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Maytag MAV8551AWQ washer/dryer

Maytag MAV8551AWQ washer/dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Maytag MAV8551AWQ washer/dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for MAV8551AWQ Washer/Dryer

  • Washer Hose Clamp for Maytag MAV8551AWQ - Part WP285655

    Cabinet diagram

    Clamp Spring

    Part #22002838

    Replaced by #WP285655

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  • Washer Hose Clamp for Maytag MAV8551AWQ - Part WP285655

    Base diagram

    Hose Clamp

    Part #22002853

    Replaced by #WP285655

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  • Washer Drive Belt for Maytag MAV8551AWQ - Part WP22003483

    Base diagram

    Washer Drive Belt

    Part #22003483

    Replaced by #WP22003483

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  • Washer Screw for Maytag MAV8551AWQ - Part W11573574

    Cabinet diagram

    Washer Screw

    Part #22001995

    Replaced by #W11573574

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  • Washer Cold/hot Water Fill Hose, 5-ft for Maytag MAV8551AWQ - Part WP89503

    Cabinet diagram

    Inlet Hose

    Part #33-7891

    Replaced by #WP89503

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  • Washer Pulley And Thrust Bearing Kit for Maytag MAV8551AWQ - Part 12002213

    Transmission diagram

    Pulley

    Part #12001797

    Replaced by #12002213

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  • Washer Pulley And Thrust Bearing Kit for Maytag MAV8551AWQ - Part 12002213

    Transmission diagram

    Thrust Brg K

    Part #12500036

    Replaced by #12002213

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  • Washer Pulley And Thrust Bearing Kit for Maytag MAV8551AWQ - Part 12002213

    Transmission diagram

    Cam Replacem

    Part #LA-2007

    Replaced by #12002213

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  • Whirlpool Washer Drive Motor for Maytag MAV8551AWQ - Part WP21001950

    Base diagram

    Pulley

    Part #22004297

    Replaced by #WP21001950

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  • Whirlpool Washer Drive Motor for Maytag MAV8551AWQ - Part WP21001950

    Base diagram

    Motor (110v

    Part #21001750

    Replaced by #WP21001950

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Maytag Washer/Dryer MAV8551AWQ FAQs

On the Maytag MAV8551AWQ washer, Quick Wash is designed to refresh a small, lightly soiled load using a minimal water level, so it typically uses less water than a regular cycle when you keep the load small and the water level low (as intended). See the cycle guidance in the owner's manual.

What “less water” means on this washer

Quick Wash saves water mainly because it is meant for:

  • Small loads only
  • Little to no soil
  • Minimal water level setting
  • Very small detergent dose (about 1 teaspoon)

If you run Quick Wash with a larger load or raise the water level, water use increases and the advantage goes away.

How to get the lowest water use (and still clean well)

Use these settings and habits for MAV8551AWQ:

  • Choose Quick Wash only for a small load with light soil
  • Set the water level to the lowest setting that still allows good circulation
  • Load loosely; do not pack items tight
  • Use the correct wash temperature for the fabrics (ATC may blend water to hit target temps)
  • Measure detergent carefully; too much can cause extra suds and poor rinsing

Quick comparison: Quick Wash vs. Regular cycle

Feature Quick Wash Regular cycle
Best for Refreshing lightly worn items Everyday cottons, towels, jeans
Load size Small Small to large
Water level Minimal User-selected (often higher)
Detergent Very small amount Normal measured amount

Why it matters

Using Quick Wash the way it was designed helps reduce water use and can shorten overall cycle time. Using it for heavy soil or large loads often leads to poor cleaning and can leave detergent residue.

Last updated: February 2026

On the Maytag MAV8551AWQ, there is no electronic “lid lock reset” like newer washers; it uses a safety lid switch. Most “lid locked” or no-start symptoms clear with a power reset and by making sure the lid switch is being pressed properly. See the owner's manual for normal lid switch operation.

Quick reset steps (safe and effective)

  • Push the control dial IN to stop the washer.
  • Unplug the washer (or switch off the breaker) for 5 minutes.
  • Plug back in.
  • Close the lid firmly (do not slam).
  • Select a cycle, then pull the control dial OUT to start.

