Kenmore 79571092110 refrigerator Parts

Your Kenmore refrigerator’s model number is printed on the appliance ID label; on most Kenmore refrigerators it’s inside the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment on a side wall, near the ceiling, or around the crisper area. Once you find it, match it exactly (letters and numbers) to look up parts and the correct owner's manual.

Where to look for the model number label

Check these common spots first (use a flashlight and look for a white or silver sticker/plate):

• Inside the refrigerator section on the left or right side wall
• On the ceiling of the fresh food compartment
• On the frame just inside the door opening (hinge side)
• Behind or beside the crisper drawers
• Near the bottom front kick plate area (less common, but worth checking)

What the model number should look like

For this model page, the correct model number format is 79571092110 (all digits). Kenmore model numbers are often 8 to 11 characters and may include a 3-digit prefix that helps identify the product family.

What you see	What it means for parts lookup
Model number (example: 79571092110)	Use this to find exact Kenmore parts diagrams and part IDs
Serial number	Identifies your specific unit; helpful for service history, not for choosing most parts
“795.” prefix	Common Kenmore refrigerator prefix; still use the full model number for accuracy

Why it matters

We use the model number to match the right parts, diagrams, and revisions for your exact refrigerator. Even small differences (one digit) can change which water filter, ice maker, door switch, or control board fits.

Quick tips to avoid mix-ups

• Copy the model number exactly as printed (no spaces)
• Take a clear photo of the label before ordering parts
• If the label is worn, check your purchase paperwork or the first pages of the owner's manual

Last updated: February 2026

For Kenmore model 79571092110 bottom-mount refrigerators, the most common issues we see are poor cooling, ice maker or water dispenser problems, water leaks, frost buildup, unusual noises, and intermittent control or light problems. Many of these trace back to airflow restrictions, dirty condenser coils, or a failing sensor or valve; start with the basics in the owner's manual.

Most common symptoms and what usually causes them

• Not cooling or warm fridge section: dirty condenser coil, blocked vents, evaporator fan issue, or sealed-system/compressor trouble
• Ice maker not making ice: clogged filter, low water pressure, frozen fill tube, or ice maker failure
• Water dispenser slow or not dispensing: restricted filter, kinked water line, or inlet valve problem
• Water leaking or puddles: clogged/iced drain, cracked drain tube, or loose water tubing connection
• Frost buildup: door not sealing, door left ajar, or defrost system problem
• Noisy operation: fan blade hitting ice, worn fan motor, or vibration from the cabinet/lines

Quick checks we recommend before replacing parts

1. Confirm temperatures: set refrigerator to 37°F and freezer to 0°F (typical targets).
2. Clean the condenser area and make sure airflow around the cabinet is open.
3. Check door closing and gasket contact; a poor seal causes frost and warm temps.
4. If you have water/ice issues, replace the filter and purge air from the line.
5. Look for a frozen or clogged defrost drain if you see water under crispers.

Parts that commonly solve these problems (when symptoms match)

Symptom	Common part to check	Example part for this model
Slow water, bad taste/odor, weak ice production	Water filter	Genuine Kenmore refrigerator water filter 9690 AGF80300801
No water to dispenser/ice maker	Water inlet valve	Lg refrigerator water inlet valve AJU72992601
Interior light or door-closed sensing issues	Door switch	Refrigerator door switch 6600JB1010A
Leaking from inside, water under drawers	Drain tube	Refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D

Why it matters

Cooling, ice, and leak complaints often share the same root causes: restricted airflow or restricted water flow. Fixing those early helps protect food, prevents ice buildup, and reduces strain on major components like the compressor.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Kenmore 79571092110 bottom-mount refrigerator is warm and you hear repeated clicking from the back but the compressor never stays running, the compressor system is failing to start or is shutting down on overload. Confirm by checking airflow and condenser cleanliness first, then test the start/overload circuit and compressor.

Quick signs the compressor (or its start circuit) is the problem

• Fridge and freezer temperatures rise even though interior lights work
• You hear a click every few minutes (overload protector cycling)
• Compressor is very hot to the touch or completely cool when it should be running
• Condenser fan runs (if equipped) but cooling does not improve
• You hear loud buzzing/humming, then a click and it stops

Rule out common look-alikes first (fast checks)

Before condemning the compressor, we check these because they cause the same “not cooling” symptom:

• Dirty condenser coil: clean the refrigerator condenser coil ACG73784701
• Door not sealing: make sure doors close fully and gaskets are not torn
• Airflow blocked: avoid packing food against vents
• Defrost/drain issues: ice buildup can restrict airflow; inspect the drain path and drain tube

What to test next (in order)

1. Power reset: unplug for 5 minutes, plug back in, listen for a steady run.
2. Overload/start device behavior: if you hear click-buzz-click, the compressor may be locked or the start/overload is tripping.
3. Overload protector: a weak protector can trip early; compare symptoms with a known-good protector such as the refrigerator compressor overload protector 6750CL0001D.
4. Compressor electrical checks (multimeter): winding resistance and shorts to ground.
5. Sealed system clues: if the compressor runs but cooling is poor, a refrigerant restriction or leak is also possible.

Symptom-to-likely-cause guide

What you observe	Most likely cause	What we do next
Click every few minutes, no sustained run	Start/overload tripping or compressor locked	Test/replace overload, then test compressor
Compressor runs, still warm	Sealed system issue or airflow/defrost problem	Check frost pattern, fans, coils
No sound at all, no cooling	Control, power, or compressor circuit issue	Verify power, controls, wiring

Why it matters

A compressor replacement (sealed system work) is a major repair; confirming basics like condenser coil condition and the overload/start circuit prevents unnecessary parts replacement and gets you to the correct fix faster.

For model-specific operating details and normal sounds, use the owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026