Kenmore 79575004401 bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

The Kenmore 79575004401 is typically listed as a 30.6 cu. ft. refrigerator. For the exact capacity for your specific configuration and any variations by color code, we recommend confirming the specification in the owner's manual.

How to confirm the capacity on your exact unit

Capacity can vary slightly across closely related 795.7500 series versions. The most reliable way to confirm is to match your model and series details.

• Check the model tag inside the fresh food compartment (usually on a side wall).
• Match the full model number: 79575004401.
• Review the specifications section in the manual.
• If your refrigerator has a dispenser or ice maker, note that some configurations can affect usable space.
• Compare shelf and bin layout to the “Parts and Features” section.

Why the cubic feet number matters

Knowing the cubic feet helps when you are planning kitchen fit, comparing storage space, or choosing accessories such as bins and shelves for your Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator.

Quick reference

Item	What to use	Why
Published capacity	30.6 cu. ft.	Common listing for this model family
Best confirmation source	Owner documentation	Matches your exact configuration
Model family	Kenmore 795 bottom-freezer	Helps narrow down correct specs

Last updated: February 2026

If your Kenmore 79575004401 bottom-mount refrigerator is warm and the compressor repeatedly clicks, runs only briefly, or never starts (while fans may still run), the compressor start circuit or the compressor itself is failing. First rule out normal operating sounds and simple power or control issues in the owner's manual.

Quick checks before blaming the compressor

Many “bad compressor” symptoms are caused by power, controls, airflow, or a failed start device.

• Confirm the refrigerator has power (outlet works, breaker not tripped).
• Make sure the temperature control is not set to OFF.
• Listen for normal clicks and cycling; modern compressors can run longer and sound different.
• Check that doors close and seal well; warm air leaks force long run times.
• Verify airflow is not blocked inside (packed shelves can restrict circulation).
• Clean dust from condenser coils; dirty coils raise pressures and reduce cooling.

What “normal” sounds vs. “problem” sounds mean

The manual notes that clicking (defrost timer/thermostat), gurgling (refrigerant movement), sizzling (defrost water on heater), and fan airflow can be normal. Use this table to separate normal operation from likely failure.

What you notice	Most likely meaning	What to do next
Single click, then steady running	Normal cycling	Monitor temps for 24 hours
Repeated click every few minutes, no sustained running	Start device/overload tripping or compressor locked	Test start components; consider replacing start device
Compressor runs but fridge still warm	Airflow/defrost/condenser issue or sealed system problem	Check coils, fans, frost buildup
Loud buzzing/humming then click-off	Compressor struggling to start	Stop using extension cords; check start device

Parts that commonly mimic a bad compressor

On this model, a failed start device is a common “compressor won’t start” cause. If the compressor clicks off and on, inspect and replace the start device first.

• Ptc asm 6749c-0014e (compressor start device)

Why it matters

A compressor that cannot start or cannot pump refrigerant will leave both compartments warm and can cause long run times, higher energy use, and food spoilage. Confirming the difference between normal cycling sounds and repeated start failures prevents unnecessary sealed-system work.

Last updated: February 2026

Common issues on the Kenmore 79575004401 bottom-mount refrigerator include warm temperatures from airflow or control settings, frost buildup from doors not sealing, water in the defrost drain pan during defrost, icemaker slow production, and normal operating noises or vibration from leveling. Use the owner's manual troubleshooting charts to match symptoms to the right fix.

Most common symptoms and what usually causes them

• Refrigerator or freezer too warm: doors opened often, vents blocked by food, large warm loads, or controls set too warm
• Freezer too warm and ice production is slow: frequent door openings, heavy ice use, blocked air vents, or not enough time after hookup
• Frost or ice crystals on frozen food: door not closing fully or door opened often
• Water in the defrost drain pan: normal during defrost; evaporation can be slower in humid conditions
• Noise, vibration, or rattling: cabinet not level, weak floor, or leveling legs need adjustment

Quick checks we recommend first (no parts needed)

1. Check door closure and bin positions: make sure shelves, pans, and door bins are fully seated and not holding the door open.
2. Clear airflow: keep packages from blocking interior vents.
3. Adjust temperatures correctly: adjust the refrigerator control first, then wait 24 hours before making another change; adjust the freezer after the refrigerator is stable.
4. Level the refrigerator: wobble and vibration often stop after proper leveling.
5. If the door is hard to open: wait about 5 minutes after closing; pressure equalization is normal.

When a part is commonly involved

If basic checks do not resolve the symptom, these parts are common suspects on this model:

Symptom	Common part to check	Example part on this model
Interior light issues or fans behave oddly with door open/closed	Door switch	Refrigerator door push-button switch 6600JB1010A
Temperature swings or inconsistent cooling	Temperature sensor/thermistor	Refrigerator thermistor 6500JB2002T or refrigerator sensor 6500JB2001B
Frost patterns or defrost-related cooling loss	Defrost sensor assembly	Refrigerator defrost sensor assembly 6615JB2005C
Door not sealing, frost, moisture	Door gasket	Refrigerator gasket assembly ADX73350922

Why it matters

Most “not cooling” complaints are actually airflow, door sealing, or control-setting issues. Fixing those first prevents food spoilage, reduces frost, and helps the icemaker keep up.

Last updated: February 2026

Water under your Kenmore 79575004401 bottom-mount refrigerator is typically caused by a clogged or frozen defrost drain that overflows during defrost, or a slow leak from the ice maker or dispenser water line that runs down the cabinet to the floor.

Quick checks (start here)

• Unplug the refrigerator before removing panels or working near wiring.
• Look for ice or standing water on the freezer floor; this points to a defrost drain backup.
• Pull the refrigerator out and trace any drip trail upward from the floor.
• Check the drain pan underneath; some water during defrost is normal.
• If the unit has a water hookup, inspect the supply line, fittings, and valve area for seepage.

Most common cause: clogged or frozen defrost drain

During defrost, water should flow through the drain to the drain pan and evaporate. When the drain is blocked, water backs up, refreezes, and eventually leaks out underneath.

What to do

• Remove freezer items as needed to reach the drain area.
• Melt ice with warm water (not boiling).
• Clear the drain with a pipe cleaner or flexible plastic tubing.
• Flush with warm water until it drains freely to the pan.

Water line or valve seep (ice maker or dispenser models)

A small leak at a fitting can drip down the rear cabinet and collect under the refrigerator.

Helpful model-matched parts to consider:

• Refrigerator water tubing 5210JA3005W
• Refrigerator water inlet valve 5220JA2009D

Normal vs. not normal

What you see	Most likely cause	What to do
Water only in drain pan	Defrost water	Normal; monitor
Ice on freezer floor plus leak	Defrost drain clogged/frozen	Clear and flush drain
Drips from back near water line	Tubing/valve/fitting leak	Tighten or replace leaking part

Why it matters

Leaks can damage flooring and repeated drain backups can create ice buildup that restricts airflow and hurts cooling.

For model-specific access steps and diagrams, use the owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026