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Kenmore 11086180100 electric dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 11086180100 electric dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

Kenmore 11086180100 electric dryer
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Browse Parts for 11086180100 Electric Dryer

  • Whirlpool Dryer Drum Belt, 92-1/4-inch for Kenmore 11086180100 - Part 341241

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Drum Belt

    Part #349533

    Replaced by #341241

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drum Support Roller Kit for Kenmore 11086180100 - Part 349241T

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Support

    Part #349241

    Replaced by #349241T

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drive Motor for Kenmore 11086180100 - Part 279827

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Switch

    Part #349588

    Replaced by #279827

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drive Motor for Kenmore 11086180100 - Part 279827

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Switch

    Part #337351

    Replaced by #279827

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Drive Motor for Kenmore 11086180100 - Part 279827

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Motor

    Part #690870

    Replaced by #279827

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Blower Wheel for Kenmore 11086180100 - Part WP694089

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Dryer Blower Wheel

    Part #343939

    Replaced by #WP694089

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Idler Pulley for Kenmore 11086180100 - Part WP691366

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Pulley

    Part #688166

    Replaced by #WP691366

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  • Dryer Door Latch Kit for Kenmore 11086180100 - Part 279570

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Catch

    Part #690081

    Replaced by #279570

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  • Dryer Door Latch Kit for Kenmore 11086180100 - Part 279570

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Strike

    Part #690082

    Replaced by #279570

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  • Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element for Kenmore 11086180100 - Part WP4391960

    Bulkhead parts diagram

    Element

    Part #691724

    Replaced by #WP4391960

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Kenmore Electric Dryer 11086180100 FAQs

On Kenmore electric dryer model 11086180100, a blown thermal fuse usually shows up as a dryer that won’t start at all (most common) or runs but won’t heat. The sure way to know is a continuity test on the fuse with the dryer unplugged; a blown fuse reads open (no continuity). Use the correct replacement, such as the fuse WP3390719.

Quick symptoms checklist
  • Dryer has power but does not start when you press Start
  • Motor hums briefly, then stops (some cases)
  • Dryer tumbles but no heat (less common on many electric models)
  • Problem appeared after a restricted vent or very long dry times
  • Lint screen area feels unusually hot, or the cabinet smells hot
How we test the thermal fuse (simple continuity test)
  1. Unplug the dryer (or switch off the breaker) before opening any panels.
  2. Access the thermal fuse (commonly on the blower housing or exhaust duct area).
  3. Pull the wire connectors off the fuse terminals (grab the connector, not the wire).
  4. Set a multimeter to continuity or ohms.
  5. Touch a probe to each terminal.
What the meter reading means
Meter result What it means What to do next
Beep or near 0 Ω Fuse is good Check door switch, start switch, belt switch (if equipped), motor, and power supply
No beep or OL/open Fuse is blown Replace the thermal fuse and fix the airflow restriction
Why the fuse blew (and what to fix so it doesn’t happen again)

A thermal fuse is a one-time safety device; it opens when the dryer overheats. Overheating is usually caused by poor airflow.

  • Clean the lint screen and housing
  • Inspect and clear the vent duct to the outside
  • Replace crushed, kinked, or excessively long vent runs
  • Check the blower wheel for damage or looseness (see dryer blower wheel WP694089)
  • Confirm the dryer is not pushed tight against the wall
Why it matters

Replacing only the fuse can get the dryer running again, but restoring proper venting prevents repeat overheating, protects the drive motor, and shortens dry times.

Last updated: February 2026

Your Kenmore dryer’s model number is printed on the appliance’s ID label; for this parts page, the model is 11086180100. On most Kenmore electric dryers, you can find that label inside the door opening, on the door frame, or on the back panel.

Where to look for the model number label

Check these common spots in this order:

  • Inside the dryer door opening on the cabinet frame (most common)
  • On the back panel of the dryer cabinet
  • Along the door frame edge near the latch area
  • On the lower front frame behind the toe panel (some designs)
  • Inside the cabinet near the lint duct area (less common)
What the model number looks like (and why it matters)

Kenmore model numbers are usually a long string of digits. For example, 11086180100 identifies the exact design family so we can match the correct drum belt, door switch, thermal fuse, and other dryer parts.

Quick ID tips
  • Write the model number exactly as shown (all digits, no spaces)
  • Also record the serial number; it helps confirm production changes
  • If the label is worn, use a flashlight and take a close-up photo
Common Kenmore prefixes (helpful for parts matching)
What you see on the label What it usually indicates Why you care
110… Whirlpool-built Kenmore Many parts cross to Whirlpool-style components
417… Frigidaire-built Kenmore Different heating and control designs
796… LG-built Kenmore Different sensors, boards, and error codes
If you’re troubleshooting while you’re identifying the model

If the dryer won’t start or stops mid-cycle, the model number helps us narrow likely causes such as a failed door switch or thermal fuse. For example, common electrical checks often involve the dryer door switch W10820036 and the fuse WP3390719.

Why it matters

Using the exact model number prevents ordering the wrong part and helps ensure the repair fits and functions correctly on your Kenmore electric dryer.

Last updated: February 2026

The average lifespan of the Kenmore 11086180100 electric dryer is about 13 years with normal household use and basic maintenance (lint removal, good airflow, and avoiding overloads). Replacing common wear parts on time helps this model reach its full service life.

Typical lifespan and what affects it

Most electric dryers last longest when heat and airflow stay in the normal range.

  • Vent restriction (crushed hose, long run, clogged hood) is the biggest life-shortener
  • Overloading strains the drive system and motor
  • Lint buildup raises operating temperature and increases cycling
  • Worn drum support or belt parts can cause noise and extra drag
  • Electrical issues (loose terminal connections) can damage components
Common wear parts that often decide “repair vs replace”

If the dryer still heats and tumbles, replacing a few parts can restore reliable operation.

Symptom Common cause Example part for 11086180100
Drum not turning Worn/broken belt Drum belt 341241
Runs but no heat Blown thermal fuse (often from poor airflow) Fuse WP3390719
Loud rumble/squeal Worn pulley or blower wheel Pulley WP691366
Won’t start when door closes Failed door switch Dryer door switch W10820036
Why it matters

A dryer that is close to the 13-year mark can still be a good candidate for repair if the cabinet and drum are solid and the problem is limited to normal wear items (belt, fuse, pulley). Keeping the venting clean also reduces dry times and helps protect the motor and thermostat.

Last updated: March 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your dryers

Choose a symptom to see related dryer repairs.

Main causes: bad gas valve coils, broken heating element, tripped safety thermostat or fuse, bad operating thermostat, c…

Main causes: clogged exhaust system, heating system failure, deposits on moisture sensor, control system failure…

Main causes: clogged exhaust vent, bad motor relay, loose dryer door catch, bad door switch, control system failure, fau…

Main causes: door switch failure, lack of power, broken belt, blown thermal fuse, bad drive motor, control system failur…

Main causes: damaged door strike, worn door catch…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, blown thermal fuse, bad door s…

Main causes: bad timer or electronic control board, door switch failure…

Main causes: bad drum support roller, damaged idler pulley, broken blower fan blade, worn drum glide bearing, bad drive …

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