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Maytag LA612 washer/dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Maytag LA612 washer/dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

Maytag LA612 washer/dryer
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Browse Parts for LA612 Washer/Dryer

  • Suds Hose, L for Maytag LA612 - Part 211171

    Suds saver components diagram

    Suds Hose, L

    Part #211171

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Shaft for Maytag LA612 - Part 215410

    Orbital transmission diagram

    Shaft

    Part #215410

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Screw, #6-20 for Maytag LA612 - Part 213501

    Screw, #6-20

    Part #213501

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Washer Screw And Fastener, 2-pack for Maytag LA612 - Part 204439

    Cabinet, water valve, hoses & frnt panel diagram

    Washer Screw And Fastener, 2-pack

    Part #204439

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Pivot Pin for Maytag LA612 - Part 213855

    Suds saver components diagram

    Pivot Pin

    Part #213855

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Bevel Gear for Maytag LA612 - Part 206713

    Orbital transmission diagram

    Bevel Gear

    Part #206713

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Washer Lid Switch Actuator And Bracket Kit for Maytag LA612 - Part 204968

    Washer Lid Switch Actuator And Bracket Kit

    Part #204968

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Double Washer for Maytag LA612 - Part 213073

    Base, pump, motor & components diagram

    Double Washer

    Part #213073

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Retainer Bolt for Maytag LA612 - Part 213326

    Clutch, brake & belts diagram

    Retainer Bolt

    Part #213326

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Screw for Maytag LA612 - Part 054260

    Suds saver components diagram

    Screw

    Part #054260

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Maytag Washer/Dryer LA612 FAQs

You can order replacement parts for your Maytag LA612 washer directly from our Maytag parts catalog by searching your model number and selecting the exact part you need. Ordering by model helps ensure the part fits your washer and matches the original specifications.

How to order the right part for Maytag LA612

  • Confirm the model number on the washer’s model tag is LA612.
  • Identify the system you’re repairing (lid switch, water fill, drain, drive).
  • Match the part by description and part ID, not just by appearance.
  • Add the part to cart and keep your old part until the repair is complete.
  • If multiple versions exist, compare mounting points and wire/connector style.

Common Maytag LA612 parts customers order

Here are a few examples of model-matched parts available for this washer:

What it fixes Example part When to consider it
Won’t spin or stops when lid opens Lid switch W10820036 Lid must be closed for spin/agitate on many top-load designs
Slow fill or no fill Washer water inlet valve 205613 Weak flow, no hot/cold fill, or intermittent filling
Won’t drain or leaks at drain line Drain hose WP22003410 Cracks, pinholes, loose fit, or drain leaks

Tips to avoid ordering the wrong part

  • Compare your old part to the listing photos and mounting details.
  • For electrical parts, verify wire count and connector type.
  • For hoses and clamps, confirm diameter and connection style.
  • If you’re unsure, start with the most failure-prone items (lid switch, inlet valve, drain hose).

Why it matters

Using model-specific parts for the Maytag LA612 reduces fitment issues, prevents leaks and wiring mismatches, and helps your washer return to normal wash, drain, and spin performance with fewer repeat repairs.

Last updated: February 2026

A Maytag washer typically lasts 10 to 13 years with normal household use and basic maintenance. For an older, belt-driven model like Maytag LA612, lifespan depends most on load size, how often it runs, and whether wear items (like the drive belt and lid switch) are replaced when symptoms start.

What affects washer lifespan the most

  • Overloading (stresses the drive system, tub bearings, and motor)
  • Unbalanced loads (increases vibration and bearing wear)
  • Hard water and detergent buildup (can contribute to poor draining and odors)
  • Running with a slipping belt (creates heat and accelerates wear)
  • Ignoring safety interlocks (a failing lid switch can stop cycles and lead to repeated restarts)

Common LA612 wear items that can extend service life

Replacing a worn part early often prevents secondary damage.

Symptom Likely wear area Example part for LA612
Won’t spin or stops mid-cycle Lid safety circuit Lid switch W10820036
Burning rubber smell, weak spin Drive system Washer drive belt 12112425
Loud rumble or grinding in spin Bearings/seals Tub bearing (inspect for play/leaks)

Maintenance habits that add years

  • Keep loads medium and balanced (mix items, avoid single heavy pieces)
  • Use HE detergent in small amounts (even in older machines, less suds helps)
  • Check hoses for bulges or leaks; replace aging fill hoses such as washer cold/hot water fill hose, 5-ft WP89503
  • Level the washer to reduce vibration and tub wear
  • Address leaks quickly; water can damage bearings, belts, and electrical connections

Why it matters

A washer that is maintained and repaired at the first sign of belt slip, vibration, or intermittent stopping usually costs less to keep running and avoids bigger failures like bearing or drive damage.

