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Craftsman 10128910 12" metal turning lathe

Craftsman 10128910 12" metal turning lathe Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Craftsman 10128910 12" metal turning lathe, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 10128910 Power Tools

  • Lathe Bushing for Craftsman 10128910 - Part L3-109

    Lathe Bushing

    Part #L3-109

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Bearing for Craftsman 10128910 - Part 046-020

    Underneath drive assembly diagram

    Bearing

    Part #046-020

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Thrst Collar for Craftsman 10128910 - Part 10A-89

    Headstock and spindle assembly diagram

    Thrst Collar

    Part #10A-89

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Set Collar for Craftsman 10128910 - Part 10-253

    Headstock and spindle assembly diagram

    Set Collar

    Part #10-253

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Bracket for Craftsman 10128910 - Part 041-130

    Guard assembly diagram

    Bracket

    Part #041-130

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Lathe Plunger for Craftsman 10128910 - Part 10-1231

    Lathe Plunger

    Part #10-1231

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Lathe Cross Feed Nut for Craftsman 10128910 - Part 537-041

    Tool post, saddle, and compound post assembly diagram

    Lathe Cross Feed Nut

    Part #537-041

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Anchor Stud for Craftsman 10128910 - Part 9-137A

    Tool post, saddle, and compound post assembly diagram

    Anchor Stud

    Part #9-137A

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Lathe Gear, 20-tooth for Craftsman 10128910 - Part 10-1523

    Quick change and lead screw clutch assembly diagram

    Lathe Gear, 20-tooth

    Part #10-1523

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Nut Stud for Craftsman 10128910 - Part 9-66

    Gear case, threading dial, split nut, and apron assembly diagram

    Nut Stud

    Part #9-66

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Craftsman 12" Metal Turning Lathe 10128910 FAQs

On the Craftsman 10128910 12-inch metal turning lathe, the main assemblies you will recognize are the headstock (spindle drive), tailstock (work support), carriage and slides (tool movement), and the bed/ways (alignment). Wood lathes use similar core sections, but the tool rest setup is usually different.

Main lathe parts and what they do
  • Headstock: Houses the spindle and drive components; this is what turns the work.
  • Spindle: The rotating shaft that carries the chuck/faceplate.
  • Chuck or faceplate: Holds the workpiece (chucks grip; faceplates screw on).
  • Tailstock: Slides along the bed to support the free end of the work.
  • Tailstock quill (ram) and center: Extends to apply support pressure.
  • Bed and ways: The long base and precision rails that keep everything aligned.
Tool control parts (metal lathe vs. wood lathe)

On a metal lathe like model 10128910, the cutting tool is clamped and moved with slides; on a wood lathe, you typically guide a handheld chisel on a tool rest.

Area Metal turning lathe (10128910) Wood turning lathe (typical)
Tool support Tool post on compound/cross slide Tool rest and banjo
Feed Handwheels, leadscrew/feed rod Mostly manual tool movement
Workholding Chuck/faceplate/centers Faceplate/chuck/centers
Carriage and feed components (common on metal lathes)
  • Carriage: Moves the cutting tool along the bed.
  • Cross slide: Moves the tool in and out (toward or away from the work).
  • Compound rest: Allows angled cuts and fine adjustments.
  • Tool post: Clamps the cutting tool.
  • Apron: Front of the carriage; contains feed controls on many lathes.
  • Leadscrew and/or feed rod: Drives power feed and threading (varies by design).
Why it matters

Knowing these names helps you identify the right repair area (alignment, workholding, feed, or drive) and speeds up parts lookup for the Craftsman 10128910.

For tips on safely testing switches, cords, and motors during troubleshooting, use how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video.

Last updated: February 2026

A chip pan on a lathe is the tray mounted under the work area that catches metal chips (swarf), small offcuts, and spilled cutting fluid created during turning, facing, drilling, and other operations on your Craftsman 10128910 12" metal turning lathe.

What the chip pan does (and does not do)
  • Collects chips so they do not pile up on the bench, ways, or floor
  • Helps keep cutting oil and coolant contained for easier cleanup
  • Reduces the chance of chips getting dragged into moving parts during routine work
  • Makes it easier to safely dispose of sharp swarf
  • Does not replace guarding; chips can still eject toward the operator
Where you will see it and how it is used

On most bench and cabinet lathes, the chip pan sits directly beneath the bed and carriage travel area. During normal operation, chips fall into the pan; you periodically stop the machine and remove chips with a brush or chip hook (not your hands).

Quick safety and cleanup tips
  • Power off and let the spindle stop before cleaning
  • Use a brush, chip hook, or pliers for stringy chips
  • Avoid compressed air; it can drive chips into bearings and lead screws
  • Wipe down exposed surfaces after cleanup and apply a light protective oil
Why it matters

Chips are sharp and abrasive. Keeping them contained helps protect the lathe’s ways, lead screw, and cross slide from accelerated wear, and it keeps your work area safer and easier to maintain.

Common terms (so you know you are looking at the right part)
Term Also called What it means
Chip pan Swarf tray, drip tray Tray under the lathe that catches chips and fluid
Chips Swarf Metal shavings produced during cutting
Cutting fluid Cutting oil, coolant Fluid used to cool and lubricate the cut

For more general guidance on safe DIY work practices while servicing tools, see are diy appliance repairs safe.

Last updated: February 2026

A good lathe size depends on the largest diameter and length you plan to turn. For most home metalworking, a benchtop lathe in the 10 to 12 inch swing range with roughly 18 to 36 inches between centers is a practical, versatile choice; the Craftsman 10128910 is a 12 inch metal turning lathe.

How to choose the right size for your projects

Use these sizing checkpoints to match the lathe to what you actually make:

  • Swing (diameter capacity): choose a swing that clears your largest workpiece diameter (plus room for chuck jaws).
  • Distance between centers (length capacity): pick a bed length that covers your longest shaft work.
  • Spindle bore: larger bores make bar work easier because stock can pass through the headstock.
  • Motor power and rigidity: heavier cuts and tougher metals need more mass and horsepower.
  • Shop space and power: confirm footprint, bench strength, and available voltage before you commit.
Typical “good size” ranges (home shop)

These ranges cover most hobby and light fabrication work.

Use case Common swing Common between-centers Notes
Small parts, bushings, spacers 7 to 9 in. 10 to 20 in. Compact, limited for long shafts
General home metalworking 10 to 12 in. 18 to 36 in. Best all-around balance
Larger home projects 12 to 14 in. 30 to 40+ in. Needs more space and rigidity
Fit it to the Craftsman 10128910

Because the Craftsman 10128910 is a 12 inch metal turning lathe, it sits in the “general home metalworking” sweet spot. It is a strong choice for:

  • Turning bushings and spacers
  • Facing and boring small to medium parts
  • Light shaft work (within bed length)
  • Threading and general repair fabrication

For model-specific replacement components, use the parts list for this lathe on Sears PartsDirect.

Why it matters

Choosing too small limits diameter and length immediately; choosing too large can mean wasted space, higher tooling cost, and a machine that is harder to power and move. Matching swing, bed length, and rigidity to your real projects saves time and improves accuracy.

Last updated: February 2026

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