How do I tell what model my Kenmore dryer is?
Your Kenmore dryer’s model number is printed on the appliance ID label; on most Kenmore dryers it’s located around the door opening (door frame) or just inside the door. For your dryer, the model number format looks like 110.XXXXXXXX (example: 11087673100).
Check these common spots in this order:
- On the door frame around the opening (most common)
- Just inside the door on the cabinet front
- On the back panel of the dryer
- On a side panel near the rear edge
Kenmore model numbers usually start with a 3-digit prefix that identifies the manufacturer. For example:
| Prefix | Common manufacturer | What it helps with |
|---|---|---|
| 110 | Whirlpool-built Kenmore | Matching the correct parts diagrams and replacement parts |
| 417 | Frigidaire/Electrolux-built Kenmore | Finding the right error code list and parts |
| 796 | LG-built Kenmore | Identifying the correct control and sensor parts |
Use these quick checks before ordering parts:
- Write down the full model number exactly as shown (all digits)
- Record the serial number too (it helps distinguish production runs)
- Take a clear photo of the label for reference
- If the label is worn, look for faint stamped/printed characters under bright light
Kenmore dryers can look similar across different series, but parts like the drive belt, igniter, and gas valve components vary by model. Using the exact model number helps us match parts for your Kenmore 11087673100 gas dryer, such as the belt 341241 or the dryer igniter 279311.
If your dryer is showing a code and you’re trying to confirm the series, use our Kenmore 110 series electronic control model dryer error codes reference to narrow down what you’re seeing on the display.
Last updated: February 2026
How do I know if my Kenmore dryer thermal fuse is blown?
If your Kenmore gas dryer model 11087673100 suddenly will not run at all, a blown thermal fuse is a common cause. Less often, the dryer may run but shut off quickly; the most reliable way to know is to test the fuse for continuity with a multimeter.
A thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that opens when the dryer overheats (often from restricted airflow). Common signs include:
- Dryer will not start (no motor run) even though the controls respond
- Dryer starts, then stops after a short time (overheat condition may still be present)
- Burning smell or unusually hot cabinet (stop using the dryer immediately)
- Lint screen area has weak airflow
- Vent hood outside has little to no warm air flow
- Unplug the dryer and shut off the gas supply.
- Access the thermal fuse (location varies by design; commonly on the blower housing or exhaust duct inside the cabinet).
- Pull the wires off the fuse terminals.
- Set a multimeter to continuity or lowest ohms.
- Touch a probe to each terminal.
- Good fuse: continuity (beep) or near 0 ohms
- Blown fuse: no continuity (no beep) or infinite resistance
Replacing the fuse without correcting airflow usually leads to another failure.
- Clean the lint screen and the lint screen housing
- Inspect and clear the entire vent run to the outside
- Replace crushed, kinked, or excessively long venting
- Confirm the outside vent flap opens fully during operation
If you are already opening the cabinet, these parts are often checked during no-heat or airflow-related repairs:
| Symptom | Common area to check | Example part on this model page |
|---|---|---|
| No heat (gas) or intermittent heat | Burner ignition system | Dryer igniter 279311 |
| Heat cuts in and out | Gas valve coils | Dryer valve coil kit 279834 |
| Weak airflow, loud rumble | Blower wheel | Dryer blower wheel WP694089 |
A blown thermal fuse is telling you the dryer overheated. Restoring proper airflow helps the dryer dry faster, protects the burner system, and reduces repeat shutdowns.
Last updated: February 2026
What are common dryer part failures?
On the Kenmore gas dryer model 11087673100, the most common part failures usually show up as no heat, no tumble, loud squealing/thumping, or shutting off mid-cycle. These symptoms typically trace back to the drive system (belt and pulley), the burner ignition system, airflow components, or a worn motor.
- Drum won’t turn: a broken belt or a seized pulley can stop tumbling (see belt 341241 and pulley WP8066184).
- Runs but won’t heat: ignition or gas valve components often cause intermittent or no flame (see dryer igniter 279311 and dryer valve coil kit 279834).
- Weak airflow, long dry times: a damaged blower wheel can reduce airflow and cause overheating (see dryer blower wheel WP694089).
- Clicking, humming, or won’t start: a failing drive motor can struggle to start or run (see motor 279827).
- Door won’t stay closed or won’t start when closed: a worn latch can prevent proper door closure (see catch 279570).
| Symptom | Most likely area | Parts on this model that commonly apply |
|---|---|---|
| No tumble, motor runs | Drive system | Belt, pulley |
| No heat or heat cuts out | Gas ignition | Igniter, valve coil kit, radiant sensor |
| Loud squeal or scraping | Drum support/bearing area | Drum front bearing, support |
| Poor airflow, burning smell | Blower/venting | Blower wheel |
Catching these failures early helps prevent secondary damage. For example, a slipping belt can overwork the motor, and poor airflow can cause overheating that shortens the life of multiple components.
If your dryer has an electronic control and is showing a code, use our Kenmore 110 series electronic control model dryer error codes guide to match the code to the most likely failure area before ordering parts.
Last updated: February 2026





