Kenmore 79579413810 bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

Water under a Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator like model 79579413810 is most often caused by a clogged or frozen defrost drain that overflows into the base, or a water supply connection issue that drips down and collects underneath. Use the steps in the 79579413810 owner's manual to access the correct areas safely.

Most common causes (and what to check first)

• Defrost drain clogged or frozen: Water from normal defrosting cannot flow to the drain pan.
• Drain tube restricted or misrouted: The tube can clog with debris and back up.
• Water line connection seepage: A slow drip at the supply line or fitting can run down to the floor.
• Water inlet valve leaking: The valve can seep even when not dispensing.
• Drain pan shifted or cracked: Less common, but it can overflow or leak.

Quick diagnostic checklist

1. Confirm the leak is water, not oil (compressor oil is rare; water is far more common).
2. Look for ice buildup on the freezer floor or water pooling inside the fresh food section.
3. Pull the unit forward and check for wetness at the water line connection.
4. Inspect the back bottom area for a kinked or clogged drain tube.
5. If the leak happens only when making ice or dispensing water, focus on the water system.

Parts that commonly solve this problem

Symptom	Most likely area	Part to consider
Water appears after defrost cycles	Defrost drain path	Refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D
Leak only when ice maker fills	Water supply/valve	Lg refrigerator water inlet valve AJU73753101

Why it matters

Leaks underneath can lead to floor damage and can also indicate airflow or defrost drainage problems that eventually cause warm temperatures in the refrigerator or freezer.

Safety and best practices

• Unplug the refrigerator before working near wiring or fans.
• Use only warm water to clear ice in drain areas (no sharp tools).
• If you suspect water hammer or unstable water pressure, correct that before reconnecting the water line (the manual notes this can contribute to leakage).

Last updated: January 2026

On Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator model 79579413810, there is no separate “reset button” for the ice maker; the practical reset is to power-cycle the ice maker using its ON/OFF switch, then allow the freezer to reach 15°F (-9°C) or colder so ice production can restart normally. For control locations and operating details, use the 79579413810 owner's manual.

Quick reset steps (safe and effective)

• Turn the ice maker power switch to OFF (O).
• Wait 30 to 60 seconds.
• Turn the switch back ON (I).
• Make sure the shutoff arm can move freely and is not blocked by ice.
• Confirm the freezer is cold enough; the ice maker starts once it reaches 15°F (-9°C) or below.
• Discard the first few batches if the refrigerator is newly installed or has been unused for a while.

If it still will not make ice

Most “no ice” complaints are caused by temperature, water supply, or a blocked sensor area.

• Check water pressure: typical requirement is 20 to 120 psi without a water filter, or 40 to 120 psi with a water filter.
• Look for buzzing at fill time: a buzzing water valve with no water connected can happen if the switch is left ON.
• Keep the ice-detecting sensor area clean: frost or debris can interrupt production.
• Verify the bin and shutoff arm: when the bin fills to the shutoff arm level, the ice maker stops.

Symptom	Most likely cause	What we recommend
No ice after reset	Freezer too warm	Set freezer colder and wait 12 to 24 hours
Small or hollow cubes	Low water pressure	Check supply valve fully open and pressure range
Ice maker noisy/buzzing	Water not connected or valve issue	Turn switch OFF until water is connected

Why it matters

A correct “reset” prevents unnecessary part replacement and protects the ice maker. Keeping the switch ON before the water line is connected can damage the ice maker, and warm freezer temps stop ice production.

Last updated: January 2026

Freezer frost in your Kenmore 79579413810 bottom-mount refrigerator happens when warm, humid air gets into the freezer or when moisture cannot drain away. The most common causes are frequent door openings, a door that is not sealing, or a drain issue that lets water refreeze.

Quick checks we recommend first

• Make sure the freezer door closes fully and does not “bounce” back open.
• Reduce long door openings; the manual notes that frequent or long openings raise moisture and lead to frost.
• Inspect the door gasket for gaps, tears, or areas that are not contacting the cabinet.
• Look for ice buildup near the bottom of the freezer that can point to a drain problem.
• Confirm the temperature settings are not set colder than needed; adjust one increment at a time and allow time to stabilize.

Door seal and closing problems (most common)

A poor seal is the fastest way to create heavy frost because humid kitchen air constantly enters the freezer.

What you see	Likely cause	What to do
Frost on packages and walls	Door opened often or too long	Shorten openings; organize freezer for quick access
Frost mainly near the door edge	Gasket not sealing	Clean gasket and mating surface; check for warping
Door pops open slightly	Alignment or obstruction	Level the refrigerator; remove items blocking closure

For cleaning and care tips for door liners and gaskets, follow the guidance in the 79579413810 owner's manual.

Drain and airflow issues that can add frost

If meltwater from defrosting cannot flow away, it can refreeze and build ice that turns into frost over time.

• Clear any visible ice around the drain area and check for debris.
• If you suspect a damaged or restricted drain path, replacing the refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D is a common fix.
• Make sure vents are not blocked by food packages; restricted airflow can create cold spots and excess frost.

Why it matters

Heavy frost reduces airflow, makes the freezer work harder, and can lead to warmer temperatures, soft ice cream, and noisy fan operation.

Last updated: January 2026

On a Kenmore Elite refrigerator like model 79579413810, DH commonly indicates a defrost heating problem (the unit is not sensing normal defrost heat). Start by power-cycling the refrigerator, then check for heavy frost buildup and follow the diagnostic steps in the 79579413810 owner's manual.

What to check first (safe, quick steps)

• Unplug the refrigerator (or switch off the breaker) for 5 minutes, then restore power.
• Look for heavy frost on the freezer back wall; thick frost often points to a defrost system issue.
• Make sure the doors close fully and the gaskets seal; warm air leaks can mimic defrost problems.
• Confirm the temperature settings are reasonable (typical targets are 37°F fresh food, 0°F freezer).
• Clean dust from condenser coils; poor airflow can worsen cooling and defrost symptoms.

Likely causes of a DH/defrost heat issue

In this Kenmore bottom-mount design, DH is usually tied to the defrost circuit or the control’s ability to detect temperature change during defrost.

What can be wrong	What you may notice	What usually fixes it
Frosted evaporator area	Weak cooling, warmer fridge, fan noise changes	Defrost system diagnosis and repair
Temperature sensing problem	Temps swing, DH returns after reset	Sensor or wiring check
Control not driving defrost	DH persists, intermittent cooling	Control board diagnosis

Parts that are often involved

We match parts to symptoms after basic checks. These parts are commonly involved in cooling and defrost-related complaints:

• Refrigerator temperature sensor 6500JB2002X (helps the control “know” temperatures)
• Refrigerator electronic control board EBR81182766 (manages defrost timing and outputs)
• Heater sheath 5300JB1100R (a heater component used in the defrost system on some builds)

Why it matters

A true defrost heat problem lets frost build up on the evaporator, which blocks airflow. That can cause warm temperatures, poor ice production, and longer compressor run times.

Last updated: January 2026