (Tradesman 55-6883-2)

With the saw unplugged:

  • Slide your current gauge in the groove; note wobble, binding, or rough spots.
  • Measure the slot width and depth with a ruler or calipers.
  • Confirm you can place the gauge in the left or right groove as required for the cut.
  • Tighten the miter gauge knob and verify it holds position without slipping.

Setup and safety points that affect “fit”

Your manual emphasizes controlled cutting: never cut freehand; use the rip fence for ripping and the miter gauge for crosscutting.

Before cutting, verify:

  • Blade is tight
  • Bevel angle locking handle is locked
  • Rip fence is parallel to the miter gauge groove and blade (when ripping)
  • Miter gauge knob is tight (when crosscutting)

Replace vs. upgrade

If you see this Do this
Loose fit and no way to adjust play Upgrade to an adjustable-bar miter gauge
Binding in the slot Replace with the correct bar size/style
Off-angle cuts Calibrate the gauge and blade alignment first

Why it matters

A mismatched miter gauge can cause inaccurate cuts, binding, and higher kickback risk. A properly fitted gauge helps keep the workpiece flat to the table and tight to the gauge face.

For accessories and replacement items, start with the model parts list, then search by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

Yes; you can run an 8-inch blade on a 10-inch table saw like the Tradesman 55-6883-2 if the blade matches the saw’s arbor size and the blade can be clamped securely with the flange and arbor nut. The main tradeoff is reduced maximum cutting depth.

What changes when you go from 10-inch to 8-inch

An 8-inch blade is a common swap, but it changes how the saw cuts and how you set it up.

  • Maximum cut depth is lower, so thick stock may not cut through in one pass.
  • The blade guard and table insert still must fit and operate correctly after the change.
  • Feed rate and cut quality depend more on tooth count, sharpness, and alignment than diameter.
  • You still need proper fence and miter gauge technique to reduce kickback risk.

Fit and installation checks for the Tradesman 55-6883-2

We follow the same blade-mounting rules regardless of blade diameter.

  • Unplug the saw; confirm the switch is OFF.
  • Install the blade with the teeth pointing down toward the front of the table.
  • Seat the blade firmly against the inner flange.
  • Install the outer flange and arbor nut; tighten the arbor nut securely.
  • Reinstall and adjust the table insert so it sits flush.

For diagrams and the exact procedure, use the 55-6883-2 owner's manual.

8-inch vs 10-inch blade: quick comparison

Item 8-inch blade on a 10-inch saw 10-inch blade (typical)
Cutting depth Reduced Full design capacity
Best use Thinner stock, some specialty cuts General ripping and crosscutting
Setup impact More likely to notice depth limits Standard

If you meant an 8-inch dado set

This model’s manual includes specific dado guidance: use only a stackable dado set (not adjustable or wobble types), and confirm the installed dado assembly will not strike the motor, table, or base during operation. It also notes you remove the blade guard and splitter for dado work and reinstall them when finished.

Related instructions: how to replace a table saw blade.

Why it matters

Blade diameter affects cutting depth and safety clearances. Correct seating of the blade, flange, and arbor nut reduces vibration and helps prevent binding and kickback.

You can look up parts and accessories by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

On the Tradesman 55-6883-2 table saw, the arbor nut uses a standard right-hand thread; you tighten it by turning clockwise and loosen it by turning counterclockwise. This is the blade-install direction shown in the 55-6883-2 owner's manual.

How to remove and reinstall the blade nut (safe, correct direction)

  • Unplug the saw and remove the table insert.
  • Raise the blade to maximum height.
  • Use the two blade wrenches: one holds the arbor flats, the other turns the nut.
  • Loosen: turn the arbor nut counterclockwise.
  • Reinstall the outer flange and nut; tighten clockwise.
  • Confirm the blade, flange, and nut are fully seated before final tightening.

Quick reference

Task Direction Notes
Loosen arbor nut Counterclockwise Hold arbor flats with the open-end wrench
Tighten arbor nut Clockwise Tighten with the box-end wrench
Blade orientation N/A Teeth point down toward the front of the table

Why it matters

Turning the nut the wrong way can round the nut, damage arbor threads, or leave the blade under-clamped. Correct tightening keeps the blade clamped between the flange and inner flange, reducing vibration and improving cut quality.

For replacement parts and diagrams for the Tradesman 55-6883-2, search by model on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

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