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Maytag MBB2256GES refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Maytag MBB2256GES refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

Maytag MBB2256GES refrigerator
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Browse Parts for MBB2256GES Refrigerators

  • Refrigerator Screw for Maytag MBB2256GES - Part WP8281196

    Refrigerator door diagram

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #M0202336

    Replaced by #WP8281196

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  • Refrigerator Fan Shroud Seal for Maytag MBB2256GES - Part W10856123

    Evaporator area & rollers diagram

    Refrigerator Foam Gasket

    Part #67001291

    Replaced by #W10856123

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  • Refrigerator Door Hinge Shim (black) for Maytag MBB2256GES - Part WPM0274062

    Refrigerator door diagram

    Refrigerator Shim (black)

    Part #M0274062

    Replaced by #WPM0274062

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  • Refrigerator Ice Bin for Maytag MBB2256GES - Part WP67001255

    Optional ice maker kit ic11b p1328003w diagram

    Refrigerator Ice Bin

    Part #67001255

    Replaced by #WP67001255

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  • Gasket Drain Tube for Maytag MBB2256GES - Part WPB8381501

    Interior cabinet & freezer shelving diagram

    Gasket Drain Tube

    Part #B8381501

    Replaced by #WPB8381501

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  • Refrigerator Dairy Bin Cover for Maytag MBB2256GES - Part WP67003637

    Refrigerator door diagram

    Refrigerator Dairy Door

    Part #67001307

    Replaced by #WP67003637

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  • Center Hinge Assembly-std for Maytag MBB2256GES - Part W11689473

    Refrigerator door diagram

    Center Hinge

    Part #67001168

    Replaced by #W11689473

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  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Cube Ejector for Maytag MBB2256GES - Part WP2182124

    Optional ice maker kit ic11b p1328003w diagram

    Stripper, Ic

    Part #95102-1

    Replaced by #WP2182124

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  • Refrigerator Door Gasket (black) for Maytag MBB2256GES - Part WPW10436248

    Refrigerator door diagram

    Door Gasket

    Part #12683803B

    Replaced by #WPW10436248

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  • Refrigerator Leveling Leg for Maytag MBB2256GES - Part W11177593

    Interior cabinet & freezer shelving diagram

    Brake Foot

    Part #10354001

    Replaced by #W11177593

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Maytag Refrigerator MBB2256GES FAQs

On the Maytag MBB2256GES bottom-mount refrigerator, the “bottom part” is most often the machine compartment (also called the compressor compartment). It’s the lower area where the sealed-system and airflow parts live, and it’s typically accessed from the back or behind a lower grille.

Common names you’ll hear
  • Machine compartment: general name for the lower service area
  • Compressor compartment: focuses on the compressor and start components
  • Lower rear access area: what many owners call the panel area on the back
  • Base grille / toe grille area: the front lower trim area (if equipped)
What’s usually located down there

Depending on the exact configuration, the bottom area can include:

  • Compressor and start components (relay/overload)
  • Condenser coil and condenser fan (heat removal)
  • Drain pan (evaporates defrost water)
  • Wiring and control components

Here are a few example parts for this model that relate to the “bottom area”:

Area Example part What it does
Sealed system Refrigerator compressor W10160407 Pumps refrigerant through the system
Compressor start Refrigerator overload and ptc start relay WP12555902 Helps the compressor start and protects it
Drain/condensation Tray, drip e WPW10292802 Collects defrost water for evaporation
Why it matters

Knowing the correct name helps you troubleshoot and order the right parts. For example, a warm fridge with a running fan can point you toward the compressor compartment, while water under the unit often points to the drain pan area.

Quick safety and access tips
  • Unplug the refrigerator before removing any rear access panel.
  • Keep the condenser area clear of dust for better cooling performance.
  • If you smell electrical burning or hear repeated clicking near the compressor, stop and inspect the start components.

For cooling airflow issues that can be related to temperature problems, we also recommend: how to fix your evaporator cooling fan.

Last updated: January 2026

Bottom-mount refrigerators are better for many households because the fresh-food section sits at eye and waist level, so you reach milk, produce, and leftovers more easily. For the Maytag MBB2256GES, that layout typically improves day-to-day convenience while keeping freezer storage in a lower pull-out drawer.