Check the lid switch and plunger (common cause)

This washer will not agitate or spin with the lid open, and it can stop for safety if the lid switch system malfunctions.

  • Confirm the lid closes squarely and fully.
  • Look for a broken or missing lid strike/plunger.
  • If the washer fills but will not agitate or spin, suspect the lid switch circuit.
  • If the lid switch is physically damaged, replace the switch.

Helpful parts for this model:

Symptoms and what they usually mean

What you see What to check first Likely fix
Won’t start at all Lid fully closed; dial pulled out Reseat lid; power reset
Fills but won’t agitate/spin Lid switch and plunger alignment Replace switch or plunger
Stops when lid is opened during spin Normal safety behavior Close lid; pull dial out to continue

Why it matters

The lid switch is a built-in safety device. If it is not being pressed correctly, the washer can pause or stop to prevent spinning with the lid open, which protects you and the drive system.

Last updated: February 2026

To check the drain pump on your Maytag MAV8551AWQ washer, we confirm the washer is set up to drain correctly first, then test whether the pump is getting power during the drain portion of the cycle. If the pump gets power but will not run, the pump is bad.

Step 1: Rule out a drain setup problem (fast checks)

A drain issue is often caused by the hose setup, not the pump. Use the guidance in the installation guide to verify these basics:

  • Make sure the drain hose is not kinked, twisted, or crushed.
  • Confirm the drain hose is elevated at least to the top of the tub.
  • Aim for a standpipe or drain height of 3 to 5 feet for best performance.
  • If the drain height is over 8 feet, the washer may not remove water completely.
  • If the drain must be over 5 feet, a high-volume pump may be needed for better draining.

Step 2: Check for a clog before electrical testing

Before using a meter, check for restrictions that can mimic a failed pump:

  • Unplug the washer.
  • Lower the drain hose to a bucket or floor drain and see if water flows out by gravity.
  • Inspect the drain hose for lint or small items.
  • If accessible, check the pump inlet and outlet hoses for debris.

Step 3: Test the drain pump for power (120 VAC)

When the washer should be draining, the drain pump should receive line voltage.

  • Unplug the washer; access the pump wiring.
  • Reconnect power and start a cycle that includes drain/spin.
  • Carefully measure voltage at the pump terminals during drain.
  • 120 VAC present but pump does not run: replace the pump.
  • No voltage at the pump: troubleshoot the lid switch circuit, timer, wiring, or controls.

Common “no drain” symptoms and what they usually mean

Symptom Most likely cause What to check next
Hums but won’t drain Pump jammed or failing Pump inlet, impeller area, hoses
Won’t drain and won’t spin Safety circuit stopping operation Lid must close; lid switch system
Drains slowly Drain height or restriction Hose routing, standpipe height

Why it matters

On the MAV8551AWQ, the washer will not complete spin and water removal if draining is restricted or if a safety input (like the lid switch) prevents operation. Confirming hose height and kinks first prevents replacing parts that are still good.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your washers

Choose a symptom to see related washer repairs.

Main causes: clogged drain hose, house drain clogged, bad drain pump, water-level pressure switch failure, bad control b…

Main causes: broken lid switch or lid lock, bad pressure switch, broken shifter assembly, faulty control system…

Main causes: worn agitator dogs, bad clutch, broken motor coupler, shifter assembly failure, broken door lock, suspensio…

Main causes: water heater failure, bad water temperature switch, faulty control board, bad water valve, faulty water tem…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, wiring failure, bad power cord, electronic control board failure, bad user interf…

Main causes: no water supply, bad water valves, water-level pressure switch failure, control system failure, bad door lo…

Main causes: unbalanced load, loose spanner nut, worn drive block, broken shock absorber or suspension spring, debris in…

Main causes: leaky water inlet valve, faulty water-level pressure switch, bad electronic control board…

Main causes: bad lid switch or door lock, bad timer or electronic control board, wiring failure, bad water inlet valve a…

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