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Kenmore 59669872991 18" bottom-mount refrigerator

Kenmore 59669872991 18" bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 59669872991 18" bottom-mount refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 59669872991 Refrigerators

  • Refrigerator Freezer Door Gasket for Kenmore 59669872991 - Part WP12550122Q

    Door assembly diagram

    Refrigerator Door Gasket

    Part #12529022

    Replaced by #WP12550122Q

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  • Refrigerator Water Tubing Clip for Kenmore 59669872991 - Part WPM0114003

    Cabinet back diagram

    Refrigerator Clamp

    Part #M0114003

    Replaced by #WPM0114003

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  • Refrigerator Screw for Kenmore 59669872991 - Part WP489464

    Cabinet back diagram

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #M0219704

    Replaced by #WP489464

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  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Module Cover for Kenmore 59669872991 - Part WPW10289690

    Icemaker assembly diagram

    Refrigerator Cover

    Part #10519806

    Replaced by #WPW10289690

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  • Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Blade for Kenmore 59669872991 - Part W10116797

    Evaporator/freezer controls assembly diagram

    Refrigerator Blade

    Part #10855401

    Replaced by #W10116797

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  • Refrigerator Door Insulation, 2-piece for Kenmore 59669872991 - Part 876370

    Door assembly diagram

    Insulation

    Part #B0523561

    Replaced by #876370

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  • Refrigerator Ice Cube Tray for Kenmore 59669872991 - Part WP841180A

    Door handles and accessories diagram

    Ice Tray Gen

    Part #D7725402

    Replaced by #WP841180A

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  • Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve for Kenmore 59669872991 - Part 12490801

    Cabinet back diagram

    Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve

    Part #12490801

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Fuse Clip for Kenmore 59669872991 - Part WP628379

    Icemaker assembly diagram

    Refrigerator Clip

    Part #10319801

    Replaced by #WP628379

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  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Cube Ejector for Kenmore 59669872991 - Part WP2182124

    Icemaker assembly diagram

    Ice Stripper

    Part #R0183120

    Replaced by #WP2182124

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Kenmore 18" Bottom-Mount Refrigerator 59669872991 FAQs

A bottom-mount refrigerator is better for many households because the fresh-food section sits at eye level, so you reach for everyday items with less bending. For Kenmore model 59669872991, it is also a frost-free design, so normal defrosting is automatic. See the owner's manual for features and setup details.

When a bottom-mount is the better choice

  • You use the refrigerator compartment more than the freezer.
  • You want produce, dairy, and leftovers at a more comfortable height.
  • You prefer wider refrigerator shelves and easier visibility of fresh food.
  • You want automatic defrost (frost-free) convenience.
  • You are OK bending more often to access frozen foods.

Trade-offs to consider

Bottom-mount designs are not “better” for every kitchen. Here are the common pros and cons.

What you care about Bottom-mount refrigerator Top-freezer refrigerator
Fresh-food access Easier (higher) Harder (lower)
Freezer access Lower, more bending Higher, less bending
Organization Often better for fresh food Often simpler overall
Efficiency and noise Varies by model Varies by model

Why installation details matter

Even the best layout will disappoint if the refrigerator is not installed correctly. For this Kenmore bottom-mount style, proper ventilation and leveling help it cool efficiently and keep doors sealing correctly.

  • Allow about 1/2 inch of space above for ventilation.
  • If installed next to a fixed wall, leave about 2 1/2 inches on the hinge side so the door can open 90°.
  • Keep the unit upright for at least 24 hours before plugging it in if it was transported on its side.
  • Do not use an extension cord; use a properly grounded outlet.

Last updated: February 2026

To tell what Kenmore refrigerator model you have, locate the model and serial tag inside the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment. For Kenmore model 59669872991, the Use & Care Guide notes the serial plate is on the top left wall of the refrigerator compartment; match that number to your parts list and owner's manual.

Where to look for the model number tag

Check these common spots first (in order):

  • Top left wall inside the refrigerator compartment (common on this Kenmore style)
  • Side wall near the crisper drawers
  • Ceiling area inside the fresh food compartment
  • Behind or under a crisper drawer (you may need to slide the drawer out)
  • Near the door hinge area (less common, but possible)

What the model number looks like (and why it matters)

Kenmore model numbers are usually a long number with a 3-digit prefix (often shown as 596. followed by more digits). That full model number is what we use to pull the correct diagrams and refrigerator parts.