When a bottom-mount is the better choice
  • You cook often and want fresh-food items at comfortable reach
  • You prefer wide freezer drawers for frozen foods and bulk items
  • You want fewer bends for everyday items (drinks, produce, deli items)
  • You like better organization in the refrigerator compartment
When a bottom-mount may not be better
  • You access the freezer more than the refrigerator (freezer is lower)
  • You want the lowest upfront cost (top-freezer models are often less expensive)
  • You need the lightest freezer access (drawers can be heavier when full)
Quick comparison
Feature Bottom-mount (like MBB2256GES) Top-freezer
Fresh-food access Easier, more ergonomic Lower shelves require more bending
Freezer access Lower drawer, good organization Upper door/shelves, easy to see
Best for Fresh-food focused households Freezer-heavy households
Why it matters

Most people open the refrigerator section far more than the freezer. A bottom-mount design puts the most-used items where you naturally reach, which can make meal prep faster and reduce strain.

Related maintenance that helps performance
  • Keep door seals clean and closing tightly to hold temperatures steady
  • If you notice warm spots or weak airflow, check the evaporator fan area for ice buildup
  • If ice production is important, keep the ice maker and water supply line in good shape

For ice-related upgrades or repairs on this model, we often see customers start with the refrigerator ice maker D7824706Q.

Last updated: January 2026

Ice on the bottom of a Maytag MBB2256GES bottom-mount freezer almost always happens when the defrost drain is clogged or frozen. Defrost water can’t flow to the drain pan, so it spills into the freezer floor and refreezes into a sheet of ice.

What to check first (fast, common fixes)
  • Unplug the refrigerator or turn off power at the breaker.
  • Remove the freezer drawer/bins and look for a solid ice slab on the freezer floor.
  • Find the drain trough under the evaporator cover; if it’s iced over, the drain is blocked.
  • Melt the ice with a hair dryer on low (keep heat moving) or use hot towels.
  • Flush the drain with hot water using a turkey baster until it flows freely.
  • Clear the drain tube from the back (near the drain pan) if flushing doesn’t open it.
Why the drain clogs (and how to prevent it)

Common causes include food debris, ice crystals, or sludge in the drain tube. After clearing it, we recommend:

  • Cleaning the drain opening and trough area.
  • Making sure packages don’t block the rear air vents.
  • Keeping door openings brief to reduce moisture load.
  • Checking door seals for gaps or tears.
Parts that can be involved

If the drain keeps freezing or you see heavy frost buildup behind the freezer back panel, a defrost system issue can contribute.

Symptom Most likely area What it points to
Ice only on freezer floor Defrost drain path Clog or frozen drain
Heavy frost on back wall Defrost system/airflow Defrost problem or fan issue
Warm freezer plus frost Evaporator airflow Fan blade/motor issue

If airflow is weak or noisy, inspect the evaporator fan area; a damaged blade can reduce airflow and worsen frost patterns. The correct replacement for this model is the refrigerator evaporator fan blade WP2169142.

Why it matters

A blocked drain doesn’t just create ice; it can also cause water leaks, drawer sticking, and temperature swings that affect food quality.

For additional prevention tips that reduce moisture and ice maker related issues, use our guide: how to prevent water dispenser and ice maker problems.

Last updated: January 2026

The most common Maytag refrigerator problem (including the Maytag MBB2256GES bottom-mount) is a cooling complaint: the fresh food section is warm, temperatures swing, or the unit runs too long. The next most common issue is ice maker trouble, often tied to airflow, dirty coils, or water supply problems.

Most common symptoms we see
  • Refrigerator not cold enough but freezer seems OK
  • Freezer not cold enough and ice cream is soft
  • Unit runs constantly or cycles too often
  • Frost buildup on the freezer back wall
  • Ice maker stops making ice or makes small/hollow cubes
Quick checks that fix many “not cooling” calls
  1. Confirm settings: Set the refrigerator to about 37°F and the freezer to about 0°F.
  2. Check door sealing: Look for gaps, torn gasket areas, or doors that do not close on their own.
  3. Improve airflow: Do not block vents with food packages; leave space around the back wall.
  4. Clean condenser coils: Dusty coils make the compressor run longer and cool worse.
  5. Listen for the evaporator fan: In many bottom-mount designs, a failed fan or fan blade reduces airflow to the refrigerator section.
Parts that commonly relate to these problems (MBB2256GES)

If troubleshooting points to a failed component, these are common matches for cooling and ice issues on this model:

Symptom Likely area Example part for MBB2256GES
Fresh food warm, freezer OK Evaporator airflow Evaporator motor WPW10128551
Fan noise, weak airflow Fan blade damage Refrigerator evaporator fan blade WP2169142
No ice or intermittent ice Ice maker system Refrigerator ice maker D7824706Q
Why it matters

Cooling and ice maker problems often start small (restricted airflow, dirty coils, minor sealing issues) and then lead to longer run times, warmer temps, and food spoilage. Addressing the basics first helps you avoid replacing parts that are still good.

DIY help we recommend

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

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How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

Help your refrigerator run more efficiently by cleaning the condenser coils. It's easy and takes just a few minutes.…

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