Last updated: February 2026

The most common Maytag washer problem is a no-spin or no-drain condition. On the Maytag LA612, the most frequent causes are a failed lid switch, a restricted drain hose, or a worn drive belt, all of which can stop the washer from draining and spinning normally.

Quick checks we recommend first

  • Make sure the lid closes firmly and the lid strike lines up with the switch
  • Redistribute the load; heavy items on one side can prevent a full-speed spin
  • Check the drain hose for kinks, clogs, or a standpipe that is too tight
  • Listen for the motor running but the tub not moving (often points to a belt issue)
  • Look for water left in the tub after the cycle (often points to a drain restriction)

Common symptoms and the most likely part to inspect

Symptom What it usually means What to check next
Won’t spin, but fills and agitates Lid safety circuit not closing Lid switch W10820036
Motor runs, but tub won’t spin Belt slipping, stretched, or broken Washer drive belt 12112425
Won’t drain or drains slowly Drain path restricted or hose damaged Drain hose WP22003410
Won’t fill or fills weakly Inlet valve issue or supply restriction Washer water inlet valve 205613

Why it matters

A washer that cannot drain or spin leaves clothes soaking wet and can strain the drive system. Catching the root cause early (lid switch, belt, or drain restriction) prevents repeat failures and reduces wear on the motor and bearings.

If you want one “most common” fix

On many top-load Maytag designs like the LA612, the lid switch is the first part we check because it can stop spin immediately for safety. If the washer agitates but will not spin, start with lid switch W10820036.

Last updated: February 2026

Yes, it’s usually worth fixing a Maytag washer like model LA612 when the problem is a common, replaceable part and the total repair cost stays under about half the price of a comparable replacement washer. If the washer has repeated breakdowns or major mechanical wear, replacement is the better value.

Quick way we decide: repair vs. replace

  • Repair when the issue is isolated (noisy belt, won’t start, won’t fill, won’t drain) and the tub and drive system are otherwise solid.
  • Replace when you have multiple symptoms at once (leaks plus loud spin plus poor agitation) or the repair requires extensive teardown.
  • Repair when you can confirm a single failed part, such as a lid safety switch.
  • Replace when rusted cabinet/tub damage is present or the machine has a long history of service calls.

Common LA612 repairs that are often worth it

These are typical “high-impact” fixes on older top-load Maytag washers that can restore normal operation:

Symptom Likely area Example part for LA612
Won’t start or stops when lid opens Lid safety circuit Lid switch W10820036
Squealing, burning rubber smell, weak spin Belt and drive Washer drive belt 12112425
Slow fill or no fill Water inlet/fill system Washer water inlet valve 205613

Cost and value checkpoints

Use these checkpoints before buying parts:

  • Add up parts + any tools + your time (or labor if hiring service).
  • If the estimate is under 50% of a new washer, repair is typically the better value.
  • If you’re replacing multiple major items at once (belt plus bearings plus seals), replacement usually wins.

Why it matters

A targeted repair can extend the life of a dependable Maytag washer and avoid the cost and hassle of replacement. The key is confirming the failure is limited to a serviceable part, not widespread wear in the tub bearings, drive components, or seals.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your washers

Choose a symptom to see related washer repairs.

Main causes: clogged drain hose, house drain clogged, bad drain pump, water-level pressure switch failure, bad control b…

Main causes: broken lid switch or lid lock, bad pressure switch, broken shifter assembly, faulty control system…

Main causes: worn agitator dogs, bad clutch, broken motor coupler, shifter assembly failure, broken door lock, suspensio…

Main causes: water heater failure, bad water temperature switch, faulty control board, bad water valve, faulty water tem…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, wiring failure, bad power cord, electronic control board failure, bad user interf…

Main causes: no water supply, bad water valves, water-level pressure switch failure, control system failure, bad door lo…

Main causes: unbalanced load, loose spanner nut, worn drive block, broken shock absorber or suspension spring, debris in…

Main causes: leaky water inlet valve, faulty water-level pressure switch, bad electronic control board…

Main causes: bad lid switch or door lock, bad timer or electronic control board, wiring failure, bad water inlet valve a…

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