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Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 refrigerator
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Browse Parts for GZ25FSRXYY0 Refrigerators

  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Evaporator Fan for Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 - Part W11529245

    Motor and ice container parts diagram

    Refrigerator Evaporator Motor

    Part #W10308033

    Replaced by #W11529245

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  • Refrigerator Compressor for Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 - Part W10276644

    Unit parts diagram

    Refrigerator Compressor

    Part #W10168473

    Replaced by #W10276644

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  • Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor for Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 - Part W11334745

    Freezer liner parts diagram

    Evaporator Motor

    Part #W10252866

    Replaced by #W11334745

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  • Whirlpool Auxiliary Le for Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 - Part W10679370

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Refrigerator Module

    Part #W10320778

    Replaced by #W10679370

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  • Appliance Spray Paint (white) for Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 - Part 350930

    Optional parts (not included) diagram

    Spray Paint (white)

    Part #350930

    Replaced by #350930

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  • Refrigerator Freezer Basket, Upper for Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 - Part W11218042

    Freezer door parts diagram

    Refrigerator Freezer Basket

    Part #W10348249

    Replaced by #W11218042

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  • Module- Fz L for Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 - Part W11434460

    Freezer liner parts diagram

    Refrigerator Housing

    Part #W10315248

    Replaced by #W11434460

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  • Adapter-pant for Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 - Part W11093714

    Shelf parts diagram

    Refrigerator Bracket

    Part #W10295157

    Replaced by #W11093714

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  • Refrigerator Pivot Block Screw for Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 - Part W10854958

    Cabinet parts diagram

    Refrigerator Pivot Block Screw

    Part #12990302

    Replaced by #W10854958

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  • Housing for Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 - Part W11684721

    Refrigerator liner parts diagram

    Refrigerator Housing

    Part #W10343359

    Replaced by #W11684721

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Whirlpool Refrigerator GZ25FSRXYY0 FAQs

On the Whirlpool GZ25FSRXYY0 bottom-mount refrigerator, the base grille (toe grille) typically snaps into place along the bottom front of the cabinet. We remove it by pulling the grille straight out from the bottom edge, then lifting it off the top tabs; use the steps in the GZ25FSRXYY0 owner's manual for the exact latch style.

Steps to remove the base grille
  • Unplug the refrigerator or switch off power at the breaker (recommended anytime your hands are near wiring or the condenser fan area).
  • Open both fresh food doors for better access.
  • Grip the base grille at the left and right ends.
  • Pull the bottom of the grille straight toward you to release the lower clips.
  • Once the bottom is free, lift the grille up and away to unhook it from the upper tabs.
  • If it feels stuck, use a plastic putty knife to gently pry near the clip locations (avoid metal tools that can scratch the finish).
If the grille will not come off

Most Whirlpool bottom-mount designs use either snap clips, quarter-turn fasteners, or a combination. Check these common hang-ups:

  • Hidden screws at the far left or right end caps
  • Quarter-turn fasteners that need a 90-degree turn before pulling
  • Ice buildup in the freezer area that has frozen the grille edge in place
  • Leveling legs extended too far, pinching the grille
Quick check table
What you see What to do
Grille flexes but will not release Pull from both ends evenly; then lift up off the top tabs
Round plastic “locks” Turn each lock 1/4 turn; then pull grille forward
Screws at ends Remove screws first; then pull and lift
Why it matters

We remove the base grille to access the condenser area for cleaning, to reach leveling legs, and to inspect for leaks or airflow problems. A properly seated grille also helps protect components and supports correct airflow.

Last updated: February 2026

For Whirlpool model GZ25FSRXYY0, we leave the cardboard-like panel on the bottom or rear-lower area in place; it is a protective cover and part of the airflow design for the condenser area. Remove only temporary shipping materials, not fixed panels shown in the GZ25FSRXYY0 owner's manual.

What to remove vs. what to keep
  • Remove loose shipping tape, foam blocks, and plastic film from shelves and drawers.
  • Remove any cardboard spacers that are clearly temporary and not fastened.
  • Keep any bottom or rear-lower cover that is screwed on, clipped in, or framed.
  • Keep panels that route air across the condenser and protect wiring.
  • Keep toe grilles and covers unless the manual instructs removal for cleaning.
Quick check: is it shipping cardboard or a protective cover?
What you see Typical signs What we recommend
Loose cardboard sheet Not fastened; slides out easily Remove it
Cardboard/fiberboard panel Held by screws/clips; covers coils/wiring Leave it installed
Metal or plastic cover Rigid; fastened; shaped for airflow Leave it installed
Why it matters

That lower cover helps protect components (wiring, condenser fan area, tubing) and supports proper airflow. Removing it can lead to hotter running, poor cooling performance, or more dust buildup around the condenser area.

If you are trying to fix a cooling or noise issue

Before removing any panels, we follow these safe, high-impact steps:

  • Unplug the refrigerator.
  • Vacuum dust from accessible condenser areas (as the manual describes).
  • Confirm the doors seal and close fully.
  • Make sure the unit has adequate clearance for airflow.
  • If you suspect an airflow control issue, check the refrigerator damper control assembly WPW10196393 as a common related part.

Last updated: February 2026

A bottom-freezer refrigerator like Whirlpool model GZ25FSRXYY0 keeps fresh food at eye level, but the tradeoffs are mostly access and ergonomics: you bend more to reach frozen items, and the freezer drawer can be less convenient for organizing and grabbing small packages. For model-specific features and adjustments, use the GZ25FSRXYY0 owner's manual.

Common disadvantages you may notice
  • More bending for frozen food: You typically crouch to reach items in the lower drawer.
  • Drawer organization can be tricky: Food can stack and hide behind other items, especially in deep bins.
  • Heavier pull-out loads: A full freezer drawer can feel heavy and may not glide smoothly if overloaded.
  • Less “quick grab” access: Compared with a side-by-side, you often open a larger compartment to get one item.
  • Potential for frost or ice buildup in the drawer area: If the door is left ajar or the seal is weak, moisture can enter and freeze.
What to check if the freezer drawer is hard to open or won’t seal well

These issues can make the “bottom freezer disadvantage” feel worse than it should.

  • Make sure packages are not blocking the drawer from closing fully.
  • Inspect the door seal for gaps, rips, or areas that are not contacting the cabinet evenly.
  • Confirm the refrigerator is level front-to-back and side-to-side; leveling helps doors self-close.
  • Clean and dry the gasket and mating surfaces; sticky residue can prevent a good seal.
  • If the drawer is misaligned or sagging, check the slide/rail area for obstructions or damage.
Quick symptom guide
What you see Likely cause What to do first
Frost in freezer drawer Door not sealing, frequent openings Clean gasket, check for obstructions, verify leveling
Drawer feels very heavy Overloaded drawer, items jammed Reduce load, reorganize into smaller bins
Ice clumps, poor airflow Blocked vents, warm air intrusion Clear vents, confirm drawer closes fully
Why it matters

Bottom-freezer designs are efficient for everyday fresh-food use, but freezer performance depends heavily on a tight seal and smooth drawer operation. When the drawer does not close cleanly, you can get frost, odors, and temperature swings that affect food quality.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

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