Quick guide

What you have What it tells us What to do next
Model number (example: 596.XXXXXXX) Exact design and compatible parts Use it to search parts by model
Serial number Production sequence and date coding Keep it for service records
Purchase date Helps with maintenance planning Record it with your paperwork

Tips to read and record it correctly

  • Write the model number exactly as printed, including any prefix like 596.
  • Take a clear photo of the tag before ordering parts
  • If the label is worn, use a flashlight and read it at an angle
  • Record both model and serial numbers together for future repairs

Why it matters

Kenmore refrigerators can look similar across multiple model families, but shelves, door bins, ice maker parts, and control components can differ. Using the exact model number prevents ordering the wrong replacement part and speeds up troubleshooting.

Last updated: February 2026

The most common problems we see on Kenmore refrigerators like model 59669872991 are cooling complaints (too warm or too cold), water or moisture buildup, ice maker issues (some models), and unusual noises. Many of these trace back to control settings, dirty condenser coils, door gasket sealing, or normal operating sounds described in the owner's manual.

Most common symptoms and what usually causes them

  • Not cooling or not running: power issue, control set to Off, or the unit is in a defrost cycle
  • Food too warm: doors opened often, warm food load, dirty condenser coils, or controls set too warm
  • Food too cold: controls set too cold, airflow issues, or drawer/vent settings (if equipped)
  • Moisture or water droplets: high humidity, frequent door openings, or door seals not sealing tightly
  • Ice maker problems (some models): shutoff arm Off position, water supply/valve issues, or inlet tube icing
  • Noises: fan airflow, refrigerant gurgle, defrost heater sizzling, timer “clock” sound, compressor hum

Quick checks we recommend first (in order)

  1. Confirm the refrigerator is plugged into a working outlet; check the breaker or fuse.
  2. Verify the freezer control is turned on and set to a mid-range setting.
  3. Wait 40 minutes if it just stopped; it may be in a normal defrost cycle.
  4. Clean the condenser coils and make sure airflow around the cabinet is not blocked.
  5. Inspect door gaskets for a tight seal all the way around.

Symptom-to-fix cheat sheet

Symptom Most likely quick fix What to check next
Refrigerator won’t run Verify power and controls Defrost cycle timing, wiring, start components
Too warm Adjust controls, allow time to stabilize Clean condenser coils, check gasket seal
Moisture inside Reduce door openings, wrap foods Check gasket seal and container moisture
Loud/unfamiliar sounds Identify normal operating noises Fan obstructions, leveling, loose items

Why it matters

Catching the basics early (controls, coils, gasket seal, and normal defrost behavior) prevents food temperature swings, reduces run time, and helps you avoid replacing parts that are still working normally.

Last updated: February 2026

In a Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator like model 59669872991, the “bottom compartment” most often refers to the freezer compartment (the drawer or door section at the bottom where frozen food is stored). Some people also use “bottom compartment” to mean the lower fresh-food drawers (crisper or meat drawer) inside the refrigerator section.

Common names you might hear

  • Freezer compartment: the bottom section in a bottom-mount design
  • Freezer drawer: if it slides out on rails
  • Crisper drawer: lower refrigerator drawer for produce with humidity control
  • Meat drawer (temperature-controlled drawer on some models): a colder drawer in the fresh-food section
  • Machine compartment: the lower rear area where the compressor and condenser components sit (not a food-storage compartment)

Quick identification guide

Use this to match the term to what you are looking at:

What you mean by “bottom compartment” What it’s usually called What it’s for
Bottom drawer/door that holds frozen food Freezer compartment / freezer drawer Frozen food storage
Bottom drawers inside the refrigerator section Crisper drawer Produce storage with humidity control
Colder drawer inside refrigerator section (some models) Meat drawer / temperature-controlled drawer Deli meats, cheeses, quick-chill items
Lower back area behind a cover panel Machine compartment Cooling system components

Why the wording matters

When you are looking up parts or following troubleshooting steps, “freezer,” “crisper,” and “meat drawer” refer to different areas with different components (slides, bins, controls, and airflow paths). The owner's manual for model 59669872991 uses these feature names so you can match the correct section.

Helpful tip for parts lookup

  • If the issue is ice buildup or warm temps, start with the freezer compartment and airflow.
  • If the issue is produce freezing or drying out, focus on the crisper drawer humidity control.
  • If the issue is items freezing in a fresh-food drawer, check whether your unit has a temperature-controlled meat drawer setting.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

Most common repair guides to help fix your refrigerators

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your refrigerator.

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

If the temperature in your refrigerator doesn't match the temperature you set, the problem could be the temperature cont…

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How to replace a refrigerator water valve

How to replace a refrigerator water valve

Replace the water valve that feeds water to the ice maker and water dispenser if it no longer controls the flow of water…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

Help your refrigerator run more efficiently by cleaning the condenser coils. It's easy and takes just a few minutes.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

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Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your refrigerator.

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